Which finishes?

[Keith Spaniel]

I have only used mylands cellulose sealer. Then I bees wax it. I like the fast application of mylands. It works great on the spalted elm and hickory ,but its harder to apply to maple and walnut. It seems to not look as good on walnut.I don't like the oil look much, from the different oils. What products or finishes do you like to use or would recommend? Thanks

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Keith,

I buy Zinser's dewaxed shellac by the gallon at my local Ace Hardware store. On a lot of my turnings I'll friction in BLO followed by Zinser's dewaxed shellac. Often I'll follow the shellac with Deft brushing lacquer.

Deft brushing lacquer by itself is a good finish.

I use Min-wax Antique oil on my bowls and HFs.

I also use danish oil on my bowls and HFs.

On bowls and HFs I have had the best luck with the Antique oil. I wet the project down liberally and after 10 minutes wipe off the access. I let it dry overnight and repeat the process. Normally two coats is enough but once in a while it'll take a third coat. After the last coat, I'll let it dry for a couple of days and then buff it. I use the same process with danish oil.

You have to experiment and find what works for you.

I started out and in fact, still have a new unopened bottle of Mylands friction polish which is wax and shellac. I seldom use it anymore unless I know it is for a project that won't get handled much.

One thing I have found with the shellac and Deft brushing lacquer, if it gets too thick it won't spread evenly. If this happens I just thin the shellac with DNA and I thin the Deft with lacquer thinner.

Good luck!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I pretty much do what Ken does. I don't use any friction polishes any more because they just don't hold up. I use Danish Oil, Minwax Antique Oil, Wipe on Poly, and Lacquer. I have just started using General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by Arm-R-Seal. This stuff works good for utility pieces. It buffs out real nice when let sit for a week. Holds up pretty good so far.

[Jim Becker]

Like Ken and Bernie, I prefer an oil-based finish most of the time for turnings...generally Minwax Antique Oil Finish, which is just a wiping varnish. I apply on the lathe and then use friction to help "push" the finish with generated heat. I'll do 6-8 coats that way and then let it dry overnight. Once any parting off is done, I'll treat those areas manually. Buffing is about a week later.

I used a friction finish for about the first two or three things I turned and pretty much threw it away after that.

[David Walser]

Keith,

If I were limited to just one finish, it would be Deft's Clear Wood Finish (a brushable lacquer available in both gloss and semi-gloss). Deft's lacquer sets up quickly, allowing me to apply several light coats while the piece is still on the lathe. (Note: I live in Arizona. YMMV!) If I want more gloss, I can apply paste wax and buff. If I want less gloss, I can use steel wool to knock the finish down a tad. It's a very flexible and durable finish (not quite as durable as poly, but much more durable than shellac). It's also easy to maintain.

However, I'm not limited to just one finish. I use oil finishes a lot, mainly for things that will be handled a lot -- like tool handles or small boxes.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Keith - my finishes of choice have been Watco 'Natural' Danish Oil, Minwax Antique Oil and Minwax Wipe-On Gloss Poly. Lately I have only been using the Poly - just faster to apply, less time waiting for each coat to dry and even though I only use the gloss version - I can cut the glare down when needed. I wait for a minimum of a week (if a rush job) but usually let everything sit for a month or longer before buffing just to give the finish some time to cure.

[Toney Robertson]

Steve,

I have not used wipe on poly much but I can not get a good finish with it. Other people say that it is the easiest finish but obviously it is not idiot proof as I have proved.

I found instructions on the net and followed them except for the razor blade scraping but I could not figure out how to do that on a curved surface.

Any tips?

Toney

[Chuck Jones]

If I may piggy-back on Keith's thread...

I'm going to try MinWax wipe-on poly since I've heard of so many using it. Which is best, water based or oil based?

[Keith Spaniel]

I have not noticed my turnings losing the finish by being handled, but there are only a few friends handling them,then they sit on the shelf.I must admit that I am impatient to wait 8 hrs. before I finish a piece. I find that I try to finish a turning the same day I start on it..I might need to slow down and try some of your ideas. Thanks for your help. Keith

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to try MinWax wipe-on poly since I've heard of so many using it. Which is best, water based or oil based?

Oil if you want the benefit of the color. Just remember that you cannot buff out a polyurethane finish like you can a non-poly finish. The chief property that poly adds to the finish is abrasion resistance...because it was designed for floors. And buffing is abrasion...

[Neal Addy]

I use Seal-A-Cell and buff with the usual compounds. This gives a nice polished look that holds up well for shelf pieces. For pieces that are going to be handled I'll follow the Seal-A-Cell with several coats of Arm-R-Seal. This gives you a protected urethane finish.