Help with my deck please

[Lincoln Myers]

Due to some unforseen problems/mistakes/poor decisions I need some suggestions on how to put on my last couple boards.

As you can see in the pictures, I ended up using joist hangers on both ends of my joists, instead of setting them on top of my beam. This leaves me with my posts and beams as shown.

I was thinking about putting another 2x8 on the front of the posts, notching out around the bolt heads where needed, placing blocking between beam and 'fascia 2x8' to make it rigid enough to attach the railing posts.

What is your opinion of this, or please suggest another solution.

Thanks a lot for any thoughts/comments.

-Linc

[Don Abele]

Linc, are you going to put lattice on to stop buckets and toys (and the kids) from winding up under there? If so, run the lattice all the way to the top. It'll hide the bolts and dress up the joist. As for the beams, I'd leave them the way they are. I don't see anything wrong with leaving the bolts exposed. On my deck, the bolts are recessed, but still visible and I used lattice as I described (and for the same reason).

Be well,

Doc

[Dave Falkenstein]

You will have a stronger railing if you bolt the posts to the inside of the beam and also to the joists. Position all or most of your posts at the intersection of the joist and beam, and bolt in both directions all of the way through the post and joist/beam.

[Lincoln Myers]

Don, Dave - Thanks.

I will be using lattice to stop kids and toys collecting underneath, good idea on taking it up to cover the bolts.

Any other suggestions on how to deal with this? I will need to put another deck board on top of the long section in the first picture and I'll need some more meat to attach it to underneath.

-Linc

[Lee Schierer]

Why not add filler sections of board to match the beam in between the posts. This can be done either as full sized boards or something like a 2 x 4 ripped lengthwise down the center on a 45 degree angle. These filler pieces can be nailed into the front of the beam and the decking can be attached to them as well.

[Greg Cole]

Might not help now, but here's "my way" of framing in the outside of decks...
I basically sandwich posts in between the outside joists. Ya use some extra lumber this way but the posts for railings are strong as all heck. 2 carriage bolts ber 4 by rail post and on to the next. Also gives the option to hide the end grain of the decking with an "edge band" style deck board instead of having end grain showing on 2 sides.
I put up the railing posts before skinning the deck and I just notch the decking around the posts with a jig saw. That said you need to remember to cut deck boards around the posts to length before attaching them.. or you unattach them to cut them and then reattach.
Bolt heads exposed is fine here, you can see the heads on all the carriage bolts I use & if I use a hex head like a lag screw I usually counter sink the head with a forschner bit to keep the head flush with the stock. When you stain the deck they become a bit less visible as well.
I used all torx head "deck mate" screws for my decking and those are the shiznit.

Cheers.
Greg

[William OConnell]

I just recently finished a deck. There's some pictures here of the progression. In particular there is some stringer construction that might hhelp you over your next hurdle which will be the steps and the way they tie in with the railings and posts. I find it best to start with the decking from the outside in by the way and actually install the railing system posts before the decking goes down. Equal spacing and symetry(sp) are important when laying out railings. Also you might want to think of raised planters instead of lattice around the perimeter. It gives it more of a built in feel for lack of a better description.

Please download your pictures here.

[Don Abele]

...I will need to put another deck board on top of the long section in the first picture and I'll need some more meat to attach it to underneath...

Linc, I assumed that you will not be putting a railing up.

If that's the case, I would go with a 2x4 from post to post. Between that 2x4, the end joist, and the posts, that's a lot of support for that final board. It'll only be hanging over by a couple of inches at most, similar to a step. That will also cover up the top edge of the lattice.

Be well,

Doc

[Jim Becker]

Put a "finish" board around the rim of the deck that is blocked out flush with the outside of the posts, if necessary. You only want/need "solid" blocking in an area that will actually get traffic, such as at a stairway. Your deck boards can then go to the edge and overhang slightly if you prefer, for a clean look. In fact, the overhang is good to have...just be sure to put a drip groove under the edge.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Put a "finish" board around the rim of the deck that is blocked out flush with the outside of the posts, if necessary. You only want/need "solid" blocking in an area that will actually get traffic, such as at a stairway. Your deck boards can then go to the edge and overhang slightly if you prefer, for a clean look. In fact, the overhang is good to have...just be sure to put a drip groove under the edge.

I'd like to add to what Jim said, and hopefully describe a decent solution to the railing post question as well.

It looks to me like your decking that is shown in the first photo comes to about the center of the double 2X beam. I would mount the railing posts on the side of the deck support piers and the face of the 2X beam, bolting the posts through the double 2X beam and toe-screwing the posts into the piers. I would add blocking on the face of the beam to create a surface flush with the outside face of the railing posts. Then add a 2X rough sawn fascia around the entire deck on the outside of the railing posts and blocking.

If this arrangement allows you to place the last piece of decking on top of beam, blocking and fascia, great. If not, then rip two pieces of decking so that the decking fits. OR use one size larger 2X fascia, and mount your last piece of decking inside the fascia.

Hopefully this solution allows you to use everything you have already done without redoing, and gives your railing posts plenty of rigidity. The 2X fascia will add a finished look to the face of the beam area.

[Lincoln Myers]

Thanks A LOT for all the suggestions and solutions. I will be reviewing what I have and doing some work tonight.

I love this place!

-Linc

[Thomas Marr]

Lincoln,

I assume the problem here is that you used a load bearing rim joist and you can't attach the last board(s) from underneath. I did the same thing with my deck. I ended up screwing the last board from the top. In one other case, I glued the last board (as an experiment mostly). Both solutions worked ok because I have a railing and you can’t really notice the screw holes and the glued board doesn’t take a lot of pressure as a step. If you don’t like to see the screw holes, you could also plug the holes. Since its only one or two boards, that would probably work.

[Lincoln Myers]

Here is how I finished off the deck. See pictures below, I did just face screw these in from the top. We also decided, since the deck is so low ~18-22" off ground, to skip the railings, this will keep a nice clear view to the yard. We're going to put some planters and benches in along some edges and corners. We're also going to go with really wide (8 feet), deck-like stairs 2 or 3, leading down into the yard. Stairs will be about 15-17" deep.

[William OConnell]

Here is how I finished off the deck. See pictures below, I did just face screw these in from the top. We also decided, since the deck is so low ~18-22" off ground, to skip the railings, this will keep a nice clear view to the yard. We're going to put some planters and benches in along some edges and corners. We're also going to go with really wide (8 feet), deck-like stairs 2 or 3, leading down into the yard. Stairs will be about 15-17" deep.
Just try and forecast how your steps will lay out. A 3/4" bullnose is nice. Also I do blind returns with the decking wich makes for a more finished looking tread heres the framing detail. Also all rises should be the same
http://www.indianisland.us/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=123&g2_serialNumber=2
Heres with the returns cut
http://www.indianisland.us/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=149&g2_serialNumber=2

[Lincoln Myers]

I really like the way those stairs look w/ the returns. Do you put risers on to enclose the steps? I'm thinking about doing that. Also, do you do any kind of foundation work for the stair stringer landing? I've read to dig down to stable soil and then put 3-5" of gravel for drainage.

Any more pics would be a great help. Thanks.

-Linc

[William OConnell]

I really like the way those stairs look w/ the returns. Do you put risers on to enclose the steps? I'm thinking about doing that. Also, do you do any kind of foundation work for the stair stringer landing? I've read to dig down to stable soil and then put 3-5" of gravel for drainage.

Any more pics would be a great help. Thanks.

-Linc
I almost always face the rises because, again it gives a more finished look. I don't usually get to carried away with stair footings and here I actually used nothing but a pieces of the evergrain to shim the stringers in spots. Once you disturb soil it is no longer virgin soil and prone to movement and settling. These stairs are 8' like you mentioned you were thinking of doing and have enclosed rises and also the 2 by 12 stringers were capped on the ends with evergrain material so all you see is the evergrain. The pictures not the best.
http://www.indianisland.us/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=77&g2_serialNumber=2
I'll stone the front of the block and cap it to match the raised beds around the shop later. I like not looking under a deck and raised beds marry it to the landscape better
http://www.indianisland.us/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=85&g2_serialNumber=2