More table saw advice needed....

[Thomas Marr]

My neighbor and good friend has a Unisaw with the Excalibur sliding table attached. I really like this setup for safty reasons. However, sliding tables are VERY expensive and this is forcing me to reconsider my TS decision. I’m now thinking about buying a “basic” TS (1023SL with MS rebate) and adding a sliding table, splitter (Biesemeyer “riving knife”) and overhead guard/DC. Some questions:

Are there alternatives to the Biesemeyer splitter that I should consider?

What are the best sliding table options for this saw (obviously, the
Grizzly sliding table accessory will not work on their left tilt saws).

Are there other things I should consider?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Are there alternatives to the Biesemeyer splitter that I should consider?I won't put one on my saw unless I know the work is going to be a problem and I'l be doing a lot of it. I drop little wood wedges into the kerf aft of the cut if I think there's a need.


What are the best sliding table options for this saw (obviously, the Grizzly sliding table accessory will not work on their left tilt saws).I'm going to say none. This because the aftermarket sliding tables are finicky and inaccurate requiring inordinate levels of operator attention. Some folks have figured out how to use 'em for production sheet stock work.


Why not save for a real slider. They have some great fence systems and the sliding table is right up against the blade. That last factor alone is a big deal.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I have the Merlin splitter on my General 650, and an Excalibur over arm guard. Wouldn't be without them, or equivalent.

That said, if I were going to buy a saw again, I would purchase a slider such as the Hammer K3 Basic, K3 Winner, or K3 Winner with comfort package, depending upon the application.

Of course the Hammer K3 isn't a lot of money less than the B3 which gives a sliding table saw and shaper, something that I'm looking at in the future.

There are many other manufacturers such as Felder, Mini Max etc.

In my opinion Cliff is correct about saving some more money and getting a good slider, you won't regret it.

The North American table saw is basically a 50 or 60 year old design that only rips well, and it doesn't rip as well as a European slider. Once you start talking cross cutting, the NA machines aren't even in the same league, same as for safety features.

Have fun researching your new machine.......Regards, Rod.

[Thomas Marr]

Regarding the European sliders, how much to they cost on average ($5K, $10K)? Given that EVERYTHING from Europe is more expense (especially given the exchange rates these days), I don't see how I could afford it for a hobbist.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Thomas, I don't know what a Unisaw costs, however I have the General 650 with an Excalibur overarm guard.

In Canada and the US the costs are as follows for the General/Excalibur equipment

General 650 saw $2,949

Excalibur Guard $379

Sliding Table $600

Total $3,928

Hammer K3 basic $4,843 (Canadian)

Hammer K3 Winner $5,305 (Canadian)

As you can see, not much different from a premium cabinet saw with an add on sliding table and guard. Note that the Hammer prices above are for Canada, they should be slightly lower in the US because they don't have to be CSA approved machines for the US market.

Regards, Rod.

[John Thompson]

Grizzly and Rojek (Tech-Mark Industries) both have sliders under $5 K. Have a look. And my reccomendation on the splitter would be the Shark Guard which does have over-head dust capability.

Sarge..

[Frederick Rowe]

How about adding a Jessem Mast-R-Slide. My overhead dust collection is the Shark Guard.