What 10" Table Saw Should I Buy?

[Rich Huhra]

I am looking to purchase a new 10" table saw in the next few weeks and would like your thoughts on which would be best. The only requirement I have is it must operate on 110 volts 1 Phase. I know my choices are limited but what would be the best bang for the money.

Thanks
Richard

[Jim Becker]

No question, look at the "hybrid" type saws. They meet your 120v requirement and have many advantages over the old "contractors' style" saws. Some of the latest machines also come with riving knives which is very desirable, IMHO.

[Dewey Torres]

Jim gave you good advice. You only have 2 choices...

Hybrid
Contractor

The choice should be clear. The best contractor saw IMO is the SAWSTOP and it has a price tag to match the exclusive finger saving brake.

Hybrid saws are as close as you can get to cabinet saws w/110 requirements.

[Jason Whelehon]

Steel City has a REALLY nice saw running at 110v. It's a meager 1.75HP but that's what you get at 110v.

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=12&tool=35670

Why the voltage limitation? Nearly all residential service is 220v.

[glenn bradley]

I run a C-man 22124. close cousin to the Delta and the Steel City. the Delta went with table mounted trunnions IIRC. The SCTW has a superior fence by all reports and as the 22124 has a commercial Bies, that's saying something.

[scott spencer]

The top tier of hybrids are the best of the new 110v offerings IMHO. Craftsman 22124 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Craftsman_Professional_10_in_Table_Saw_22124/content_184778395268), Steel City 35670 (http://steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=12&tool=35670), Jet Proshop, GI 50-220CM1, Woodtek, Grizzly G0478 (http://grizzly.com/products/2-HP-Hybrid-Cabinet-Saw/G0478), G0661 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/g0661), and the Shop Fox W1748 (http://www.woodstockint.com/Products/W1748/) are all worth a look.

[Verne Mattson]

Just as an FYI, I had my 1 1/2 hp contrators saw on a 110 circuit for a short while. I'd recommend you have your saw on at least a 20 amp circuit - I tried mine on a 15 amp and it would blow the breaker pretty consistently on start up if there was anything else drawing power on the circuit. Induction motors draw higher amps starting up than when running.

I added a 220 circuit to my shop a month or two after buying my saw, and I haven't looked back. From my experience, motors over 1 hp will benefit from 220. The saw starts up faster and seems to run more powerfully under load.

[Mike Cutler]

Rich

I have the General International Model 50-220C Hybrid saw. It's been a fine saw for me. The fence is......... Well let's just say it's a "compromise" and leave it at that. I would seriously advise replacing it if you were to buy one.
The fence really is the heart of a tables saw. It will make or break one regardless of cost or power. Look to put the best fence you can afford on your table saw. Power is secondary for me

I also have an older Jet Contractor saw and it's been a good saw also. I've run some pretty tough material through both saws and have had no issues.

[Chris Kennedy]

Rich,

To echo every one else's sentiments, a hybrid is a better option than a contractor for the most part (the exception may be the SawStop which has a lot of engineering put into a contractor type saw). As Mike said -- invest in the fence. If it comes down to two saws, buy the one with the better fence.

When I bought my saw, I was likewise limited to 110 volts. It was a rental and somewhat on the older side. I would have a good look at your panel before dropping the money on a saw. I wasn't as unlucky as Verne -- I didn't blow a fuse whenever I started the saw, but the lights would dim. I thought it was just the lights in my basement shop. After a year, my wife told me that every time I started the saw, I dimmed every light in the house and scrozzed the TV.

All that being said, I recommend the Craftsman 22124. I've had mine for four years without complaint. Everything I have thrown at it, it has handled without a problem. It arrived perfectly aligned, and has held its alignment well. The Biesemeyer is an industry benchmark and it is fantastic.

Lastly, Popular Woodworking reviewed hybrids in an article within the last year. I forget who they ultimately recommended (FWIW, it wasn't the 22124) but you might find some helpful information there.

Cheers,

Chris

[John Yogus]

I bought the jet proshop a few months back. I'm more than satisfied with it. No problems yet. I would recommend it. not sure if its out yet, but I believe they were adding a riving knife in the near future to it. That would make it as close to a perfect hybrid as possible in my opinion. Maybe someone can verify the riving knife for me.

[Bruce Wrenn]

For new, the Craftsman 22124 would be my first choice. But there are plenty of used (American made) Delta contractor's saws on craiglist. Prices run from $150 to $700, depending upon condition, and accessories. The fence system is the largest determiner of price. I have a 20+ year old Delta contractor's saw which I earn my living on every day. I have a Uni, which I have had for five years, but just haven't taken the time to set up. Makes a great resting place for an old RAS.

[Denny Rice]

I agree with Glen and Scott S. you cannot go wrong with either the SC Hybrid or the Craftsman Zip code saw. Both saws are almost identical and use a lot of the same parts. (Both saws are made by Orion, in China.) The Craftsman has the Beisemeyer fence system which is a plus, but the Steel City comes with a standard 5 yr. warranty where the Craftsman is covered for 1 year. I own the Craftsman saw and do not regreat the purchase the saw is great and the fence is dead on.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I am looking to purchase a new 10" table saw in the next few weeks and would like your thoughts on which would be best. The only requirement I have is it must operate on 110 volts 1 Phase. I know my choices are limited but what would be the best bang for the money.
I feel I got the most bang for my buck as witnessed here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=82241&highlight=3660

I looked at several saws and scoured the used lists, both online and several local papers, for months. For the most part, I'm satisifed with the Ridgid TS3660.

[Ted Torres]

Richard,

All great suggestions above! I too went through this same decision process and after months of research, decided to go with the Craftsman 22124...Great saw and one of the Best Fence systems on the market! HERE (http://www.best-price.com/report/showReport/ReportID/943421/id/179497) is a detailed review of my experiences with the 22124.

Got mine this Spring for $900 and installed a quality Forrest WWII TK-40 tooth blade...cuts like butter through 8\4 hardwood oak! However, be advised that most Sears store saw displays are Poorly set up and are Not well maintained. Best to judge the 22124 performance by the WW's who have used it...Plenty of positive reviews on the net!!

Hope this helps, Good Luck with your Purchase!

Ted

[steve reeves]

Yet another vote for the Craftsman 22124. Mine has given great service the fence is top notch, cabinet mounted trunions etc etc. I was able to use several saws that friends had bought including a Unisaw a PM 66, a Jet super saw and a Grizzly cabinet saw (the Craftsman is a cabinet saw... why it's listed as a "hybrid" I have no idea). All were good saws but when I used another friends 22124 I couldn't tell any difference in the performance or accuracy of cut (it actually cut better than the Grizzly by a good margin and the Grizzly had a new WWII blade in it)

My saw needed no adjustments after assembly other than a .3 degree adjustment to the 45 degree bevel setting which can be done from above the table... another great feature of this saw. Easily passes the "nickel test" is quiet as table saws go..

I had looked at many saws before I upgraded from the contractor saw that I used for 15yrs prior. The production type saws can be tempting but unless you're going to be slamming full sized panels through them all day or rippinn 3" hardwood constantly they're really overkill for anyone else.

It will run on (and comes prewired for) 110, but I run everything I can on 220 as I only have 40A service run to my shop which is detached from the house by a good distance (200ft) which makes upgrading the service both problematic and expensive..

Some guys have found this saw on sale for under $950 from time to time but I waited 6 months waiting for it to go on sale.... in the meantime the price went up! then a couple months later it was listed on the craftsman club days discount list so I got it right at $1,000 with tax..

Good luck with your quest.

[Robert Chapman]

I bought the Steel City 10" hybrid last fall and really like everything about it. I strongly recommend that you get the saw with the Industrial Fence option - it's a very nice fence that is always in alaignment. I work mostly with hardwoods and the power of this saw at 110 volts is adequate.

[Peter Quinn]

Just get a PM66 and order a 110V Baldor motor. Do you have a 60A breaker? I often wonder why the resistance to putting in a 220V line or two? Maybe its because my father, my father in law and my next door neighbor are all electricians and I know my way around a panel myself, but to me installing 220 is like changing my socks. Sure opens up a lot of possibilities.

Not trying to challenge your decision or be obnoxious, just curious why voltage would be a primary restriction?

[Chris Kennedy]

Not trying to challenge your decision or be obnoxious, just curious why voltage would be a primary restriction?

A couple of people have asked this, and while I cannot speak for the original poster, there are very practical (though non-electrical) limitations why 220 may not be an option.

Speaking for myself, when I bought my saw, I was renting a townhouse and setting up a shop in the basement. I couldn't run a 220 circuit because I didn't own the place. While I now own my own house, my shop is a shed at the back of the lot and came pre-wired. Now, I haven't asked an electrician, but the jack-of-all-trades home inspector told me I would have to run new wire if I wanted 220 out there.

Also, look at capital outlay. A new cabinet saw is anywhere from twice to five times the cost of a new hybrid. If work has to be done by a licensed electrician to run a 220 circuit, that eats a lot of money. And while a used machine is always an option, I know I would be a little hesitant to buy a used machine simply because I wouldn't be confident enough to judge whether that particular machine is in good enough shape. I am not mechanically inclined enough to rely on my judgment. I would rather invest the capital in a machine that comes with a warranty. Additionally, if a used machine needs rehabbing, there is the time investment. To me, where I have precious spare time for my hobby, that is a serious concern.

Lastly, in case I sound defensive or "snippy" or worse, rest assured, that isn't the case. I'm just trying to point out limitations that can exist.

Saving to run 220,

Chris

[Leo Zick]

while 240 may not be an option, keep in mind most homes dont have a dedicated 10/2 line run to their shop location, on its own 30amp breaker - which seems to be a requirement for a 120V hybrid saw.

so, youre probably running new wire either way, just depends how many spare poles you have in your panelboard..

[Rob Luter]

I went with a Rigid TS3650 and have been very happy. It will run on 110 or 220 volt (I rewired for 220) so down the road if you have 220 available you can take advantage of the higher voltage.

[Jerome Hanby]

Does that mean the table saw that Emerson(Ridgid) built for Sears can also be rewired for 220? I saw nothing in the manual and just assumed...


I went with a Rigid TS3650 and have been very happy. It will run on 110 or 220 volt (I rewired for 220) so down the road if you have 220 available you can take advantage of the higher voltage.

[Heather Thompson]

Does that mean the table saw that Emerson(Ridgid) built for Sears can also be rewired for 220? I saw nothing in the manual and just assumed...
Jerome,

If you look at the motor it will be marked as 110/220 if it is possible to be rewired, there will also be a diagram of how to change the wiring to achive the change.

Heather

[Jerome Hanby]

That's what I figured, I did look and there is nothing about rewiring. Maybe I can use that as an excuse to shop for a cabinet saw after I get the shop rewired for 220.

[Peter Quinn]

while 240 may not be an option, keep in mind most homes dont have a dedicated 10/2 line run to their shop location, on its own 30amp breaker - which seems to be a requirement for a 120V hybrid saw.

so, youre probably running new wire either way, just depends how many spare poles you have in your panelboard..

That's what I'm thinking too. in fact most homes don't even have a 12/2 20A line convenient to a garage or basement. That puts out many dust collectors, drum sanders, and a few other things. I see the rental issue, many property managers or landlords would be hesitant to allow a renter to modify the electrical system. I guess I take my FIL, Dad and neighbor for granted. But even at $125/hour I would find a way to get a 220V line and a few 20A circuits in the shop, maybe a dedicated sub panel if it makes sense. Not everyone needs a cabinet saw, that part was a joke.

[Jim Jones]

If you are in your own house, and if you have a 220v electrical service panel, you can do most of the wiring work and not break the bank.

Two years ago I added two 110v 15A circuits to my garage so I could get off the garage circuit which had other stuff on it. Just wouldn't run but a minute or two when I ran my table saw and shop vac at the same time. I wired it myself by adding two 14/2 cables, which handle 15Amps each, and installed two 110v 15A breakers. In the garage I ran the wire through metal conduit. The wiring part of it is "easy" for almost anyone. Adding the breakers may be too dicey and uncomfortable for some, but you can get an electrician to install the breakers for at most, 1 hour of labor. It cost $135 including breakers for the two 220v circuits. I also put two wall mounted power strips at 42" above the floor. Worked great, looks decent, and was much less hassle to run all my equipment.

This year, I decided to upgrade to a hybrid table saw and to add a dust collector. Since 1.5 HP and 2 HP motors push the limits of a 110v 15A circuit, I decided to quit wringing my hands about it and to upgrade the wiring also. I ran 2 more 14/2 cables for 220v lines into the garage. This time, I paid an electrician to install the 15A breakers for the 220v lines because it took some rearranging of circuits inside the panel. He did it with power on, which I would personally not like to do.

I ran the new wiring through PVC conduit in the garage. Now the heavier equipment runs at full power without pushing the limits of the 110v circuits.

Takes the pain out of 110v vs 220v decisions.

Now if Grizzly would ever start shipping the G0661 (aarrrgggghhhh!!!!).

Jim
The pics below: (1) Both conduits coming from basement into garage. (2) One of two 220v 15A outlets. (3) Two 110v 15A strips.

[Alan Muller]

Why buy new when you can get so much more for your money with a used saw and it's no more likely to need a bunch of tuning up than a new one.....

In most cases making 240 V available is no big deal. If you have a dedicated circuit available it can usually be converted to 220 without a lot of expense. Different outlet, two pole breaker.... so don't let this issue automatically control your decisions ....

JMO.

[Bob Carreiro]

+1 for the Craftsman Hybrid.

I own one and IMO, think they're a little under rated. They seem to have the biggest bang for the buck, especially when on sale.

[Don Buck]

I purchased a slightly used Dewalt 746 hybrid last year and have been very pleased with the saw, fence and dust collection. Also has one of the smallest footprints of all the hybrids.

[Callan Campbell]

This thread is from 2008-While I've been known to ALSO jump into an old,dead, thread, I thought I might point out how old this one is....

[scott vroom]

You should look at the new Grizzly 10" hybrid saw. 2HP, riving knife, will run on 110, $900 shipped. I've been happy with my Griz tools; best price/value IMO, and the customer service is top shelf.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P

Good luck.