Help adjusting Grizzly bandsaw G0555

[Albert Wagner]

I just purchased a Grizzly 14" bandsaw (G0555) and immediately added the riser kit (H3051). I intend to use it primarily for resawing, therefore I installed a grizzly 105"x3/4"x3tpi blade. I downloaded all of the tune-up PDFs from the Fine Working web site to help in setup. I still have, at least, three unresolved problems:

(1) The top wheel is inset about 1/8" from the bottom wheel. This is only approximate, in that the tilt adjustment is almost all the way in to keep the blade centered. I have read in some of my literature that this is typically solved by shimming the top wheel out. But other sources say that this should only be done on saws not made in Taiwan, and of course, the grizzly is made in Taiwan.

(2) I believe that I have a deformed blade. Despite all of the known adjustments, my blade wiggles, not side to side, but front to back. It is therefore impossible to set the thrust bearing to the recommended gap. I don't think that there is an adjustment for this. It is not the wheels (but I have been wrong before :), because when I place a 6" machinists square against the back of the blade and turn it by hand, I get the following behaviour: (a) it starts with the square touching the bottom of the blade and the top of the square clear of the blade by about 1/32", then (b) about a half turn later the blade is equidistant, about 1/16", from both top and bottom. Then, (c) about a turn later it closes back up to its starting position. Then, (d) after a total of
a full two and one-half turns, the cycle starts again.

(3) I am not sure that most of the tips I have read from the web are useful for a wide blade, like the 3/4". I'm not sure that I can even stretch it to the setting on the tensioner, without bending the frame. It seems to run better set very low, less than a 1/2" blade setting.

Thanks ahead, for any help you may have.

[Dick Sylvan]

Seems to me that a 3/4 " blade on this saw, particularly with a riser kit installed is more than it is up to. I just bought a MM16 after reading many comments that for resawing you just need the biggest, stiffest saw that you can get. Maybe you don't need a saw as big as a MM16, but maybe bigger than you have.

[Don Eddard]

In my experience with a Grizzly BS, I'd suspect the blade is part of your "wiggle" problem. I was not impressed with the factory blade on mine.

No experience with the shimming, so no suggestions on that.

For resawing, I've had my best results with the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware.

The tension indicator is not a real reliable gauge IME. OK for showing relative tension, but not necessarily absolute tension. Look into the "flutter method" and see if that helps things run smoother. From the sounds of things, it looks like you might have accidentally discovered the flutter method in your own experimenting and adjusting.

[Dick Rowe]

I have that same saw with the riser block installed and agree with Don's comments above.

I also have not been very happy with stock Grizzly blade quality and have found that the 1/2" Woodslicer is a great resawing blade on this particular machine. My research has led me to believe that while the Grizzly specs say it will take a 3/4" blade, it may be unneccessarily taxing the tool. Most sources I have found say that for this saw, a good quality 1/2" blade should be the widest you use.

I also echo Don's comment on the built in gauge. After the first few blade changes I don't even look at mine any more because it is so far off. Get comfortable with the flutter method for adjusting tension.

As far as the issue with the top wheel, I have had nothing but positive experiences when I have had to use Grizzly's tech support line. I would give them a call.

[Barry Vabeach]

Al, I bought a blade for a bandsaw recently and had a little trouble getting it into place on the saw. During that process I put a small bend or kink in it - it wasn't visible but I got a very severe front to back wiggle. When I took tho blade off and laid it on a table the blade didn't lie flat, you could see light under certain parts. So my guess is that it is the blade. Even without a kink or bend, the stock saw is garbage. It is strange that manufacturers ship their new saws with such trash blades, but I guess most of them do it to keep the price down.

[Burt Alcantara]

I've used a 3/4" blade to resaw logs. I had no problems until the blade got stuck in a very hard log and bent. Since that time I've gone back to using 1/2" blades but have not sawed any logs for a while.

I use Timberwolf blades. Recently I had to resaw some 6" wide leopard wood. Suffolk Machine suggested the 3/4x3 blade or a 1/2x4. I bought both. Haven't tried the 3/4 yet but the 1/2x4 is working fine.

My saw also wiggles front to back. Since it will resaw very thing slices, 1/32", I don't pay any attention to it.. The guides on my saw were pretty junky and have never really worked all that well so I completely ignore them.

I tension my blades as much as I can turn the crank. The flutter method never worked for me -- too much drift. With maximum tension I get good clean straight cuts. So far, my blades are lasting longer because I don't get kinks anymore. YMMV.

Burt

[Joel Goodman]

Agree with the comment about trying a 1/2" woodslicer (from Highland Hardware) or other quality blade. I would do that before any more serious tune up.

[Albert Wagner]

Thanks, everyone. It's good to know that I am not just crazy. The 3/4" blade was not the one included with the riser kit and, of course, the OEM blade that came with the saw would no longer fit with the riser. It was a grizzly blade, but not a very expensive one. Only $15. I think I'll install the 105"x1/2" blade that came with the riser kit, just to see if it can be adjusted. I am also glad that several of you recommended the wood slicer from Highland. In an article from Fine Woodworking (2004) the slicer came in first among 19 they tested. So I had decided to try one too. I did try the "flutter" test per the Grizzly manual, but I don't think that the thicker and stiffer 3/4" blade can flutter. Or perhaps, I don't know what they mean by "flutter". Also, as someone above pointed out, the G0555, especially with the riser installed, may just not be able to handle a 3/4" blade well. Though aside from the back and forth movement, it cuts really great. Thanks again.

[Tom Esh]

All bandsaw blades are not created equal, both in terms of performance and tension required. The difference between an OEM or value priced blade and something like a Timberwolf is truly amazing. My only Griz blade (the one that came with the saw) went into the trash immediately after the first cut with a Timberwolf. My G0457 tensions a 3/4" Timberwolf with ease, but I'd never try anything larger than 1/2" in a lesser blade. Do yourself a favor and order a couple of good blades. They'll put a lot less strain on the saw and make tuning it much easier - and you may well find you don't need more drastic measures, like wheel shimming. FWIW, on my saw the TW 1/2" 3tpi works almost as well as the 3/4" for resawing - close enough it's hardly worth the trouble to change.

[Rich Harris]

My Grizzly blade was not so good either. I just went with Timberwolf right off the bat. By the way, Suffolk Machine has a buy 3 get one free deal right now. The tech support is awesome and they will steer a new saw owner in the right direction. BTW, I really love my new Griz 17" saw.

[Bill Fellmy]

I have the Grizzly GO555 with the riser installed. For resawing, I use the Timberwolf 1/2" 3tpi with satisfactory results. I have used TW blades exclusively for the past three years and have been pleased. Very good product and great customer service.

[Howard Acheson]

Here is video about aligning your saw. It's is excellent.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/file.jsp?item=video/player&temp=yes&bcpid=979295690&bclid=1243638292&bctid=1641902277

In spite of what it says in the manual, 3/4" blades are not appropriate on 14" band saws. They do not track correctly on a crowned tire and can wander as you are describing. A 1/2" 3 tpi blade does an excellent job.