Question on hanging Cyclone on Block Wall

[John Eaton]

Hey y'all,

I hope I'm asking this question in the right place - I've been working the last several months on a basement shop build-out. I've finally got the walls up, painted, electrical panel installed, etc and am now thinking about hanging my Grizzly G0440 cyclone. I need to put it as far as I can into a corner held up by concrete block. I considered using the stand but it really has a large footprint so I'd like to tuck everything into the corner as much as possible. My questions are regarding the best ways to hang this heavy sucker.

After giving up on the stand as being too large, I next thought about using expansion anchors for concrete as I've had good luck with these in the past - the issue is that they really aren't made for block. A few ideas have run through my mind including:

1. Using a wide french cleat (made from 2x12 SYP) with mushroom anchors drilled/driven into the block.

2. using a nailer board with multiple Tapcons spaced over the whole area with the mounting bolts coming through from the wall-side.

Before I commit to anything and have the unit fall on me during use, I thought I'd ask for some opinions. What are the merits of either method and/or, is there a better method?

-- Best, John

[Robert Payne]

I would consider hanging it on full height Unistrut Tapcon'd to the wall and adding some angle iron brackets out under the motor/blower to support the weight. If the Unistrut is high enough, you could tie it into the ceiling joists. Alternatively, you could build the same with 2 x material.

[Gary Lange]

I was thinking that you could run two or three 2" X 4" pieces from the floor the the ceiling against the wall held in place with concrete nails then attach a piece of 3/4" Plywood to them and then the G0440. Seems to me that it would hold up very well.

[Jack Porter]

John,
Is the CMU wall grouted or are the cells open? If the block is grouted, you can use either mechanical anchors or epoxy anchors, hilti makes plenty of types and I think the epoxy type is available at the BORG. If the block is hollow you can try tapcons, but you might want to check the allowable capacity of the screw, or Hilti makes an anchor for hollow block walls (its epoxy with a screen insert), it's the HIT HY 20 adhesive anchoring system.

[Bartee Lamar]

Check this out... complete set of pics for a cyclone install, bolted to the wall....

I used toggle bolts on 2x4s to block wall for a G0441.

Be glad to add any info you want after look at the pictures.

Here is the link to the album (http://picasaweb.google.com/bartee/GrizzlyG0441CycloneDustCollectionInstallation)

[jerry nazard]

I agree with Jack on the epoxy. Use screen tubes if the block is not grouted. I would not use Tapcons in hollow block for any load bearing purpose. If you can thru-bolt a french cleat from the other side using an opposing plate, that would work also. You are mounting a high vibration machine and do not have a wide range of fasteners to choose from. The epoxy with threaded rod would be my choice. Good luck!

-Jerry

[Peter Quinn]

I like toggle bolts for block walls. Throws the load over the greatest possible area. Size the bolts diameter appropriately to handle double the static load. If vibration is an issue consider using some 1/8" neoprene gasket material between the steel mounting bracket and the block. It creates considerable vibration isolation. My compressor sits on vibration isolation pads, and my mortiser is bolted to concrete using a neoprene isolation gasket. I got gasket material in sheets from my local plumbing supply store.

[John Eaton]

Unfortunately the opposite side is underground so through-bolting won't work and for some reason using some type of glue doesn't resonate with the idea of a heavy, vibrating unit in my book. I think I'm going with Bartee's approach - I'll let you guys know how it turns out - there goes another weekend! I'll post some pics.

-- John

[Doug Shepard]

I'm using a wide mounting board with long wood screw on the top edge and tapcons on the lower edge into the wall.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=41911

[Bruce Wrenn]

My first choice would be Alligator Anchors from Toggler. Fasten All, and Grainger stock them. They have the greatest holding power. Several years back, I built some storage cabinets in local YMCA. They are used to store printed goods. Cabinets were 32" deep, and 32" high. They were locate above a vending machine area. Total length of run was 14'. They had a total load capacity of about two tons (4000 pounds). Built up steel frame for boxes to slip into. Fastened the steel frames to the block wall with Alligator brand fasteners, using # 12 screws. I don't think your cyclone will be anywhere close to 4000 pounds, so they should work just fine.

[Burt Alcantara]

Make sure you've got insulation between the cyclone and wall. Mine is mounted directly to a wall and the vibration goes thru the entire house. I'm planing on taking it off the wall and mounting on a stand alone base.

Cyclones sound like cyclones -- LOUD!

Burt

[John Eaton]

After thinking about this a bit, taking measurements and allowing for insulation for noise/vibration, etc, it makes more sense to go back to the Grizzly stand. It actually takes up less space than all of the above and I don't have to worry about it falling off the wall. I have ordered the G7160 Machine mounts/leveling pads (coudln't believe they were so expensive at $125 a set and I know if I searched around a bit I probably could have gotten them cheaper, but I just want to get this done so I can finish). Once I started thinking about building a frame to isolate the noise, it started getting kooky as the filter is where much of the sound is generated - building someing around it exceeded the footprint of the available stand so it made more sense to go in that direction. I'm continuing with the build and intend to put the bottom legs on at the end (I've got the unit and top of the stand suspended so it'll be easier to install the bottom legs - I'd doing this without help so I'm having to use some ingenuity).

Thanks once again for everyone's help and comments.

-- John

[Rich Harris]

John,
I just bought the exact same setup with the stand. And vibration is a definite issue. Send back the feet to grizzly and go to the hardware store. By four 1/2" x 3" Carriage bolts, eight nuts and a set of 1" heavy duty rubber feet like they use on crutches(but heavier constructed). Cut the rubber feet short (this allows you to get the nut closer to the head of the bolt), put the head of the carriage bolts in the rubber cup. run a nut down each bolt the put them throught the holes in the bottom of the leg. Add the remaining nuts. Now you can level the stand and have great vibration damping all for less than $10 from Ace Hardware.

[Steve Kohn]

McMaster has a very good selection of isolation damping systems on their website. I hung my DC from a regular frame wall and it made a considerable difference in the noise level.