2 Quick Questions for the Well Experienced...

[BILL DONAHUE]

Just took two rough turned hollow forms out of the paper bags after 2 1/2 months of slow drying. Two questions:

-one is black tupelo and has been turned and sanded. It has a very good marble look, with white and yellowish tones to it and I'm wondering - should I use Danish oil on it or leave it more natural and just poly it?

-the 2nd is white oak and has a few cracks in it. Should I toss it or can it be rescued? Thanks.

[David Walser]

Bill,

Despite your detailed descriptions, it might be easier for us to advise you if you posted a couple of pictures. With that huge caveat, here are my gueses:


I love oil finishes, but they tend to yellow lighter colored woods. If you still have a scrap of the wood left, test the oil on it to see if you like the result. If not, a clear lacquer (or wipe on poly) wouldn't be a bad way to go.
I think you can save the oak piece. If the cracks are not too large, try filling them with brass filings (which you can get from the key cutting machine at your local hardware store -- just be sure to use a magnet to remove any steel filings from the brass). Use CA glue or 5 minute epoxy to set the filings into the wood. I think oak and brass go well together. YMMV.

[robert hainstock]

Any more U use wipe on Poly for most everything. As for the cracks, I use either CA or epoxy. For a filler, I use sanding dust, or coffee grounds, or nothing at all. I hate to throw anything out, so tend to keep far to many less than perfect turnings. Oh well, my kids can throw them out.:eek::):)
Bob

[Paul Engle]

I agree with the others, consider using lacquer on one of 'em so you can see the difference oil/urethane makes as these yellow pretty good and patina even more over time , I did a basket weave OT box of walnut in lacquer and was very pleased with it not coloring the piece too much on the first coat , when it dries this week I will get a pic posted after the 2nd coat goes on.
As far as the oak with cracks .... fill em with epoxy / coffee grounds or epoxy / fine sanding dust. or CA glue / cg . etc. I have never tossed a piece due to cracking .... blowing up ... yep , some of my customers like the cracked look as long as it does not compromise the strength of the piece, go for it Bill.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bill - about the only thing I can add for you to consider is using a water based poly. It doesn't yellow when compared to the oil based poly - but it will raise the grain a little the first couple of coats.

[Dan Oliphant]

Bill, I'm going to go against the grain here. First on finish, if the topelo is open pore, use a lacquer sanding sealier (as many coats as needed to level) then spray coat with a water clear lacquer. The white oak will need to have the pores filled no matter what finish coat you select, My choise is again lacquer, water clear.
The white oak needs a contrasting color for filling any cracks, use a crushed stone of your liking. Clean the cracks out, pack with stone, then use a thin CA. If the cracks are quite deep, do a partial fill with stone and glue with thin CA, onch dry, finish the fill with stone, pack well then CA again. The stone filler should be proud of the surface slightly. Finish turn as you normally would.
If the crack is large and goes all the way through into the ID, the same process can be used, just place painters tape on the ID over the crack prior to the packing process. Once the CA has cured, remove as much of the tape as possible, fill any remaining gaps/voids from the inside of the piece.
If done well, the stone will inhance the overall look of the piece when completed.

[Bill Wyko]

I'm still a rookie around here but I prefer Tung Oil. The down side is to do it right it takes about 4 or 5 coats 24 hours apart with a steel wooling in between coats. I think the oil makes figure in the wood pop.

[BILL DONAHUE]

Thanks for the comments. Hoping to finish one of them this week.