Unisaw Arbor

[Matt Hutchinson]

I recently purchased a Unisaw from a local school, and going in I knew it needed a new arbor. I have yet to purchase the part, but I was hoping to get some preliminary information on the bearing and arbor. By this I mean, is there anything I should know, and are there any tricks/tips that should be used in the removal and installation of the new arbor? Thanks.

Hutch

P.S. I have read an article linked from OWWM about fitting a new arbor, but I wanted even more first hand knowledge.

[Bob Vallaster]

Matt,
Go to the Saw Center (http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm) and look at his prices for parts. Also click on 'Unisaw Rebuilding' for an illustrated work sequence, including arbor removal.

BobV

[Ron Williams]

While your at it replace the pulleys

[Matt Hutchinson]

Why replace the pulleys? They seem to be in great shape.

Hutch

[Sean Kinn]

Yeah, unless the pulleys are worn to razor sharp edges they are fine. I got lucky when I did my arbor bearings...they came out with very little effort, and the new ones slipped right on (after arbor was in freezer overnight, and bearings were on a lightbulb for a minute or so). I didn't even need an arbor press. However, note that there are some horror stories of stuck arbors floating around out there. A few folks even cracked the castings trying to remove the old ones.

There really wasn't much to it that wasn't already addressed in the excellent articles over at OWWM. Just be sure to get the right bearings. Just give it a shot....if you encounter a severely frozen arbor, or other issue you can use one of the spendy services/vendors out there to perform the work for you.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, I got the arbor out, and there were no spurprises. Although, I accidentally dinged up one of the bearing housings. But I got it smoothed out, very carfully so as not to create problematic damage, and it won't effect the fitting of the new bearings. Note: the old bearings were EXTREMELY snug, seemed a little too tight. I think it will be quite a challenge to get the new ones in without damaging them. I don't have an arbor press, and I am thinking of using the tailstock of my lathe to push it into place. The freezer/lightbulb idea sound interesting. Thanks.

Hutch

[Josiah Bartlett]

You can rent or borrow a ball joint installation tool from an auto parts store to press those new bearings in. It looks like a mega-strong C-clamp and has some accessories to make sure you can press the bearing in.

The freeze/heat method really works well. I use that method a lot for automotive bearing installation.

I've had to go so far as to weld a bead around the outer race of a bearing to remove it. The weld shrinks as it is cooled, pulling the bearing with it. Of course, it ruins the bearing and you have to clean up any spatter, but sometimes its the only way to remove the truly stuck.

Fortunately table saws aren't usually nearly as rusty as old cars.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have been pricing the arbor and bearings at The Saw Center. Does anyone know of a better price, especially on the bearings? Thanks

Hutch

[Sean Kinn]

Get the bearings from Lynn at Accurate Bearing. That's where I got mine, and where all the OWWM'ers go. She handles all of "those woodworking guys." Their website is pretty basic, so you'll have to call and ask for her. Just figure out the bearing model number you need prior to calling (see OWWM site for info if you haven't already figured this out), they are happy to sell the bearings you need, but I don't think they maintain any sort of woodworking equipment cross-reference sheet since it isn't their specialty. I don't have any paperwork here, but it seems like they wer eabout $7ea.

Is your arbor damaged? No real need to replace unless it is. I re-used mine and it only had a very very tiny bit of runout (well within woodworking tolerances).

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks Sean! I will check Accurate out!

As far as the arbor goes, I purchased this Unisaw a week ago. The school's shop teacher knew it had an arbor problem and made this clear during the sale. After examination it was obvious he was right. It had been run for long periods of time without the blade being properly tightened. As a result, there was a nice groove worn in the arbor, which makes the blade not only rotate eccentrically, but wobble as well. I saw it run with a blade attached.....yikes! I figured this expense into my offer, and I explained the costs involvedto the seller. He understood and sold it for what I offered.

So, to make a short answer long.....it definitely needs to be replaced! :D

Hutch

[Ron Williams]

Why replace the pulleys? They seem to be in great shape.

Hutch

I thought the same thing when I replaced the arbor on my Uni. with the new arbor and bearings I had a very small vibration. I replaced the pulleys and no more vibs. (The Saw Center recommends replacing the pulleys)

[Bruce Wrenn]

The bearings are 6203-2RS. Reid Supply (www.reidsupply.com) has them on sale through 7- 31 for $1.94 each. Stock number is AKQPBR-259. These are made in China, same as the ones you will get from Delta, only a heck of a lot cheaper. Because this is such a common bearing, I order them in lots of 10.