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View Full Version : no gloat: new saw, finished router table, shop is framed



Leo Zick
08-09-2008, 8:44 AM
Lots goin on!

For starters, after convincing myself I 'need' a 240V cabinet saw, and not being able to decide b/t the grizzly, jet, steel city or delta, I stumbled on a brand new grizzly g0478 hybrid on craigslist. the owner had it sitting in his basement for 7 months, so i was nervous, but once I ran power to it (man, 30 amp@120V, what a waste! ill have to buy a 240V switch), it started up and hummed like a charm.

there was some problem with the fence, water damage rusted the adjusting bolts. nothing my friend Mr. 40 cant fix (no, not colt 45 40oz, wd40!).

i measured blade to fence square and 45, fence accuracy and runout (is it called runout, where the back is slightly out from the front?). anyway, it was set up perfect from the factory.

considering ive never seen a grizzly, i couldnt be happier. this thing cut everything!! the only thing it slowed down *a bit* on was 1" black walnut, but still cut it perfect. the cut edge was cleaner than the others!

my only complaints are the insert (may be a zero clearance) and the splitter. the splitter seems to do more harm than good. i actually managed to launch and ricochet a piece of 3/4" birch lumber i was test cross cutting. scary,, ive never done that. wow. so, i took the splitter off. i seem to have more control now, and can see what the wood is doing. do any of you remove the splitter? im wondering if i can hack it into a riving knife. maybe that would be better.

so, next, router table is complete. im happy with it.. works great! all i think i need is a taller fence.

finally, with all this fancy stuff i dont have time to use, i framed and partially sheetrocked my shop. its around 10x14, which is more than adequate for me. only other thing i want is a dust collector for it. just need to rock the back wall, tape and prime. dont think ill paint right away. also need to install a subpanel for all the work ive done/am doing in the basement, including a breaker for the shop receptacles, and moving the saw breaker, so my wife can have her jacuzzi breaker back :p

so, with my rambling, some questions:
1. im still debating if the back wall should be strictly wood storage. any suggestions on overall layout? ill be finishing my poorly constructed wood storage box, but need places for the larger pieces, and the long lumber. its nice having long lumber on the shelf, but you cant see most of it! lol. i like to see things to visualize ideas, not rely on remembering whats there.

2. can anyone recommend how to make a foldable outfeed table? for now, i just use my router table.

Thanks and hope everyone enjoys!

Leo Zick
08-09-2008, 8:45 AM
the pics.. :)

Mike Goetzke
08-09-2008, 8:53 AM
Lots goin on!

For starters, after convincing myself I 'need' a 240V cabinet saw, and not being able to decide b/t the grizzly, jet, steel city or delta, I stumbled on a brand new grizzly g0478 hybrid on craigslist. the owner had it sitting in his basement for 7 months, so i was nervous, but once I ran power to it (man, 30 amp@120V, what a waste! ill have to buy a 240V switch), it started up and hummed like a charm.

there was some problem with the fence, water damage rusted the adjusting bolts. nothing my friend Mr. 40 cant fix (no, not colt 45 40oz, wd40!).

i measured blade to fence square and 45, fence accuracy and runout (is it called runout, where the back is slightly out from the front?). anyway, it was set up perfect from the factory.

considering ive never seen a grizzly, i couldnt be happier. this thing cut everything!! the only thing it slowed down *a bit* on was 1" black walnut, but still cut it perfect. the cut edge was cleaner than the others!

my only complaints are the insert (may be a zero clearance) and the splitter. the splitter seems to do more harm than good. i actually managed to launch and ricochet a piece of 3/4" birch lumber i was test cross cutting. scary,, ive never done that. wow. so, i took the splitter off. i seem to have more control now, and can see what the wood is doing. do any of you remove the splitter? im wondering if i can hack it into a riving knife. maybe that would be better.

so, next, router table is complete. im happy with it.. works great! all i think i need is a taller fence.

finally, with all this fancy stuff i dont have time to use, i framed and partially sheetrocked my shop. its around 10x14, which is more than adequate for me. only other thing i want is a dust collector for it. just need to rock the back wall, tape and prime. dont think ill paint right away. also need to install a subpanel for all the work ive done/am doing in the basement, including a breaker for the shop receptacles, and moving the saw breaker, so my wife can have her jacuzzi breaker back :p

so, with my rambling, some questions:
1. im still debating if the back wall should be strictly wood storage. any suggestions on overall layout? ill be finishing my poorly constructed wood storage box, but need places for the larger pieces, and the long lumber. its nice having long lumber on the shelf, but you cant see most of it! lol. i like to see things to visualize ideas, not rely on remembering whats there.

2. can anyone recommend how to make a foldable outfeed table? for now, i just use my router table.

Thanks and hope everyone enjoys!

Congrats on the new saw but we need pictures:D (I see you added them while I was typing).

Please tell us you are going to re-attach the splitter. Sounds like your splitter just needs adjustment or your technique or other adjustment is out of whack. Some use shims but others just need a little persuasion (bend by hand) for alignment. If available I suggest you get a Shark Guard - splitter/guard/dust port.

Riving knife - if the saw doesn't come with one you are pretty much out of luck.

Outfeed table - this is what I have:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/th_IMG_0904_2_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/IMG_0904_2_1.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/th_IMG_0734_4_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/IMG_0734_4_1.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/th_IMG_0735_5_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/IMG_0735_5_1.jpg)



Good luck with the new TS!




Mike

Don Abele
08-09-2008, 8:59 AM
Leo, nice gloat on the tablesaw. Congrats. Nice router table as well. Many people remove the stock splitter/guard. Most make it harder (not safer) to use the saw. I have an aftermarket splitter and guard on my Jet.

As far as wood storage, I keep mine on the wall closest to where it enters the shop and on the infeed side of the tablesaw. This way it's always moving in one direction. I don't take it through the door, all the way to the back to store, then have to move it all the way back to the front to run it through the saw.

When setting up placement of tools, think through your process of working the wood. Try to minimize the distance between tools you use frequently when sizing (like the tablesaw, jointer, and planer).

By far the best folding outfeed table I've seen is the one by our very own Creeker, Jim Becker: http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm.

One suggestion, I'd add A LOT more light in there. You'll really appreciate the difference it makes.

Be well,

Doc

Leo Zick
08-09-2008, 9:15 AM
Congrats on the new saw but we need pictures:D (I see you added them while I was typing).

Please tell us you are going to re-attach the splitter. Sounds like your splitter just needs adjustment or your technique or other adjustment is out of whack. Some use shims but others just need a little persuasion (bend by hand) for alignment. If available I suggest you get a Shark Guard - splitter/guard/dust port.

Riving knife - if the saw doesn't come with one you are pretty much out of luck.

Mike

i aligned the splitter with the blade. the problem is when cutting small pieces, strips, or cross cutting, the front of splitter grabs the piece and causes it to twist into the blade, or with thin strips, they go behind the splitter, then fall into the insert slot, then get grabbed by the blade and launch.

im sure my technique isnt good, but after seeing a 3"x3" block of ply fly across my room and just miss me, ill suffer with the risk of exposed blade vs a splitter that helps the blade suck in small pieces :/

thx for the shark guard tip!

Don Bullock
08-09-2008, 9:16 AM
Leo, congratulations on your new saw and shop. Your post sure looks like a good gloat to me.


... its around 10x14, which is more than adequate for me...

Warning! One's shop size is never adequate.;):D

Leo Zick
08-09-2008, 9:17 AM
Leo, nice gloat on the tablesaw. Congrats. Nice router table as well. Many people remove the stock splitter/guard. Most make it harder (not safer) to use the saw. I have an aftermarket splitter and guard on my Jet.

As far as wood storage, I keep mine on the wall closest to where it enters the shop and on the infeed side of the tablesaw. This way it's always moving in one direction. I don't take it through the door, all the way to the back to store, then have to move it all the way back to the front to run it through the saw.

When setting up placement of tools, think through your process of working the wood. Try to minimize the distance between tools you use frequently when sizing (like the tablesaw, jointer, and planer).

By far the best folding outfeed table I've seen is the one by our very own Creeker, Jim Becker: http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm.

One suggestion, I'd add A LOT more light in there. You'll really appreciate the difference it makes.

Be well,

Doc


cool. link, thanks. ill have to draw up some plans!

these are about all the tools ill have for a while, so the layout seems to be ok. i may just move the longer boards above the router table, then make storage on the back wall and rear right wall for other pieces.

i have another box set up for a light on the right side of the shop, and there are windows in it. itll get much more bright in there :D

(my garage has 4 4' 2 light strips, and 3 1' task lights..hehe)

Jerry Olexa
08-09-2008, 1:33 PM
Nice looking shop and congrats on your new tools. Like your router table. Looks like you mounted a Rockler top on Norm's NYW router table underneath? Also, looks good and good idea!!! Tops can be a challenge!!

Leo Zick
08-09-2008, 3:53 PM
Nice looking shop and congrats on your new tools. Like your router table. Looks like you mounted a Rockler top on Norm's NYW router table underneath? Also, looks good and good idea!!! Tops can be a challenge!!

Thanks! it was my first real use of joints, drawers, etc.

i saw a picture of norms, liked the concept, so just used the general layout. i only have one bit drawer (middle left), a large bottom drawer, a pencil and small item drawer (top left), and my router accessory drawer (bottom left). on the right is a wire chase slide (top), and large drawer with no sides, on a dovetail slide for sign kit and larger boxes.

its a rockler top with the cabinet to fit, 1.5" overhang on the sides for a clamp in case i need to set fence outside the slides. flush front and back.

birch 3/4" ply everywhere, oak drawer faces and trim.

without plans/dimensions i winged it as i went along..

Jim O'Dell
08-09-2008, 7:17 PM
Leo, what came on your saw is a splitter and blade guard. The splitter sits behind the blade and should keep the cut off piece to the right from binding on the blade, causing a launch when it cuts through. The guard keeps the blade from spitting the little cut pieces of wood back at you as the blade exits the wood on top during a cut. On my Ridgid, I took the guard off of the splitter, and built a different one for dust collection on top of the blade. It gives me a little better view of the cut. I still need to modify the splitter so it will go back on. Also need to modify the short table at the rear of the saw so that the the splitter will go back on. :o I may try to build an add on splitter that will fit inside the overhead guard. A true riving knife is mounted to the blade mechanism and goes up and down with the blade, and stays slightly below the top of the blade at all times. There are some other versions of this that people call riving knives, that are not true riving knives. IMHO.
Congrats on the saw and the shop!! Both look great! Jim.