Bowl Signing

[Tom Bucanan]

How many of you guys use wood burning pens to sign the bottom of your bowls? I have been using a thin sharpie to sign the bottoms of my bowls, but I think I want something more permanent. So, if you use wood burners, which one do you recommend? How easy are they to write with? Any tips or advice?

[Bill Bolen]

No burner, I do use a dremel engraver mostly...Bill..

[Scott Hubl]

I did not like using a Sharpie either, so I bought the Detail Master, the Excalibre.
Love it heats up to 2000 degrees in about 7 heartbeats or less.
You can sign your work and do alot of burning detail work on your turnings too.:cool:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Shopping%20Spree%20Woodcraft/detail-master-2-closeup.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Shopping%20Spree%20Woodcraft/detail-master-3.jpg

I have 4 or 5 pens for it with permanent tips and I just bought the pen that you can switch tips with.

They say (Pyographers) that the permanent tipped pens are better with better contact and better heating.

I havent tried the new pen yet as I need to get some tips for it.

Yes its costly but I'll Never have to upgrade later, company is Local to me if I ever did need service, gets good reviews with Pyographers. Can do alot more than just signing my work with it.

I am real Happy with it.

To add more interest I also bought a Automach Power Carving System. (BTW Both can be had at Woodcraft or many places online.)
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/assets/images/product/JapanWoodworker/18.200.30.jpg

I bought Trent Bosch's DVD's and decided I wanted to try out some of his style turnings in the near future, so I started gearing up tool wise to do so.:D

Check out his "Vessels of Illusion" Cool stuff.:cool:

[tim mathis]

i've had my eye on a power carver.

[Johnny Kleso]

I have a Pryor letter stamping set with a two line group holder to stamp my work..
http://www.pryormarking.com/products/type/index.html
http://www.pryormarking.com/products/type/img/type.JPG
comes in 3-4 sizes and can be raw stamped..

They are about $5 a letter and $80 for a holder which is why using them for burning stamp is great if you dont own a set or holder..
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=2595&PARTPG=GSDRVSM&PMT4NO=47282524&PMITEM=08944688&PMCTLG=00&PMT4TP=*LTIP


You can also buy 2-3 cheap eBay letter stamps for about $20 each and use copper wire to bundle them and heat in the over at 450* and use it as a burner stamp

Pryor sells single letters but is more expensive than the import sets.. Aslo any of these steel stamps if heated over 350* will ruin the temper of the steel and if you have any plans to hammer stamp steel after you have used them to burn wood they will not hold up long as they will have been made softer...

[Neal Addy]

I use a Razortip burner and pens and love 'em. Their pens are top notch and will fit (or can be adapted to) most burner units on the market. Colewood is another good brand to check out.

I've noticed that Excalibur is hard to find these days. Not sure what that means. Neither Treeline nor Amazon carry them. Did they go out of business?

Here's a good source for information and great customer service.
http://www.nedraspyrography.com/WoodburnersPensAccessories.htm

Usual disclaimer: I'm not affiliated, just a satisfied customer.

[Mike Vickery]

I have a burnmaster Hawk, but I do not use it to sign my work. I have had no luck getting a signature that I am happy with. Like others I use a Dremel engraver and metallic wax to fill.
http://www.distinctiveturnings.com/tutorials/SigningYourWoodturnings.pdf

[Wayne Bitting]

My wife bought me the "cheapo" burning kit from AC Moore/Micheal's craft store and used the 40% off coupon from the newspaper ad they have every week. In the end it was about $11, included thin and fat tips and a tip for transfering laser toner from paper to other surfaces. So far I've only used the thin tip to sign my turnings, but have have been very happy with it.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hi Tom
I have used the burner for signing and additional info, for many years.
I just build one, as I am che..., ummm.... frugal,:D, used a large transformer that came out of a ships radar equipment, works OK, I have heard good things about the Razertip woodburning system, though they are not cheap, you get what you pay for ;).
It is not always easy to use, woods with soft and hard, early/late wood, will give you a hard time writing, it is also not as easily to read on dark wood.
But given the other options, I find this the best for what I want. :)

[Cyril Griesbach]

I use the Colewood burner to sign.

[Ron McKinley]

Here's one I picked up the other day in Harbor Freight. It's much easier to control than any other engraver I've tried. ......Ron

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98227

[Jim Underwood]

I've also been using an engraver I bought at Harbor Freight. It's different that the two that are shown there now.

I turn it on the lowest setting and take my time. Works pretty well. Hard to control direction sometimes though.

[Tom Green]

Does anyone use the Cub Woodwriter that craft supplies sells for $85 ?
Tom

[Nancy Laird]

Tom, this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=637911#post637911, has a picture of the logo that I laser-engrave on the bottom of my turned pieces (all two of them so far). If you know someone with a laser, or if there is a company in your neck of the woods, should be a snap to get one done for your shallower pieces. About the max that will go under the beam is 6-7", and that's a tight squeeze.

[Mark Hix]

I use a small burner inexpensive burner...of course, my last name only has 6 straight lines....no curves to mess up.