How to label stock?

[Tom Marchner]

I always find myself trying to label pieces of stock as I proceed with a project. For example when I've decided that a piece will be the left front stile and select which side of the piece will be in the front I want to label it "left front stile, front" or something like that. But each method of labeling has it's disadvantages. Writing on masking tape leaves a film when the tape is removed, ink on the end of the piece is hard to read, writing in pencil or chalk has to be removed.

Does anyone have a good method of labeling stock during a project so that it does not affect the finish when completed?

[Don Abele]

Tom, I use chalk (ala David Marks) and find it easier and more reliable than any other method. Prior to finishing I tend to sand then wipe down my projects, so the chalk is easily removed.

Be well,

Doc

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Chalk works well for me. Just do as Don does and wipe it off.

[John Gregory]

Chalk here too, works the best for me.

[Greg Cole]

Chalk if my 6 year old "helper" hasn't made it disappear.... or decorated my shop floor recently. If he's had at the chalk I revert to painters tape and a sharpie....

Greg

[NICK BARBOZA]

i use chalk which will either get scraped away while cleaning up the boards or wiped away. also have used blue tape with no residue issues.

Cheers,
Nick

[Rod Sheridan]

I normally write a number on the tenons, then put the matching number of awl marks beside the mortise where it will be covered by the tenon shoulder.

I never thought of chalk, that's a good suggestion........Rod.

[Ed Sallee]

I got a bunch of letters, the kind you use for your mailbox or something... but I don't peel off the backing. You can buy a pack with several of each. Then I just set them on top of the "stack"...corresponding to the bill of materials.

[glenn bradley]

I use chalk. If you can find the soft, non-low-dust kind it writes easier.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

When we mill boards they get labeled with a lumber crayon, but my guess is that could create cleanup problems. We sometimes use chalk (children's 'sidewalk' chalk) which should work pretty well. I will sometimes use masking tape because the piece of tape is easy to see to check the label but only if it is in a place that I know will get well planed or sanded and I make sure it is removed as soon as possible.

[mike holden]

I use lumber crayon which comes off easily with mineral spirits.
Mike

[john bateman]

Avery makes a variety of removable white labels which you can get at office supply stores. The adhesive on them is more than a post-it note, but less than masking tape. They're easy to write on with a pencil. I use the 3/4" dots, but they have many others to choose from.
http://cdn.www.officedepot.com/pictures/SK/LG/112433_sk_lg.jpg

[Per Swenson]

Crayola dustless

about 60 cents a box.

get ten boxs.

This stuff is indispensable.

Comes in handy for board flattening with winding sticks.

Heck in a shop, you should have loads of this,

You know, like pencils.

Per

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use masking tape, pencil, or use metal letter stamps in a hidden place.

[Jim Becker]

Chalk for me most of the time, but occasionally blue painter's tape when I need to insure that a mark doesn't accidentally disappear through wear. I'll also mark with a pencil on the end of a component when that feels right.

[Barry Vabeach]

I often write the info on the end ( Lft Front Stile ) and then an arrow showing up ( or the face as the case may be) on the end. If you do this after you trim one end square, you should not lose the mark in later machining and it is not in the way of finishing. I used to mark on the face, but then ended up planing or sanding off the mark whil preparing the piece to its finished dimension, and then remarking, that I don't use that method much. If you have already squared the end, it is very rare that you will mess with the mark, though you may cut into it in part when making tenons, then I just mark it on the face of the tenon. Barry

[Lee Koepke]

I label the pieces with numbers and/or letters with a corresponding mark on my drawings.

I have also begun to use arrows for grain direction.

I marked the legs for my 'first' project on the bottom, cut all my mortice/tenons ... dry fit, etc, then cut the bottoms off to length. thus lost my markings ... :(

chalk is my choice for these markings as well.

[Wayne Cannon]

I want to emphasize the "Removable" labels John mentions. These are especially convenient for programs, like CutList, that will print labels.

Regular (mailing label type) Avery labels work fine for very short duration marking; but, many won't come off cleanly after a day or two.

I generally use chalk on the face. When I have a lot of pieces that undergo a lot of handling/operations, I use metal stamps on the end or some other place that won't be modified.