$20 Workbench Top Good Deal?

[brett gallmeyer]

So after reading my local classifieds today at work I called a couple about a butcher block table for $20.

Needless to say right after work I went to see it, and pick it up.

I've been wanting to build a traditional workbench for a while now, i've contiplated pine, hickory, red oak, not maple $$.

Here's what I got for $20.

It measures 80"x32"x3"

I'm not sure what kind of wood it is I will plane a bit off and post some new pics for some veteran advice. It does have a cup across the width. one end is about 1/16 off on one side and 1/4 off on the other, the other end is off by 1/4 and 1/2". I'm planning on building a router sled flattening jig. I'm thinking I'm going to have to flatten both the top and the bottom which will reduce the thickness down to about 2 1/2". I was thinking of making my final dimmensions 6'x2'x whatever thickness i can get.

I would appreciate any imput on this prodject I plan on posting a new thread once I begin flattening and construction. I plan on making my own twin screw end vise. details to come on that! I was thinking of using an old columbia or wilson metal face vise on the front.

Any questions please ask, and comments or suggestions are more than welcome!

Thanks, Brett G.

[Rick Potter]

Looks like you scored on this one.

Rick Potter

[Don Eddard]

Congrats. That's a heck of a steal IMHO.

[John Keeton]

Looks like the top has taken on moisture and caused the cupping. Notice the glue joints show a little separation.

I wouldn't rush the flattening - let it rest in a dry environment and see if it levels out a little on it's own. Probably won't completely fix the problem, but would be a shame to "level" it, just to have it cup in reverse when it dries out. Can you put a moisture meter on both sides in several places?

Nice buy - no matter the outcome! It will make a very workable top.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I'd say getting just about anything for $20 in this hobby is a steal.

[Jim Heffner]

Looks as if you scored well on that one for $20.00 for sure! It appears to be made of maple and is in good shape. I believe that size of top was originally made to be used in a restaurant for use by good cooks or chefs.
Should make a good solid worksurface and last for years.

[Greg Cole]

I'd take it at that price!
If you really want to build the router sled to flatten it, by all means g'ahead.
I'd look around locally for a shop with a wide belt sander.... it'll save you ALOT of time you won't have the router sled hanging on a shop wall for a year before you need it again, most likely anyway. I personally dislike building jigs that get used all but never.
The advise from John about letting it acclimate is a good point too.
Depending on how you attach the top to a base, "some" (definately not 1/2") warp can be rectified.... but I'd just as soon start out flat as seasonal movements can cause bench tops to crown, bow etc....
Addiding a skirt of wider stock will also help with long term stability, just make sure to leave the ability to clamp things to the bench top if you add a skirt.
Ya have a good start on a real bench there..... and the best part is the price.

Greg

[brett gallmeyer]

I do have a very cheap mosture meter so i will check it over. The guy i bought if from bought it 10 years ago from a countertop place. he used it to butcher elk. so maby that patena is elk blood... new finish idea... lol.

I figured after being 10 years old there was no need to let it aclimate. but i will follow your advice and let it sit. I know of three cabinet shops in town that I could possible pay to use there belt sander. Since Im planning on making te top smaller, should i cut it down before or after flattening it? is 24x72'' a good size for a traditional workbench?

I agree about the one use jig. but it beat my other idea of hand planing 1/2'' off. lol.

brett g.

[Bob Moyer]

My grandfather worked at a company that made these type of tops; most of the time they were made of Maple.

[Jim Becker]

Very nice deal!

I agree that you should not rush with the flattening. Let it sit a bit and don't flatten until it's fastened onto your bench structure. (With provision for lateral wood movement) That alone will take out a good bit of the cup.

[Glenn Clabo]

Brett,
Here's what I would do.
Build the base of your bench while the top does it's thing. Drill holes in ends of your base...in the middle. Drill/cut mounting "slots" on both ends of both sides of your base. Put the top on...and see if you can clamp it down to level in the middle. If you can...mount it in the middle solid...let it sit for a while and then mount it on the sides through the center of the slotted holes to allow for movement.

[Steve Sawyer]

Since Im planning on making te top smaller, should i cut it down before or after flattening it? is 24x72'' a good size for a traditional workbench?

Yes and yes. Longer is ok too if you have the room, 60" will do, but that's a little bit short for most folks.

Cutting it to width will remove some of the cup. Also that final 2" dimension you mention should be just about ideal for holding bench holdfasts. I just finished a bench a couple of months ago made of hard maple that came out to be about 2" thick and it's working great.

If you can't get access to a drum sander, the sled idea is a great technique, and the sled itself doesn't cost more than a couple of bucks to make from BORG poplar or even clear pine. The hardest part is getting your rails trued and mounted perfectly co-planar. However, using an "X" of carpet thread to adjust the (carefully jointed) rails will get them dead on the money.

[Lon Schleining]

Brett,

First thing I'd do is scrape the finish off down to bare wood. I'd bet there is finish on only one of the faces; probably the chief cause of the warp in the first place.

Then, around noon on a nice sunny warm day, place the slab on some grass in full sun.

Place it so the concave side is down on the grass and the convex side is up toward the sun.

I'd bet by the time you've sipped a glass of iced tea, the top will begin to move back toward being flat. Watch it closely. When it starts to move, it'll move pretty quickly. When it's flat again, take it inside and let it stabilize.

You may have to repeat this a couple of times to get it just right, but give it a try before you start removing any of the thickness.

When you finally get it flat again, store it so that air can circulate around all sides.

[Charlie Plesums]

If it is a well-cared for food prep counter, it will have mineral oil or vegetable oil soaked into the top surface. I use a cabinet scraper to clean my maple kitchen countertop... if you start sanding while the oil is still there, you will kill a lot of good sandpaper (and if you use someone's widebelt, you may have a very big bill for replacement belts).

I like Lon's idea about the sun and grass (note the grass part... that provides the moisture for the concave side). And note that the finish (or the cooking oil) needs to come off the top first.

[Jim Becker]

Charlie, I liked Lon's ice tea idea... LOL :D

[brett gallmeyer]

I've noticed several people have recomended attatching it to my base before trying to flatten it.... how am i supossed to attach it to a base when the bottome is so cupped? The way its sitting in the pics is the way that I plan on having it turned. The bottom has a few more knots in it.

So far thank you everyone for all the comments and suggestions.

Brett G.

[Rob Luter]

Brett -

I built my bench out of similar salvaged top material. It was cupped as well, so I ripped it apart in a couple spots at the glue lines, planed it flat, jointed the edges, and reglued. It made a huge difference. The end result turned out just fine.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=89361

[Jerome Hanby]

Rob,

That looks pretty snazzy!

[Rob Luter]

Snazzy is my middle name :D

[Jerome Hanby]

This is sort of on topic. How good (or bad) an idea is it to slice a 73" x 39" x1.5" counter top similar to the one mentioned here lengthwise, glue and stack it to make a slab almost 20" wide and 3" thick? After adding the banding and a tool tray that would work out to the dimensions i had in mind for a workbench.

Since everything is aligned the same direction, would that stacked joint have problems because of wood movement?

[Rob Luter]

Hey Jerome,

As it turns out, thats about what I did. My benchtop is two 1 3/4 inch slabs laminated together to make a 3 1/2" thick top. I made sure both were pretty flat then just used yellow glue and a whole bunch of cauls to spread out the clamping force. I used a circular saw and low angle jack plane to trim and shoot the ends square and flush, then put the maple skirt all the way around. Considering my skills are not shall we say fully developed :o I think it turned out well. No problems yet with movement.

[Greg Cole]

I've noticed several people have recomended attatching it to my base before trying to flatten it.... how am i supossed to attach it to a base when the bottom is so cupped?

As Rob aka Snazzy (nice bench BTW) says a couple posts above, use cauls to clamp the top to the base to force it flat or as close to flat as you can. They are easy to make with a band saw or a template and a router.... usefull as all get out (unlike the one time use jigs;)).
I'd still take my time letting the top acclimate to the shop environment, removing the existing finish will help with this. I think you posted pics of a cabinet base you were planning on using for the bench base. How do you plan on attaching the top to said base?
Jarome,
I've read lots of posts about people doing what you're referring to in laminating 2 strip style slabs with no issues of delaminating. Epoxy would be my choice for the lamination over yellow glue though.

Cheers.
Greg

[Jerome Hanby]

Thanks Rob and Greg

I went by and looked at a Beech counter top at IKEA and was back to considering one of those over laminating one out of hard maple the hard way...

[Charlie Plesums]

This is sort of on topic. How good (or bad) an idea is it to slice a 73" x 39" x1.5" counter top similar to the one mentioned here lengthwise, glue and stack it to make a slab almost 20" wide and 3" thick? After adding the banding and a tool tray that would work out to the dimensions i had in mind for a workbench.

Since everything is aligned the same direction, would that stacked joint have problems because of wood movement?

I can't imagine anything that would flex a 1.5 inch hardwood countertop (unless you routinely place an aircraft carrier on you workbench :rolleyes: ). If you are looking for mass, the two layers giving 3 inches will have twice the strength of one layer, even if they are just laid together without glue. But if you glue them so that they are attached over the whole surface (become one piece 3 inches thick rather than two 1 1/2 inch pieces) it will be 8 times as stiff. The gluing and clamping challenge to make them a single piece may not be necessary (but if I did it, I would use yellow glue and a vacuum bag).

[Charlie Plesums]

Thanks Rob and Greg

I went by and looked at a Beech counter top at IKEA and was back to considering one of those over laminating one out of hard maple the hard way...


Read the fine print on the IKEA countertops... I wanted to cut one to a custom size, and the ones I looked at a while back were not solid wood ... either hollow or particleboard with veneer.

[Rick Levine]

Brett,

If you do decide to flatten the top you might want to remove that dowel by drilling it out if it is glued, and replacing it with a similar wood that it is inserted in just in case you come close to it during flattening.

[Jerome Hanby]

These were laminated from solid pieces of oak, birch or beech. Says they can be cut to suit your application. The item description says it's a solid wood product and the piece I handled seemed to be laminated out of solid pieces. But you are absolutely right, they do have other product lines (with equally funny names) that are veneers over lesser material.


Read the fine print on the IKEA countertops... I wanted to cut one to a custom size, and the ones I looked at a while back were not solid wood ... either hollow or particleboard with veneer.

[Jerome Hanby]

Wooo, an excuse to buy a vacuum pump and some big bags (or bag making material). I'm starting to like this plan :D

I can't imagine anything that would flex a 1.5 inch hardwood countertop (unless you routinely place an aircraft carrier on you workbench :rolleyes: ). If you are looking for mass, the two layers giving 3 inches will have twice the strength of one layer, even if they are just laid together without glue. But if you glue them so that they are attached over the whole surface (become one piece 3 inches thick rather than two 1 1/2 inch pieces) it will be 8 times as stiff. The gluing and clamping challenge to make them a single piece may not be necessary (but if I did it, I would use yellow glue and a vacuum bag).

[Greg Cole]

I've read some good and bad things about the premade tops. Some have reports of drastic delamination, others not. I'd rather not test MY fate, as I know which direction I am fortuitous with Lady Luck. She seems to have my number, per say (albeit consistent at least :o).
There are premade slabs from places like McMaster Carr that are 2 1/4" thick and they have lots of sizes to choose from (72 X 30 X 21/4" is just over $300 + delivery.. I was seriously considering going this route for a quick n dirty traditional bench (current is a behemoth 8'x4' plywood topped POS) on which to work until I build a lifer... then I found some 12/4 white oak slabs 10" wide and 10 feet long. So I'll skip the temporary traditional bench and proceed with making a lifer..... once the 12/4 slabs reach a decent mosture content that is.

Greg

[Rob Luter]

Brett -

Rick's comment regarding the dowel reminded me of two important things.

1) Manufacturers of butcher block benchtops often run threaded rod across the width through drilled holes, then use a nut and washer on each end. When tightened down, these will keep the top intact if it gets wet and the glue lets go. The holes in the sides are usually plugged with dowel made from the same material as the benchtop. A little age and grime makes these all but invisible.

2) To my surprise, the stock blade on a Ridgid TS3650 will cut through a 3/8 steel rod quite easily :eek:, lets say if you rip the top at the glue joints to work on eliminating cup.

I'd recommend you just take my word on #2 :o. No need to try it for yourself. If you do rip the top make sure you check it with a metal detector or other reliable means.

- Rob

[Jerry Olexa]

WOW you did well. Excellent deal but take your time on the flattening. It'll be well worth it later...

[Jack Porter]

Nice work Brett, looks like a good deal. More importantly, congratualtions on an inadvertent gloat.:)