Which sanding system?

[Paul Maxwell]

Up until now my sanding system has consisted of my hands and cut up sheets of sandpaper. I am ready to move up to something a little more fun and efficient. Is a power system the way to go, and if so is the Souix/Milwaukee angle drill the only real option? What about the Sorby sanding pads? I plan to cut my own sandpaper but could you share tips on an efficient way to do this?

[Cyril Griesbach]

Paul,
I've tried lots of ways and mostly I am now power sanding with a dewalt drill. The Milwaukee/Sioux is not the only option on right angle drills. Yesterday I just bought a cheapie at Harbor "Fright". I've heard lots of stories about the expensive right angle drills having problems from the dust so I just decided to to go a less expensive route.

I've also tried lots of sanding supplies and I really like Klingspors "Rolled Gold" for hand sanding but for power sanding (tried lots of things here too) I use the system from Vince Welch. He's a really nice guy and will answer any questions you have. You can also get a starter set of discs and pads for about $30 to see if you like them. You can check out his line at his web site.

http://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/

Cyril

[Curt Fuller]

No doubt the Souix/Milwaukee drill is a fine tool. But I've been using a Harbor Freight cheapy for several years now and can't seem to burn it up.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956
It's a right angle drill that sells for about 40 bucks, on sale now and then for half that.
As for sanding, I recently bought some of the PSA holders and discs in 2 & 3 inch and like them more than the hook and loop velcro setups.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Abrasives___PSA_Discs?Args=

[Doug Miller]

Curt, why do you prefer the PSA? Just curious.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Paul - the Prez of our turning club is pretty much a production bowl turner and he has a couple of the Sioux drills. He has to replace the brushes once a year at a cost of $75 (he has someone do it for him) and he was very interested in the system I use - which is: cheapest 3/8" variable speed drill I can find and sanding disks and holder from Vince Welch. The drill costs less than $25 and when the brushes go bad I just buy another drill. Just another option for getting the job done.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I am with Curt. When Harbour Freight had a sale on their cheap angle drills I bought 3 of them for $25 each. I have been using the one for a year now and it is still going. When it decides to go I will pull another one out of the box. I got 2" and 3" sanding disk from Vince's and now power sand everything.

Curt I am curious to as I have been using hook and loop. Are they easier to change than my belt/disc sander to change?

[Bruce Pennell]

I'm with Bernie, I also bought three of the cheap HF drills. I'm still using the first one. I had read about Souix's problem with dust. Easier and cheaper to toss a $20 drill in the trash than to pay $75 for new brushes. I bought the 2 year warranty with my HF drills. They do have a great return policy with the warranty. HF is designed with the air intake on the bottom as far away from the dust as possible.
I did try an air system first. Very loud and hard on the compressor, harder on the ears. Now it sits on the shelf.

[John Strait]

I got 2" and 3" sanding disk from Vince's and now power sand everything.



Who is Vince?

Thanks,
John

[Toney Robertson]

Who is Vince?

Thanks,
John

Here you go:

http://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/

Vince is a nice guy that gives OUTSTANDING service. Just ordered a box full of stuff.

Toney

[Richard Madison]

Consider using a straight drill (instead of the angle drill) for all the areas you can reach with it. It may last longer and will help prolong the life of your angle drill. I usually use a 2" pad on the straight drill and a 1" pad on the HF angle drill. For sanding the outside bottom center where that little nib was, I use the 1" pad in a jacobs chuck/MT2 in the lathe spindle and handhold the workpiece.

[John Strait]

Thanks Toney, I will check it out!

[Curt Fuller]

Curt, why do you prefer the PSA? Just curious.

Doug and Bernie, I bought the PSA setup because they suggested the Cubitron discs would outlast the regular discs by something like 2 or 3 times. And I think they do last longer but I'm not really one to keep track. But the main reason I like them is that I have bad luck with the hook and loop and heat from sanding. I probably get too agressive with sanding but can't help myself. Once the hook and loop pads get a little hot they melt the little hooks and loose their holding power and I have to replace the hook side. But so far it seems that the PSA, although it will get hot and soften the adhesive, when it cools down will retain the stickiness to hold the sanding disc. I bought 4 holders for 80, 120, 240, 320. I final sand with 400 or 600 by hand. But having 4 holders so you don't have to change pads makes it so you can use the disc until it's worn out. Trying to change discs and reuse them never works for me. Neither the PSA or the hook and loop will stick a second time.

[Paul Maxwell]

The Harbor Freight drills seems like a great option for me. Thanks for the tip! They list 2 different ones, is there any real difference between them? And do most of you just get the discs from Tony or do you make your own?

[Reed Gray]

The Siuox/Milwaukee drill isn't a 90 degree drill, it is more like 60 degrees. The 90 degree ones don't get to the bottom of the bigger bowls as easily. I tried one of the clones, and got less than a month out of it before the casing wore out, not the bearings. I normally get about 6 months, or 300 plus bowls out of the drill before the bearings go. I got some fancy bearings, and they didn't seem to last any longer. I did slow the speed on the drill down by placing a 1/4 inch thick piece of cork under the trigger. This helped the last drill last for 425 bowls. Vince did recomend slowing the rpm on the drill to 600 or so, and less than that for the finer grits. I tried it and it isn't any slower at sanding than the higher speeds, and does a better over all job.

As far as which abrasive to try, I tried everything out there except the 3M purple discs that Mike Mahoney uses. The only ones out there that come close to Vinces discs for lasting, and keeping a good cutting edge are the green ceramic discs that both Packard and Craft Supplies carry. They are at least twice the price. These discs (all 3 or them) are on a plastic film, not paper. They are more flexable, and have a great grit consistancy. You can now get sheet stock from Vince if you want to punch your own.

robo hippy

[Alan Huey]

I have had an air die grinder (small compact) for many years. Turned air flow down to turn just the right speed. Works well and has lasted a long time. Use many different sanding attachments, but really like the wave's with hook and loop. Quick to work up through the grit.

[Alec Moseley]

My Sioux just clanked to an end over the weekend. I got a 3/8", variable speed, close quarters drill from Harbor Freight Sales, which is keyless, unlike the Sioux, and was on sale for $39.95. I can buy several more of those before I will match what I paid for the Sioux a few years back.

[Thomas Canfield]

I bought the cheap angle drill from Klingpor last fall when price was down to $29.95 or something and had free shipping before Christmas. Later, I found the Milwaukee on close-out at the local ACE hardware for $99.95 and it followed me home. Now, I have to say that I usually pick up the cheap Kilngpor clone (blue color) with short 2" shaft and disk instead of the more obvious redthat has a 12" shaft and 2" disc mounted. The Milwaukee is a little heavier, but it also has plastic gears. The operation of both are about the same with the speed possibly a little smother on the clone.

Next time, I will likely replace with a clone whichever goes bad. Repair does not seem practical for either one if the bushings are $75 for the Milwaukee.