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Brian Peters
07-30-2008, 5:55 PM
I have a jet 1.5hp shaper, baby of the bunch and the top is very small, I mean they could not have designed it any smaller. :confused: So I laminated some baltic birch up with a glossy laminate and cut it out so that it wrapped around the shaper top. My only problem now is how to attach it to the cast iron top. First thought was to use steel angle and screw it to the bottom of the 1" laminated top and then drill tap and bolt it to the cast iron top. No go, I can't even get 3/4 angle to fit in there. The shaper top is 1-3/8" thick and the skin around the outside edges is 1/4" thick. Any ideas would be appreciated!

http://www.northwoodtools.com.au/img/productImages/JET-GM/GPW-JWS-22CS_sml.bmp

Brad Shipton
07-30-2008, 6:41 PM
If you only use a single thickness of BB you might need to build a wooden frame to make sure the extension does not sag. On my old general I had mounted an extension to the back, but I used solid 8/4 Maple that I milled to match the table thickness. My old machine had some threaded holes in the rails, so I countersunk the extension to suite the longest 3/8" (not sure) bolts I could find. You will also probably find the table is attached to the base with angles on each side. You could fabricate a piece of steel with the same bolt holes to re-attach the table, but make it longer to connect the table extensions. If you dont mind drilling the table rails, it is pretty easy if you make the extensions thick enough. Pick some spots to drill the table and drill the extensions to match. You will need to route out a spots for nuts.

Good luck.

Peter Quinn
07-30-2008, 7:35 PM
I'd tap the edge of the iron top and bolt the angle iron to it setting it about 1/2" to 3/4" from the top height, then rabbit a bit out of the bottom of the laminate extension top so it sits flush. You could build in some leveling screws. Think router table plate bit a little bigger and in reverse.

I'd probably put a leg in each corner of the extension table with an adjustable foot to hold the weight. If that won't work for you than perhaps use the approach above, with a piece of angle iron tapped to the front and back of the iron table that span the length of the extension table, and consider bolting two irons to the bottom of the base to increase its foot print. A bigger extension table may make that shaper a bit tipsy in use.

Peter Quinn
07-30-2008, 7:37 PM
Another consideration coming from a certified tool junkie...perfect time to start shopping for a bigger shaper or some old iron, like a Moak double spindle machine, now that's a big top!

Brian Peters
07-31-2008, 6:44 AM
Thanks for the replies so far. It is 3/4" thick baltic birch laminated equally 1/8" for each side. On the bottom around the outside edge I screwed on steel channel making it perfectly flat and quite strong. I will try to drill and tap the table edge and as a good suggestion maybe rabbet in and set the steel angle down a bit, set it on top of it and bolt it down. Then use two supports on either side. Thanks, any more suggestions welcome.

Rod Sheridan
07-31-2008, 9:06 AM
Brian, I would replace the angles that attach the top to the cabinet with longer pieces.

Or purchase a cast iron wing for the shaper........Rod.

Brian Peters
07-31-2008, 9:16 PM
Well I got it done tonight. I ended up taking the advice, rabbeting a 3/8" deep mortise for the 3/4x3/4 steel angle to sit in. I drilled and bolted the angle to the left and right side of the shaper table. (predrilled everything on the angle ahead of time) I left the extension top 1/8 below the table and cut shims to bring it up perfectly level with no in/outfeed bumps :). It's not huge, but neither is the shaper, not like the 3hp and the 1/4hp feeder.. but for me it works especially for raising panels. :D sorry the pics are blurry, cell phone pics was lazy tonight to grab a camera