Good pics and ideas for mounting a router w/ a table saw...

[Michael Donahue]

Hey all. I have a Ridgid TS3650 with plenty of space on the right to add a router table. I was thinking maybe using phenolic faced plywood and a Rockler aluminum plate.; I'd like some ideas and tips though about setups and what not. I like the idea of being able to use the stock fence, but I'd need to build it up some, maybe with a T-track and some spacers so I can use big bits without chewing it up.

What do you think about the phenolic ply for the top? What about melamine or some particle board with a formica top? Have you had any experience with the Rockler plates? Are they reasonably flat and can you adjust them to be level with the table surface?

Any pics/tips/info is appreciated!

[scott spencer]

I've had a 9/8" pressboard/formica top in my saw for over 3 years now and it's been fine. I have a phenolic router plate from Hartville that I've been happy with....it's stiff and has 6 adjustment screws in it. Aluminum should be stronger yet. I built a roll away cabinet underneath for storage and improved dust collection. The fence is shop-built and bolts on and off the router table with thumb screws.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/1b84239e.jpg

[Michael Donahue]

Very cool! You don't miss a T-track or miter track on the table though?

[scott spencer]

Very cool! You don't miss a T-track or miter track on the table though?

Absolutely! The pics were taken before the miter slot was added but it's there now! ;)

[Michael Donahue]

Absolutely! The pics were taken before the miter slot was added but it's there now! ;)

I just can't figure out how the miter slot works with the rails for the fence in the way. Wouldn't the bar on your miter gauge or jig hit the rail and stop it dead in its tracks? Or is it far enough past the bit that this happens so that it's not really an issue?

[scott spencer]

The miter slot rides above the rails. This is no longer my saw, but I kept the router table and the rail system is about identical to what's shown. This pic should help:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/000_0252.jpg

[glenn bradley]

I put mine on the left side as that works in my particular shop. This not only keps it away from my TS fence but allows me to use the same outfeed as the TS, same feed direction and all that. Now my jointer feeds the other direction so, go figger?

[Mike Schmalzer]

I have the same saw as my backup. I just made a custom fit table and used a Rousseau router plate. The top is 3/4" Ply with some scrap laminate I had around the shop and trimmed in mesquite. I just made some brackets out of 1/16" angle aluminum and fastened them to the rails using 1/2" bolts and some square nuts that slide into the notch on the rails. Sorry about the pic, it is from the phone. I can try and get some shots of the brackets tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Mike

[John Gregory]

I have a Ridgid TS2424 that I installed a Bies fence and my router in the right wing.

Here are the posts about it.
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=79000

I made a "Norm" fence. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=83773 I just couldn't find a good way to use my Bies for the router. I like having two fences because I can have both set up unless I need to rip big sheets. The part I like best is the dust collection for the router. It works great.

[Jon Todd]

I screwed 2 pieces of MDF together and then cut them to the size I wanted laminated them with Formica and I use the Woodpecker Precision router lift with the PC 7518. I need to build a good fence. Alot of times I use a piece of 3x3 Poplar that has been run on the jointer on all 4 sides and usually its bit specific so its a kind of zero clearance. Not exact but really close. It works good for now. I have 4-5 different fences around. Here are some pictures of mine.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1295/Router_table3.jpg


http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1295/Router_table_2_.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1295/Router_table_1_.jpg

[Ken Massingale]

I used aluminum angle to mount the Woodpecker custom table. The angle mounts to the rails and rabbits on the underside of the table:

http://scwoodworker.net/images/3650_small.jpg

[Ben Martin]

I used aluminum angle to mount the Woodpecker custom table. The angle mounts to the rails and rabbits on the underside of the table:


Ken,

Is there any way that you can post a picture showing the underside mounting? I also have a TS3650. Another question, why is you miter slot on the "inside", closer to the blade?

[scott spencer]

I screwed 2 pieces of MDF together and then cut them to the size I wanted laminated them with Formica and I use the Woodpecker Precision router lift with the PC 7518. I need to build a good fence. Alot of times I use a piece of 3x3 Poplar that has been run on the jointer on all 4 sides and usually its bit specific so its a kind of zero clearance. Not exact but really close. It works good for now. I have 4-5 different fences around. Here are some pictures of mine.



That's a really slick set up Jon. My new saw requires some changes to my outfeed, storage, and likely RT while I'm at it. If you don't mind, I might borrow some of your ideas.

[Jon Todd]

Cool. If you need any further info let me know. I can move my saw around if I need to the entire setup is on Casters. Let me know if You need any help

[Jason White]

I have the TS3650 and bought the Bench Dog cast-iron router table that bolts onto the left of the saw in place of the stock extension wing. Best damned router table I've used and it takes up no space at all. I just wish the dust-collection was better. There's a vac-port on top, but nothing to catch saw-dust on the bottom. When I ditch the RIDGID in favor of a cabinet saw, I'll save the router table and put it on the cab-saw.

Here's the top...

http://www.benchdog.com/promax.cfm

JW


Hey all. I have a Ridgid TS3650 with plenty of space on the right to add a router table. I was thinking maybe using phenolic faced plywood and a Rockler aluminum plate.; I'd like some ideas and tips though about setups and what not. I like the idea of being able to use the stock fence, but I'd need to build it up some, maybe with a T-track and some spacers so I can use big bits without chewing it up.

What do you think about the phenolic ply for the top? What about melamine or some particle board with a formica top? Have you had any experience with the Rockler plates? Are they reasonably flat and can you adjust them to be level with the table surface?

Any pics/tips/info is appreciated!

[Jason White]

Same here. I've never understood why people put the router table on the right side instead of the left, especially if they have an outfeed table. When you run stock through a router table, you run the stock from right to left (unless you're climb-cutting). That being the case, you'd be better off with the router table mounted on the left side of the saw. Just my $.02.

JW


I put mine on the left side as that works in my particular shop. This not only keps it away from my TS fence but allows me to use the same outfeed as the TS, same feed direction and all that. Now my jointer feeds the other direction so, go figger?

[brett gallmeyer]

Hey,
I have a TS3650 check out my thread. Ask questions if you have any.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=87398

Brett g.

[scott spencer]

.... I've never understood why people put the router table on the right side instead of the left, especially if they have an outfeed table. ...

JW

Two valid reasons to put the RT on the right come to mind... 1. physical layout of the shop may dictate a right side router table. 2. Most saws are more likely to have a right side extension table due to having more rip capacity on the right side of the blade than the left.