"Folger Burst!" Hollow Form

[Ken Glass]

Hey Turners,
I was reluctant to post this HF, because it had cracked so badly coming out of the DNA and paper bag method of drying on this green turning. It is Heritage Birch from a tree the neighbor lost to storm damage. I posted it a couple weeks ago before I finished it and got a lot of great ideas, on how to save it. I am not sure I actually did save it. You be the judge. This is my second HF and my third turning. I used Folgers Coffee crystals and epoxy to fill the cracks so I'm calling it the "Folgers Burst!" LOL. I am still a raw amateur, but I am really having fun. I have yet to master deep Hollowing, because I have only one Hollowing Tool, the Hunter, and even though I like it, its too short to reach far into this HF. I did buy another longer Hollowing Tool from Lamar Sherrill, but am having trouble getting an edge on the cutters. No instructions came with it. I mostly used a Bowl Gouge, so the sides are no less than 1/2" except for the collar which is probably too thin at 3/16". You can see the foot is still on the piece as I am not sure how I'm going to finish the bottom since the collar warped a little. I made a Longworth Chuck that's 18" in diameter, but I think with the warping it won't hold the piece in place enough the remove the foot and shape the bottom. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I put a couple coats of Tung Oil on it, then used my Beall Buffing system to finish it. I would really like your comments. Thanks.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Ken - I would say that all your time and effort really paid off as this is a very nice looking hollow form and a great save! Beautiful wood and all the coffee crystals highlight the cracks and bring them to life!

As far as finishing off the bottom - I would use the longworth chuck and turn a small cone for the center of the chuck. The cone can be double sticky taped into place and would hold the hollow form off of the chuck just enough to overcome any problems caused by the warping. The warping is actually a really neat effect and adds even more charactor to the piece - as if that were possible!

As far as thickness - usually this is something that comes with time but in your case you are definately limited by the tools that you have. A bowl gouge just can't get in there like a hollowing tool can. Hope you are able to figure out a way to sharpen your hollowing tool - it will help you out a lot!

Very nice hollow form! Looking forward to seeing your next one!

[Phillip Bogle]

I am of the opinion that flawless is boring. While I am not a turning wizard, I have made a nice living in art for 25 years. What attracts me to wood is the unpredictable nature of the medium. I love looking at the flow and ebb of hard years in the elements, reflected in the grain and structure of a natural product we know as wood. You have done a very nice job with a challenging piece of wood, captured the beauty of the natural structure and made wonderful surfaces to examine. There might be what some call flaws, but the target of perfection that we aim at is supposed to be elusive. Were any of us ever to attain the perfect finished piece I think we would lose interest in the art. I also think that what you might call a flaw are really nice features that let the wood speak for itself. Yes there may be cracks and it may not hold water, but it doesn't have to. It is art, expression to be enjoyed.

For my part -- Well done! I enjoy looking at your project.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ken I have to agree with Phillip. I think we take a piece of wood and make whatever. If it has some imperfections so be it. You have created a beautiful piece and sounds a little like me. I hate giving up on a piece of wood.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ken,

Excellent save and HF!

Here's a tip. Take some rigid 2" foam insulation. I buy mine at the local lumber yard. Cut some squares say 9" in diameter. Using double sided tape glue enough of the squares together to hold your HF off the base of your Longworth chuck. Using double-sided tape, tape the squares as close to center on the base of you Longworth chuck. Now turn them to a cone that will allow you to place the HF over the cone but the cone will not let the rim of the HF touch the base. Loosely put on the 2nd piece of the chuck and use the mark in the tenon and the tailstock to true up the HF before tighting the chuck. Now tighten the chuck. Spin it up and make sure the HF is aligned correctly. You may have to readjust it a couple of times to get it centered perfectly. Once it's centered correctly, turn off the tenon.

Nice save Ken!

[Ken Glass]

Hey Gang,
Thanks for the tips. I decided to take a cone shaped wooden Mandrel, I made for Bottle stoppers, that was 3-1/2" in diameter, that fit my SN2 chuck jaws, and use double stick tape on the cone to hold the collar of my HF in place. I used my tail stock snugged into the tenon. It was a breeze to part of the tenon and finish the bottom. I really appreciate all the help, and the encouraging comments from everyone. Thanks.

[robert hainstock]

Some people call what Picasso did art? so WHen you cteate a piece, it is art and you will be your most severe critic most often. I share Stev's like of the slightly hollowed foot and you have found a way to finich yours. Attaboy! :):)
Bob