Drill press table question

[Louis Brandt]

I’m considering buying a drill press table (with fence, etc.) for my 10 inch bench top drill press, but I’m wondering whether I’ll find many uses for it. Since all the tables that I’ve seen seem to be very short in length and not capable of supporting long pieces, are they really a worthwhile addition to a drill press? I’d be interested to hear what some of you use drill press table for.
Louis

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I built my own table from plans found in Shop Notes, total cost about $20.

I built the table primarily to drill cabinet doors for European Hinges. I also use Norms jig for shelve pins which uses a plunge router. To make the jig the holes have to be spaced exactly the drill press table simplifies this task.

Greg

[Danny Thompson]

I use mine all the time and love it.

The two biggest benefits are the fence, which helps ensure alignment of holes drilled in series (as well as helps steady the workpiece during drilling single holes), and the sacrificial insert, which helps prevent blowout during drill-through operations.

I built my own, mostly for the experience of it, but really liked the WoodPecker offering, primarily due to its low-profile fence design:

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html#1141

[Roy Wall]

Louis,

I think that using a rear fence and a stop block or two....you will find indexing holes to exact locations very easy and repeatable.

Yes - you do want a larger table.

Try finding a cabinet shop in your area that throws out "countertop sink cut-outs"......generally 22x33.....these make great tables. Clamp a board down for a fence and clamp another stop block to the fence -- try boring a few holes and such. This will give you the ideas you need to see how far to want to "perfect" the DP table.

There are some good ones here on SMC if you do a search....

[Art Moore]

They're excellent for drilling holes in a perfectly straight line, or for any drill press operation requiring precision measurements.

Build your own and save some bucks. I used a 24x16 piece of 3/4 MDF, routed slots in it for a low-profile fence and used the core of this fence kit:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=97385

I removed the aluminum fence faces and cut 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF the same height as the fence core (2") and attached them. Now I have a low-profile fence with dust collection on my drill press. ;) (The aluminum faces, stop block, and extension from the kit now reside on my V27 Miter gauge.)

For the sacrificial insert, I routed out a circle in the table, rabbeted the cutout, and made some circular inserts to fit. I then routed two slots and installed t-track from front to back to hold clamps for the workpieces. For protection, the table is finished in 3 coats of clear poly, and is rubbed with a layer of Johnson's Paste Wax.

Cost... around 50 bucks, not counting materials on hand. Return... the enjoyment of completing your own project to YOUR specs. :D

[Mike Cornelsen]

Other Creeker's have pointed out the Grizzly H7827. For $30 it might be worth a test drive. I haven't seen anyone post an opinion on it.

[John Thompson]

Fence.. indispensable.. table in my case indispensable with the aid of some additional support stands. I often run straight line holes in a piece of 7' long stock for dog holes in one piece for both sides of a work-bench top. It then gets glued in the lamination with the other pieces.

Even with short pieces I find a table and fence a must. Metal-work.. not needed and I just take off the quick release bolts..

Sarge..