Photo Lighting Help

[Bruce Pennell]

Since I'm laid up at the moment, and can't be on my feet for another week or two. I decided it was time to learn to photograph my projects a little better. I just ordered from HF a 32" collapsible photo tent. I've seen 5000k lighting mentioned on a lot of other posts. How many lights do you use and how do you place them? From the other posts the lights are easily found at most BORGs. Thanks for the input, you photo bugs gave me great advise on the Cannon SD750 camera, I really like it. Thanks for the help! Bruce

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bruce - I use the compact florescent Daylight bulbs but watch out what temp rating you get. I have the 5700*K and they tend to give everything a slight blue tint. If you go below 5100*K things will pick up a yellow tint. Just something for you to be aware of.

Placement: I use 2 bulbs in cheap clip-on reflectors and have one bulb located above and to the right of the photo tent, other is located on the left side of the tent and is at the same height as the object be photographed. You have to play games with the placement of the lights as each will cast a shadow and change the entire look of the object you are taking a picture of.

Lots of info on this subject already on the site. Do a search and check out the photo tutorial that Brian Brown put together.

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Steve I have been running through a lot of the old posts, I'll look up Brian's post. Thanks For your help...Bruce

[Scott Conners]

The most important factor is that all of the light falling on the subject is the same color - don't mix lights, including daylight from a window (usually a window is stronger than 1-4 100w bulbs). Your Canon's auto white balance is pretty darn good, and you can always tweak in an image editor - your camera probably came with a simple one or at least a trial of one, or you can download/buy one. If you're cheap, the GIMP is free and powerful, or if you like photoshop you can skin it to look similar. Not the ultimate in ease of use, but it is free.

Look up white balance in the cameras manual, it's the key to getting true to life colors. Setting a custom white balance is fairly simple and very effective. Try using a white seamless paper background, and expose +1/2 to +1 stops above what the camera meter wants to expose - look up EV (exposure value) compensation in the manual to find out how, its usually very simple. This will compensate for the all white background, which the camera will try to balance to make even grey.

The great thing about digital is that it's easy to experiment with lighting! Take a number of shots with different lighting - I'd start with two lights above my shoulders (from the camera) and some light from the side, but it really depends on the individual piece.

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Scott, I'm a Linux user so I've played with Gimp for years, great program. Thanks for the lighting and camera tips..looks like I will have a lot to read and play with while my foot heals up. I'll found some great gimp tutorials online and I'll have to read the manual on the camera now (never took the time before). Thanks for the help...Bruce

[Neal Addy]

Another Linux/GIMP user, huh? I've been running Gentoo for years.

You've gotten some great advice here. I completely agree with Scott's suggestions. White Balance is one of the TOP key factors in a good photo. Using the lights you mentioned, experiment with the "flourescent" and "custom" settings and see what you can do with it.

Another important factor is platform stability. If you don't already have one, pick up a tripod and use it. Even a cheap one (like a $20 Quantaray or similar) will do for product shots.

I use the 5200K CF lights you mentioned and have good results with them. I use them in a set of aluminum work light reflectors from the Borg (see attachment). Works fine.

Whatever you do, don't use flash!

Another way to jazz up your photos is with a nice backdrop. A piece of white posterboard curved up the back of your tent makes a nice background. If you really want to get fancy you might look at some of the graduated backdrops that are available. See the gallery on my homepage for some examples.

Just don't get too sucked into the Photo Vortex! It's even deeper then the Turning Vortex. DAMHIKT. :rolleyes:

Here's my setup.

94636

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Neal for the picture, "worth a thousand words". I just thought since I'm laid up for a couple weeks I'd try to improve my photography skills (or large lack of skill). I have to run to the foot doctor and the blue borg is just up the road so I'll pick up some lights today. Thanks for the help....Bruce
I've been an Ubuntu fan for a few years now. Tried quite a few others for fun but keep coming back to Ubuntu. The tent I ordered looks just like yours.

[Brian Brown]

Bruce,

Usually you'll find two lights to be sufficient. You can add a third or more, but each light just adds complexity to the setup, so keep it simple. It is not necessay to go to the expense of buying 5000K lights. Just use quartz halogen or tungsten lights and set your camera white balance accordingly (incandescent or the light bulb symbol). You can also use the auto white balance, but it is better if you use the manual. If your subject has a strong color it can shift the cameras perception of neutral. I find that it also works best if one light is 1/2 the intensity of the other. This gives a feeling of depth and dimension to your piece. One last thought. The only drawback to QH lights is the heat. It is uncomfortable to work under it for a long period, and it can be a fire hazard if you leave it unattended. Good luck. If you have more questions, just ask.

[Neal Addy]

Agreed. Two lights are usually enough.

Not to highjack this thread, but...

Brian, how do you deal with lighting for highly reflective pieces? That's still one of the biggest challenges I face. I usually go with one diffused light from the side and a reflected light from the front to fill shadow, but this still doesn't give me what I want.

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks again for the great info, should be a fun adventure. Just got back from the Doc's should be able to get back to turning next week. Can't wait for the tent to arrive. I will have enough to keep me busy for the next week, GIMP tutorials, camera manual, and all my turning videos.
The funny thing is my foot doctor is a photo buff, 19 cameras, he wouldn't say how many lenses, just told me he hides them from his wife. He recommended a light ring. I think the system we have talked about will be fine. First time a doctor spent a huge amount of time just shooting the breeze about cameras. He's a great person and doctor.
Hopefully I won't step on any more pocket screws, then walk around on them for an hour or two. Didn't know it was there until I tried to take my shoe off. I like pocket screws for my face plates, not my feet. Thanks again for the great advice, keep turning and clicking...Bruce

[David Walser]

...
The funny thing is my foot doctor is a photo buff, 19 cameras, he wouldn't say how many lenses, just told me he hides them from his wife. He recommended a light ring. I think the system we have talked about will be fine. ... (Emphasis added.)

I doubt you'll need or even want a light ring for taking pictures of your turnings. Light rings are generally used in macro photography, such as taking a picture of a bug's smiling face. I doubt any of your turnings are going to be anywhere nearly that small!

As for your question about how to take pictures of highly reflective surfaces, that depends. If you have a DSLR and a tripod, you should be able to avoid any objectionable glare by reducing the intensity of your lighting and increasing your exposure time. You might also try using a polarizing filter. Even without a DSLR and tripod, your light tent should help reduce the glare by diffusing the light.

Good luck and hope your foot heals completely.

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks David I agree the light ring didn't sound like something I would need or want. Thanks for the info. I did do a series of 5 miniature mesquite hollow forms the smallest is about 1/3 the size of a dime. Very fun and fast to do. Had to keep making smaller tools, started with a standard screw driver, then a riffling file, then a dental pick for the smallest one. Lots of fun and great practice. Thanks again ...Bruce
PS can not wait to post pic's. (good ones)

[Neal Addy]

Hadn't even thought of using my polarizing filter for product shots. I'll have to experiment with that. Thanks!

Bruce, David raises another good point. You don't want too bright a wattage lights for your photo tent. I generally find a couple of 40 watt bulbs (no more than 60 watts) works best. This might sound counter-intuitive (after all, you're trying to flood the tent with diffused light, right?) but too much wattage and you'll have to pull the lights back A LOT to deal with hot spots.

[Toney Robertson]

Bruce,

Great information has already been given to you but since I have just recently gone through this trying to improve my photographs, I would like to add.

Use the timer on the camera. It is amazing how much shake you get from just pressing a button.

I will reiterate what others have said but white balance is paramount. I use the tungsten setting on the camera. It seems to give me the most realistic colors.

Just play around with different settings and lighting, you will find your photos getting better the more you tweak.

Toney

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Toney can't wait for the tent to get here....Bruce

[Phillip Bogle]

One note about reflections. To eliminate all reflections may not be desirable. I have used reflections in well placed locations for dynamic impact. Adjust your lights around until it reflects where you want it to.

I have brushes in Photoshop that add reflection and sparkle stars. Funny how things are. Like one man's firewood is another man's opportunity for expression.

[Denny Rice]

If you are using more than one light and find you need more light in one certain area, white foam boards make great reflectors. By setting up the lights and moving foam board back and forth from the top you can direct more or less light onto the subject. Most Commercial photographers work with no more than 3 lights the rest is usually done with reflectors.;)

[dan mosheim]

Hi ... I have been making stuff professionally for almost 30 years and for the first 20 of them had work photographed by a professional photographer. He was fantastic and taught me many things but he retired 10 years ago and I've been on my own since. You can figure it out. It's a 'you have to spend the time to learn it' thing. I've gotten great help from professional photographers in my area who are willing to share. Or, hire one for an hour consultation. It will probably be money well spent and save you a lot of time. The white balance tips in the other posts are right on ... your light source needs to be consistent and balanced on all sides of the object. We block out the daylight with felt window covers when we shoot, or shoot at night in a dark room. If you're photographing larger furniture outside your tent, you will probably need to correct for lens distortion and parallax, a MOST important thing for furniture photographers. I have posted detailed instructions for that on my blog at http://dorsetcustomfurniture.blogspot.com/2008/06/fix-pix.html ... This tip can keep your furniture from looking like it's taking off or wider at the top than the bottom. Good luck ...dan

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Phillip it sounds like it going to be fun to play with.

Thanks Denny I am going to start with two lights, the clip on reflector type.

Thanks Dan, great blog, what a neat way to show off your custom work to your customers. Very nice work. Great idea about getting a photographer to show me the ropes. I am sure that would speed up the learning curve.

Tent should be here late next week was on back order so it does give me some extra time to learn my camera setting. I am lucky, I have a basement to set up my photo tent in. May sound strange, but in Arizona they didn't build many basements. Thanks to all for all of your info and suggestions.....Bruce