Plans for a flip over tool cart?

[Wade Lippman]

A few years ago some magazine had plans for a power tool cart that carries one tool on the top and one on the bottom. It rotates and locks in position to use either tool.

I am cleaning up my shop and it would be great to put my drum sander and planer on such a cart. I never use both at the same time, they are about the same size, and neither would care about being upside down. But I can't remember where I saw the plans.

Anyone? Thanks.

I actually tried my planer on a shelf below the sander, but it was a real PITA to use the planer that low down.

[Les Zielinski]

Fine Woodworking's Tools & Shops annual issue No. 195 (Winter 2007/2008) on page 51 shows fairly detailed rolling, rotating planer cart.
There is a decent drawing with some dimensions and materials used.
It has been designed to work with one tool only but you should be able to modify it (I think). I did not build one and I am very new to woodworking so do not consider this as a recomendation.
Hope this helps.
Les

[Dewey Torres]

Wood magazine OCT 2003 page 48

http://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/idea-shop-52/?page=10

I built this and have it in my shop now so if you have questions ... shoot!

[Wes Bischel]

Wade,
I used a modified version of these plans:
http://www.woodstore.net/swivtoolcab.html
My original post is here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11844
Plus there are a few others - do a search on flip top, a few should come up.

Wes

[glenn bradley]

I built one based on a lot of different versions I found. I use it for my sander and planer for the same reasons you site. . . what a coincidence. Unless you have the only "standard" shop I've ever seen, a measured plan isn't much good as it must be so customized to your shop that most of the sizes become moot.

A couple features I am glad I did use are the eye bolts for locking the top and a frame-center, removable top so I could put t-nuts in place for the tool. This worked out well as the pics show my CMS and planer; now the CMS has a new home and my sander lives with the planer.

[Stan Smith]

This is the one that I built. I have a Makita 13" portable planer on one side and a portable delta 6" benchtop jointer on the other. Modify as needed, but the original plan dimensions worked for me.

[Don Abele]

A flip-top stand is on my to-do list. One thing I've never liked about the ones I've seen is the method to lock the top in place.

Glenn, the eye bolts are an AWESOME idea. I've already copied the photos to my "to do" folder. Thanks for the idea.

Be well,

Doc

[Dewey Torres]

A couple features I am glad I did use are the eye bolts for locking the top and a frame-center, removable top so I could put t-nuts in place for the tool. This worked out well as the pics show my CMS and planer; now the CMS has a new home and my sander lives with the planer.

Thanks, I am going to modify mine for these.

[Jim Heffner]

The plan I think that you are referring is this one. I have this set and made one of them for my shop and it works pretty well. " The Complete Small Shop" from August Home Publishing has it listed on page 8 of that publication. I have my chop saw on one side and my lunchbox planer on the other. I like it mainly for two reasons, two tools in one place and both
are mobile! Jim Heffner

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm in the process of finishing the Wood Magaizine version myself. I, too, did not like the latch for the top per the plans. I'm planning on using the widest barrel bolt latch that will fit on the ends of the sides (not too much different than Glenn's picture above). I think the trick to mounting them will be to mount all the hardware (both halves of 2 pairs) on one side then flip the top and mount the latches where they line up with the catches on one side, and the catches where they line up with the latches on the other side.

The other change I made to the plan came from another post. That gentleman used a threaded rod that ran from one side to the other as the pivot arm and double nutted the ends. I'm going to do the same, except that I will run the threaded rod through a metal tube so the threads don't eat away at the plywood. There will be pieces for the top and the sides separate by the washers as described in the plans. (I used a 1/4" round nose bit to route the channel in the top)