Visual Differences - Buffing or Not

[Matt Hutchinson]

Ok, so I know a ton of you all use some type of buffing system. I was wondering if some of you could show me a pic of a hand buffed/waxed vs. a power buffed piece. What type of wax do you use, and how do you apply it/polish it?

Also, of the three buffing compounds used for power buffing, could you recommend when not to use a particular step? Which of these woods should I NOT use a certain step for?

Sassafrass
Maple
Walnut
Cherry
Birch
Box Elder
Maple Burl
Wormy Wood/wood with voids

I haven't purchased a buffing system yet, but I may run out and get one in the next couple days. I'm trying to decide if I should bother, cuz I am really low on money. Thanks.

Hutch

[Darryl Hansen]

Matt it is not only the look but the feel that of the piece that is different. The first thing many of the individuals who have purchased my stuff say is :gee how do you get it so soft" . No kidding Carnuba wax is the hardest wax. When I use lacquer for a finish I usually start the buffing with White diamond compound then finish with wax. Make certain you get wheels for each of the compounds you decide to use don't mix them. Oh I have buffed most of the woods you mention.

[Bob Hallowell]

Hutch I use all three wheels for everything I just don't always apply fresh WD to the wheel when buffing woods like walnut and cocolobo. I creates a great shine I mostly use antquie oil and some laquer on my mills. But as was mentioned the feel of the peice is incredible, just begs to be touched.

Bob

[Steve Schlumpf]

Matt - I agree with what has already been stated - it is the feel of the piece that changes and becomes 'soft'. Example - take any of your finished pieces and lightly touch the surface. If you used a poly or lacquer you will feel very slight bumps on the surface. Using a buffing system removes those small bumps and polishes the surface such that it not only looks great - more importantly - it feels great!

About the only thing to be aware of when buffing with the different compunds is that the white diamond will fill in the voids on any open pore wood - such as walnut. It will also fill in any gaps on everything else - just something to be aware of.

While a buffing system is great to have and use - I used to use pieces of brown paper grocery bags to hand rub things out. Takes a lot of elbow grease and you only have to spend a few hours rubbing things out before you appreciate a buffing system that works on your lathe!!!

Matt - my wife just had a great idea! She suggested that you have a buffing demo at your Woodcraft store! Take your bowls with you and explain the process of buffing to the customers!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Matt you got a lot of good advice. The one thing you have to be careful of is like dark open pored woods don't use the white diamond on those. I use the carnuba wax but lately have started using renaissance wax. I find it doesn't show finger prints as much and doesn't spot like carnuba will if you get water spots on it.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks all.

Okay, so I was reading on the Beall description that the 3rd wheel is for carnauba wax and produces a high shine. I really don't want glossy. I am looking for something in between satin and glossy. Do you think I could just use furniture wax and buff it with the 3rd wheel? How big of a scratch will the tripoli get out?

Also, I have several pieces with voids in them. I won't use the WD, but will the tripoli still be visible in these opening? Can it be removed with a toothbrush? Thanks again!

Hutch

[Bruce Pennell]

Matt I just picked up Don Pencils bowl buff's both sizes they are inexpensive. I like it for bowls and HF better then my beal system. Just my 2cents....Bruce

[Bob Hallowell]

Hutch

tripoli- semigloss
white diamonds- gloss
wax- high gloss

Bob

[Mike Minto]

Matt, can't comment on when to use / not to use a buffing system, but I built my own and saved big bucks - works well enough for me. I had a morse taper drill chuck for the headstock, so bought a bar of 'all-thread', and used my grinder to make one end small enough to fit the chuck. On the other end, I drilled a dimple for a cheap live center to fit into on the tailstock end, and then with Harbor Freight buffing wheels and compound, I think I spent about $35 for the whole thing. Mike

[Richard Madison]

Matt,
Guess I missed it if you mentioned what type finish, but maybe does not matter. An alternative to all the buffing stuff for a "sorta glossy" finish: build enough of whatever finishing material to seal the wood and provide a little thickness to work with. Starting with 400 or even 600, wet sand through 4000. Dry and study. If not glossy enough, continue wet sanding through 12000 if necessary. Something to try anyway.

Also there is a tutorial out there on making your own buffing wheels, and surely someone here will know where to find it.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, I decided to go with the easy route, so I bought a Beall system this afternoon. I have a lot on my plate right now, or else I might have tried to make my own. Thanks for all the info.

I don't have an extra motor lying around, and my lathe doesn't have a morse taper in the shaft. So I made a rig this evening to hold the buffing mandel. I will post pics as soon as I can find the battery charger. :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the help!

Hutch

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Matt,

I couldn't believe the difference buffing made in the finish on my turnings. It's worth the money IMHO.