3/8 maple for cabinet.

[Keith Marben]

hi all

I just sawed up some 3/8ths inch thick maple which is now stacked and (air) drying. I plan on using it for the paneling on a small cabinet.

I decided on 3/8s cause I want it sturdy enough to omit any plywood. but I still want it light enough to somewhat easy to move if i need to. The frame is basically 4 quarters maple.

How should I go about making the panels? I was thinking some kind of ship lap, kind of a slight tongue and groove. I would like to not use any nails if possible. prob just wood glue.

Am I on the right track? what would I use for the concave and convex edges? a pair of scrapers with the correct matching shapes?

Maybe this belongs in the design forum, not sure.

[Keith Marben]

bump.

Im not exactly a professional woodworker here. so bead and cove wouldnt work for a panel?

someone must have a comment.

[Steve Clardy]

You could groove each panel side and use a full length spline of the same species.

[Frank Drew]

Keith,

As commonly understood, ship lap (half lap) and tongue and groove are different joints, although either would be suitable for what I think is your intended purpose. However, if you plan to glue your boards together you can simply joint the edges and glue them as is, without joints such as ship lap or t & g which would only make your job more complicated without any added structural benefit. For looks though, featuring the joints could be a nice touch.

Could you explain a bit more your question about convex and concave edges -- I don't understand what you're driving at. Ditto your question about bead and cove -- are you referring to what's sometimes called bead board?

[Ralph Wiggum]

Some things to think about, how big of a pannel is the back going to be? What kind of look are you going for? If it's not that big of a pannel I would edge joint and glue up the stock to make the needed size pannel. Then would put 1/4 inch rabbet arond the edges of the pannel and let it float in a suitable grove in the case of the cabinet. If it's a larger piece and the back is going to be exposed, ie doors with glass in them or open shelves beaded boards might look better. With 3/8 stock you are probably going to have to do your tongue and grove cutting on the table saw, as most of the tongue and groove router bits I've seen are for 3/4 stock. I'd then round over the edges to get the bead look.
Hope this helps some :)

[Keith Marben]

thanks for the comments.

I guess I will just edge joint and glue the panels up that way.

I have the bottom frame glued up, and the front frame glued up. The front will have 2 doors im thinking with glued panels floating in the frames. same for the sides, top and back. the bottom panel will prob just be glued to the frame inside since it doesnt need the look.

Anyway. I am pretty new to wood working, except from doing hardwood floors. which is quite a different approach from cabinet or furniture building.

Either way its kind of odd to me to think of making the panels first then framing them into the cabinet. by all instincts I want to build the frames first then just slap the panel boards on like siding a house.

thanks again