adjustable pen mandrels....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The LOML is back and is insisting I get to turning on some Christmas gifts and she's developed a list.

Anybody use an adjustable pen mandrel and are they really worth it? I have a regular mandrel and already have had to replace the rod because I think I put too much pressure on it with the tailstock live center and warped it. I was thinking maybe having an adjustable mandrel might eliminate some of the whip and give me better results providing I don't apply too much pressure with the tailstock.

Any opinions pro..or con?

Thanks in advance....

[Bill Kesler]

I have an adjustable mandrel and to be honest I don't end up adjusting it all that often. Was it worth the money? Not sure. My old one had to be installed in a Jacobs chuck and this one fits the Morse taper so in that respect it was. You're right about using less pressure with the tail piece. Hope this has been of some help.

Bill

[robert hainstock]

I use both and have no particular preference. the wobble can be tested by rolling the shaft on a table saw surface. Maybe The best way to know if it should be replaced. :)
Bob

[Mark Hix]

I have an adjustable. I never adjust it. It is easier to slide extra bushins on as spacers or take some off.

[Jess Wetherhold]

I bought one after I had accidentally bent my other one. I find it very handy. I don't have to use a mile of bushings for smaller projects. Also, I find that when turning smaller things (keychains etc..,) after adjusting the length there is no play in the shaft. So, IMHO it works well for my needs and I have not destroyed it yet.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Depends on the pen you are going to turn Ken. I do find it worth the money especially when you turn Wall Streets, Sierras, etc. that use one blank. I use mine a lot when doing these styles of pens.

[Mark Patoka]

I have one but have never readjusted it once it was set. If I turn something with only one blank or two shorter blanks, I just use extra bushings or old tubes to fill in the gap.

As far as controlling the whip, I just learned to not put too much pressure on the mandrel with the tailstock.

[Daniel Heine]

Ken,

I turn most of my pens without a mandrel. I put a dead center in the headstock, a live center in the tail stock, and put both of those 60 degree points into the end of my busings. When I tried it the first time, I could not beleive the difference it made in the quality of the pens I was making. You can only turn one half of the pen at a time, but the results are well worth it. No more out of round blanks, etc.

If I have to use a mandrel, I put a jacobs chuck in the headstock, and hold the shaft in the jaws of the chuck. This is a big improvement alone over the typical MT mandrels. This way, if you need less mandrel, you put a longer length of the rod into the chuck, and vice-versa.

Good Luck,
Dan

[Wayne Bitting]

Ken - I'll keep this one short: I always use it at the correct length and glad I switched over!

[Paul Douglass]

I have adjustable, which I adjust for each pen in order to keep it as short as possible. Lately I have been making cartridge pens so I only turn one half. I do it on a mandrill with a spacer at each end, this gives me a little more working room, but sure makes a short mandrill and eliminates wobble. From now on I think I will turn all pens this way.

[robert hainstock]

Ken,
I use both an adjustable and a Straight mandrel and cannot remember an out of round pen. The live center only has to be snug, not forced. I bring up the tailstock to cantact, lock it in place, and touch op the handwheel. Works for me.:cool::):)
Bob

[Grant Wilkinson]

Ken: I turn most of my pens between centres now, but I have an adjustable mandrel that is handy for one tube kits. Another option is to buy just and mandrel rod and chuck it into a Beall chuck if you have one.

[Rick Gibson]

Ken I have three types. One with a set screw which I never use any more because the set screw pushes the mandrel off center. One where the rod screws in and I just keep my B mandrel in it. My adjustable I use all the time although I use the rod from one of the others with it. I only turn one blank at a time and this virtually eliminates any whip. Also one of the rods I have has flats near one end for a wrench when screwing it in the arbor. I slip a small piece of wire in the flat and can use it like a pin chuck. I'll never part with my adjustable.

[Anthony Penchetta]

I use a Beall collect chuck which is very handy and have several adjustable mandrels.

I use this one purchased from AZ Sil. works good, well made about 27 bucks.

I read a good review about this one offered by Pedigree, Just might be in my tool box soon.

http://www.pedigreewoodcrafts.com/

http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/

http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Pen_Madrels.htm

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Well..the LOML has decided that I need to make some pens, bottlestoppers and a small bowl for her Mother to use as donations for her church's bazaar. Well.....first I would like to see the look on my MIL's face when she opens the package and finds those bottlestoppers in there. I'd pay a pretty penny for a photograph of that Kodak moment!

My CFO has given me the go-ahead to order some turning supplies so I will be making an order shortly but.....

I had about 10 slim-line pen kits in hand and some blanks. So today using my standard mandrel and watching how much pressure I put on it with the tailstock. I turned 4 slimlines. No whip.....no oval pens. I think I will order an adjustable pen mandrel for future use, however.

2 more slimlines to go and a couple of Euros and then I'll post a photo.

I did try something new, however. I used the bushings for a "get close" eye-ball diameter and then used dial calipers for the final diameter. I purposely oversized them by about 0.007 while using my skew. Then after sanding through micro-mesh 3600, I had the best fit I've achieved so far. I was surprised how well and how close I could get to the exact diameter I was looking for by using my skew. I am a skew addict. Great tool once you put enough time in to become familiar with it!

[John Kaner]

Anthony, Thanks for the link.

The Keyless is $49. and the Keyed is $29. Looks like they drilled out Jacobs Chucks to make them. What a great idea!