Mortising - Machine (Laguna, Powermatic), or Jig (mortise pal), or????

[Don Brubaker]

Want to do mortising and having something essentially dedicated for this purpose. My leaning is toward a mortising machine which I've narrowed to the Laguna Hollow Chisel Mortiser with Stand ($695 model), Powermatic PM701 ($425 model) .... or possibly PM's model similar to Laguna's, but around $1100.
The other choice I am starting to be interested in is the "Mortise Pal" with a dedicated router; however, I like the idea of square mortises as well as having a station that is square and can be set up for repeatability in combination with a well powered motor / cutter.
It won't be for production mortising, but I do plan on doing a fair amount, mostly small to medium size furniture and woodworking in soft to very hard woods.
Would love to hear comments on any of the machines I've narrowed to, the mortise pal, or other perhaps better choices I have not considered.
The Laguna seems to be a very nice choice for the price and quality and meet most of my needs.

[Jason Whelehon]

Steel City's mortising machine is a SOLID offer. Sitting next to a powermatic, they're similar in design. And MUCH less expensive around $290 (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20302).

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=3&tool=25200

[Don Brubaker]

Steel City's mortising machine is a SOLID offer. Sitting next to a powermatic, they're similar in design. And MUCH less expensive around $290 (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20302).

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=3&tool=25200
Looked at Steel City and is lacking in several areas - power, weight of machine, adjustment mechanism, limit of 1/2" mortise (PM is 3/4, Laguna 1"), and also some lesser max's on the material and depth of cuts. Yes, about $100 less than PM, $300+ less than Laguna, but .......

[mreza Salav]

General International gets good reviews for its mortising machines. I have heard only from satisfied customers of them.

[Frank Drew]

Don

I've made mortises with machine methods and by hand, and IMO nothing beats slot mortising, either with a dedicated slot mortiser or a router set up. Before I got my machine I used a fairly simple router jig Tage Frid detailed in Fine Woodworking years ago and had great results with it.

The round ends of the mortises aren't a problem since rounding over the ends of the tenon is simple and quick (and faster than chopping the ends of the mortise square.)

[Chris Knudsen]

I would definately reccomend the General International. It is available as a standard model or with a tilting head option. Having sold and gotten feedback on all of these brands in the past, this has by far has given me the most satisfied customers.

[Mike Henderson]

Don

I've made mortises with machine methods and by hand, and IMO nothing beats slot mortising, either with a dedicated slot mortiser or a router set up. Before I got my machine I used a fairly simple router jig Tage Frid detailed in Fine Woodworking years ago and had great results with it.

The round ends of the mortises aren't a problem since rounding over the ends of the tenon is simple and quick (and faster than chopping the ends of the mortise square.)
I absolutely agree with Frank. Nothing beats a horizontal slot mortiser for making mortises.

But that's only if you're going to do a lot of M&T or you have a lot of money. If you're only going to do M&T on an irregular basis, and not many of them, just drill out the mortise on your drill press and clean up with a chisel.

But to make them with a dedicated power tool, nothing is as good as a slot mortiser.

Mike

[Chris Knudsen]

Mike and Frank are correct regarding the quailty of horizontal mortisers providing better cut quality. Another product to look at would be the Multi-Router from JDS. I have heard that it does an excellent job as a small slot mortiser as well as a pretty versatile horizontal router.

[Don Brubaker]

Mike and Frank are correct regarding the quailty of horizontal mortisers providing better cut quality. Another product to look at would be the Multi-Router from JDS. I have heard that it does an excellent job as a small slot mortiser as well as a pretty versatile horizontal router.
Why better cut quality on a horizontal mortiser? Laguna does have a fairly nice one for $995, but seems like that is more than I need, though perhaps more versatile than a vertical dedicated mortiser. I really like the looks, and operation of the Laguna $695 model. It appears that there is a Steelex / Shop Fox "knock off" (ST1005 - virtually identical to the Laguna) ..... or maybe it's Laguna that did the copying?

[pat warner]

What about a plunge router (http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html)?

[Rick Fisher]

I have a dedicated 1hp mortiser. I bought it because it has the built in X-Y vice. I upgraded from a benchtop, which I found cumbersome.

The ability to turn the hand wheels to make adjustments is a great feature.

If I had to do any volume, I woudl have bought a slot mortiser. Laguna has one for $1000.00, which seems to be good bang for the buck. I think the Hammer is twice the price and the Felder is 4 x the price.

Im sure you get what you pay for.

I have been looking at a jointer that comes with a slot mortiser, I fear I my newer mortiser will collect dust.

[Charles Lent]

I've owned several different square chisel type morticing tools, a drill press morticing attachment, and the associated set of the square bits, but found that the quality and accuracy of the mortices that they made to be far from acceptable for me. The morticing chisels always leave rough cuts that require manual cleanup with chisels, which resulted in the need to manually fit each tenon/mortice pair to achieve the needed joint fit. This manual adjustment of each joint was way too inaccurate and time consuming for me.

I've since switched to making all of my mortices with a plunge router. The cheapest and quickest way to make good clean sided mortices is to use a plunge router with a spiral bit and a jig to make matching mortices in both pieces, then assemble with floating tenons that are made to fit. Making the tenon stock can easily be done on a table saw, since it's thickness only needs to match the router bit diameter that was used to make the mortice to achieve a good fit. It's quick, giving you a clean precise fitting joint very easily and repeatably. You can round the ends or leave them square and it won't really matter. A mortice pal would make a good jig for this, if you wanted to buy instead of build, but it's easy to make a mortice jig for yourself. If you've got money you should also consider the Leigh FMT jig, as it will allow you to easily make mortices for floating tenons, or matching mortices and (perfect fitting) matching tenons very easily, but it costs quite a bit more than the Mortice Pal.


Getting a mortice and tenon joint that is strong requires some precision. The part of a tenon fit that creates most of the strength in the joint is the wide flat sides of the tenon and the matching sides of the mortice and not so much from the ends. The sides of the tenons should be a close dry slip fit in the mortices to make good glue bond and a quality joint. The ends offer significantly less strength, so a square ended tenon in a round ended mortice will work OK if the sides fit correctly, saving you time and leaving the rounded end of the mortices open to hold any glue squeeze-out. You will still have a strong joint even though the tenon doesn't conform to the end of the mortice.


Charley

[mreza Salav]

speaking of using routers for mortising:
I have built a simple yet very accurate jig for this purpose (based different plans available). Using a spiral bit it works great.
Note that you don't have to worry about the mortise be dead center, as long as you don't change the position of the guides and use the same setting on the two pieces (that receive the floating tenon).
948259482694827

[Frank Drew]

What about a plunge router (http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html)?

The plunge router is a great tool for this; the jig in your link looks quite efficient and is pretty fancy; I used this very simple one:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=29

[Matt Hutchinson]

I haven't used either very much, but I will give you some things I have heard/experienced.

Mortiser:
My dad bought a Delta mortiser quite a while ago. The bits were never tuned up properly, and it was a challenge to get accurate cuts. You will have to sharpen the bits/chisels. But more importantly, even though a mortiser says it can make 3/4" mortises, keep in mind they aren't always designed for it. It's very difficult to push 3" worth of chisel edge through wood, even if it's sharp! This requires so much force, and a MUCH longer lever arm than what comes with a machine may be needed. (Some of this opinion is based on a friend's experience.)

Router:
I have only used a router for mortises once, and this was a while ago. (I haven't had access to a shop for a while.) Even with never having done it before I got perfect results. The tenons fit into the mortises with a friction fit, and I was very proud of the result. When I do mortises again (after my shop is set up), I will definitely be using a router to make them.

If I were doing a ton of mortising, then I might want a dedicated machine. Even so, I really like the fit created by routers, and might prefer to set up a dedicated router station.

Hutch

[Scott Rollins]

I use my woodrat from Chipsfly.com. It is a 3 axis mill if you have never seen one. It does mortices, tenons, dovetails. Too bad it doesn't clean up afterwards.

[Roger Lance]

When I made a king size mission style bed with nearly 200 M&T joints, I used a PM 719A (the model before the tilting table). Piece of cake. Thats a tool. IMHO, I don't think I could have done it with a plunge router (which I do use in some cases) and gotten the presision required for all those spindals to aligne. World of diference over a bench top mortiser,.I've never used a horizontal slot mortiser, so no comment there.

[Frank Drew]

If I were doing a ton of mortising, then I might want a dedicated machine. Even so, I really like the fit created by routers, and might prefer to set up a dedicated router station.

Same thing, really, a router cut mortise and a slot mortiser cut mortise, but with the latter having the advantage in power, flexibility, and speed of setup. You can get very inventive with a slot mortiser in ways that would be difficult to replicate with a router (doing some kinds of light milling work in metal, for instance). Cutting end mortises in rails for loose tenons is much, much easier with slot mortisers.

But for a small investment in time and money, a plunge router, a jig, and a few end mills will have you cutting precise mortises like a champ.

[Dave Tinley]

Don-
Since I am in the same quandry as you, I will share my thoughts.
I had a bench top vertical mortiser, sharpened the chisels, put on a xyz vise, but was never very happy with the cut. Sold it.
Right now I use my router table and sometimes a plunge router.
I have been looking at the horizontal mortisers and there are some decent ones out there. MLCS has one that you add a router to and it gets decent reviews. Plus you can do raised panels and moldings with it.
Grizzly has a slot mortiser, but I have not seen any reviews. Then there are the Luguna and other high dollar models. Its hard for me to justify that much money for a tool that I may use 20-25 percent of the time. To me thats cash flow that can be used for more lumber.:D

There are some people who have home made slot moticers, and that may be an answer. PM me if you are looking at the Morticing Pal, tho.

Keep us informed.
Thanks
Dave

[Greg Hines, MD]

speaking of using routers for mortising:
I have built a simple yet very accurate jig for this purpose (based different plans available). Using a spiral bit it works great.
Note that you don't have to worry about the mortise be dead center, as long as you don't change the position of the guides and use the same setting on the two pieces (that receive the floating tenon).
948259482694827



I have the same jig for my router, and it works great. Thick or thin stock can easily be handled, and offset mortises are a cinch.

Doc

[Neal Clayton]

i use a router too, have the leigh jig.

i've also used the grizzly ~900 dollar (don't remember the number) standalone mortiser, my stepbrother has one.

i like the router since it's one tool rather than the mortiser and the table saw, and therefore less room for error.
that said, both are equally accurate, but the benchtop machines are not from my experience.

i'm of the opinion that if i pay for a dedicated tool to make mortises it should not require any manual effort with hand tools on my part to make them fit.