attaching glass to door frames

[Stephen Sebed]

I am making oak doors with glass panels for a set of bookcases that I made. If I route a lip on the back of the door for the glass to sit in, How would you attach the glass to the frame? Also, what size of lip should I make?

Thanks,
Stephen

[Dan Mages]

My grandfather taught me how to glaze windows, and that would be my first temptation. Another method to do the windows will be to cut thin wood slats that you would tack to the door frame.

Dan

[Wes Bischel]

Stephen,
There are many ways to install glass in doors. Just remember the doors move more than the glass so some "give" is necessary. This is not to say the glass should be loose, just that there needs to be room for the door to grow and more importantly shrink. Typically the thin strip method Dan mentioned is what I've used - pushing the brads in versus using a hammer. Freud actually has a router bit set that makes the strip from the same piece of wood as the doors - saving some of the wood typically milled away.

Here are a few links to some parts you can also use for glass each with their own pros and cons.

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=2203&cs=1

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=2277

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=2278

I'm sure they are available from other sources, Rockler just happens to be the one I'm familiar with.
Good luck,
Wes

[David Klug]

Stephen, when I built the trophy case routed a small cove on all 4 edges of a board and then cut them off so they were about 3/8 in wide. Then I just 45 degreed the corners and attached them with small brass screws. I looked pretty nice when I got It finished.

DK

[Jim Becker]

As someone stated, there are a lot of ways to fasten glass in a cabinet door. I favor small moldings that give a completely finished look. I attach them with pin-nails (with a pneumatic pinner) so that they are easily removed should the glass need "attention" at some point in the future. By pre-finishing the moldings and carefully mitering the corners, they make both sides of the doors pleasant to look at.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I just finished a set of glass panel doors and used the thin strip method...attached with pinners....very easy to do.

[Bruce Page]

Ditto what Wes & Jim said. I route ¼ rounds from the parent wood to hold in glass panels. It gives a very nice & finished look.

[Walt Pater]

Stephen,
If you don't want the glass to rattle when the doors open (something that drives me up a wall) you should run a thin, thin bead of Lexel clear caulk around the inside of the R&S's where they meet the glass, then install your choice of molding around the frame, fitting one of the longer sections last. I recommend Lexel by name as it remains more clear than clear silicones, and remains flexible. Good luck.

[Todd Burch]

Stephen,

There are various style clips you can purchase, but in my opinion, they all look like the furniture maker/manufacturer was in a hurry, and give the piece a "less than quality" look. Cheap clips on cheap furniture - fine. On nice furniture, do it nice. My vote is for the wood moulding strips referred to above.

Todd

[Scott Coffelt]

Iuse several methods. Glass clips are most often used. I also have been using a thin bead of silicon and actully like this much better as the glass does not rattle. If done right, if you need to remove simply take a razor blade to score the bead and remove the glass. Nothing is more annoying then glass rattling in a door frame. I also removes the chance of tightening the clips too much, I have cracked a few panes in my time.

[Steve Jenkins]

I usually use the wood strip method but have occasionally put the glass in as I assembled the door.Of course it then needs to masked off for finishing the door.
I've almost never seen the glass get broken in a cabinet door and if it should need to be replaced you simply rout off the back of the groove and use a strip to fasten in the new piece. Steve

[Lee Schierer]

I've used the Rockler vinyl strips for securing glass in frames on a china cabinet and was very satisfied with the results. I used the groove type instead of the staple in type. The groove type holds the glass securely and does not rattle. It will allow glass replacement should the glass get broken.

I've also secured glass in frames with thin strips held in place with small screws. This method also allows ease of replacement. I use # 2 sized brass screws which are not that easy to find. I don't get rattles with this method either.

Pounding in nails by hand into thin strips can be hazardous to the glass.

Once caution when mounting your glass. Make sure your frame is flat and has no raised bumps on the inside. Glass detests being bent. DAMHIKT.