Stupid questions about drill presses

[Glenn Howard]

I found what I thought was a great deal on a Rikon 13" floor drill press (model 30-200). It's a brand new "floor display" but appears to have all parts intact and doesn't seem abused at all. It normally retails for around $300 and up and they are asking $175 for this one (considered new with warranty).

My first stupid question :confused::
Is a 13" floor drill press a waste of floor space? Most of the bench mounted drill presses I've seen are 10"-12" and this is the first floor drill press I've seen that is less than 15". Would buying a 13" floor press be a dumb move, wasting precious floor space without it having much in the way of advantage over a more mobile bench drill press? In other words, if I'm going to commit to a floor drill press, should I be looking for a 15"-20" model instead? What would be the advantage of a 13" floor unit over a 12" bench unit?

My second stupid question :confused::
I've never owned a drill press before, and I couldn't find the answer online, so maybe it's not so dumb. Do drill presses use special bits, or can I use the same bits I use in my hand drills?

[Roger Ronas]

I found what I thought was a great deal on a Rikon 13" floor drill press (model 30-200). It's a brand new "floor display" but appears to have all parts intact and doesn't seem abused at all. It normally retails for around $300 and up and they are asking $175 for this one (considered new with warranty).

My first stupid question :confused::
Is a 13" floor drill press a waste of floor space? Most of the bench mounted drill presses I've seen are 10"-12" and this is the first floor drill press I've seen that is less than 15". Would buying a 13" floor press be a dumb move, wasting precious floor space without it having much in the way of advantage over a more mobile bench drill press? In other words, if I'm going to commit to a floor drill press, should I be looking for a 15"-20" model instead? What would be the advantage of a 13" floor unit over a 12" bench unit?

My second stupid question :confused::
I've never owned a drill press before, and I couldn't find the answer online, so maybe it's not so dumb. Do drill presses use special bits, or can I use the same bits I use in my hand drills?



I'll take a stab at this.
First, there is no stupid questions. If you don't know, they only way to find out is to ask, so.

1. The advantage to a floor model is/are: doesn't take up bench space, you can lower the table to get larger objects under the bit to drill holes in, and others can probably come up with other advantages as well as disadvantages too.
2. Yes it uses the same bits as a hand drill motor and infact you can use even more bits, such as larger diameter and even a vise or x-y table to make locating holes more precise.

HTH
Roger

[Peter Quadarella]

1. Honestly, if you can spare the bench space, a bench drill press is fine. In my case bench space is more precious than floor space, so I went with the floor standing. You get the other incidentals that Glenn mentioned along with typically a more powerful motor and longer quill travel. Going for different size drill presses is just a matter of how much you are willing to spend really.

2. You can use the same bits. Sometimes they say to stay away from twist drill bits because of the possibility of it grabbing the piece and pulling it up into the drill, but as long as you secure the piece this is not a big issue. You can use drill bits in a drill press that are difficult to impossible to use by hand, like big forstner bits and such.

[pat warner]

Not to worry about sacrificing floor space. A drill press is an essential tool.
For example, jigs & fixtures, the heart of woodworking, are comprised of some substrate to which various components are fastened. Could be a fence, a carrier, a stop, who knows what? Jigs are rarely joined, they're screwed together. If you can't drill, you can't build a jig and you will be handicapped forevermore without one.

Drilling tools? Many, many different kinds, almost all with cylindric shanks, most can be used in the drill press, some for drill press use only, some for hand drill only, most for either tool. Lots of websites about this.

My concern: A 300$ press will be an adversity, 150$ press will build character.

Drills & Routs. (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Glenn Howard]

Thanks for the feedback.

What I'm wondering about specifically, would the 13" drill press I'm looking at be adequate? From what I understand, the size designation of the drill press refers to the distance from the chuck to the column. So in other words, a 13" drill press would be able to drill a maximum of 6 1/2 inches from the edge of the work piece. A 20" drill press in comparison would be able to drill a maximum of 10" from the edge of the work piece.

So if I had a 14" by 14" square piece of wood, the 13" press would not be able to drill a hole dead center of the piece. But a 15" press (maximum 7 1/2") or a 20" press would be able to do so.

I'm afraid that the 13" Rikon I'm looking at may not be the best choice. Should I be looking at a 15" or 20" press instead? Of all of the floor presses I've seen, I've never seen one less than 15". While the Rikon I found is a bargain at $175, would I at some point be sorry that I didn't spend more and get at least a 15" press?

[mreza Salav]

I used to have a bench top DP and upgraded recently to a floor standing one. One feature that is often not given enough attention is the amount of spindle travel. IMO more often this feature is more important that the distance from the bit to the column.
For those occasions you are referring (to drill a hole in the middle of a 14"x14" piece) a simple jig and a router can do the job, but if you are trying to bore a hole, say 4" deep, then it is nice to be able to do it without stopping halfway through and adjusting the table height, etc etc.

Just a thought to consider.

[Glenn Howard]

The spindle travel on the Rikon is 3 1/8"...I'm thinking that's not so great, is it?

Here is a link to the Rikon press I'm looking at, with all the spex.

http://www.hechinger.com/hardware/tools/22457-rikon-30-200-13-floor-drill-press.html

I had been looking at picking up the Rigid floor drill press prior to finding this deal. The Rigid clearly has better specs, but with the Rigid coming in at $300 and the Rikon marked down to $175, which way should I go?

[Don Bullock]

Glenn, I've found some great deals in tools and some that were not so great. You're doing the right thing by asking questions here. First you need to determine if the Ricon 13' is the drill press that will meet your present and future needs. Distance from column to chuck and quill travel (the vertical distance that the chuck travels) are major determiners in selecting a drill press. Quality and cost are also important. The mistake that I have made on some tools, especially my bench top drill press, was shopping mostly based on cost and not looking carefully at what I could do with the machine. I think that you have answered your own question. If you see a need for more space between the chuck and the column the Ricon isn't a good deal no matter how "cheap" it may be.

[Tom Veatch]

...
Is a 13" floor drill press a waste of floor space?

Only you can say, based on your applications of the tool, whether or not you'll have frequent need to drill more than about 6" from the edge of a part. If it's often, my guess it that you will become dissatisfied with a 13" DP and the price difference will become less important in your mind. If it's seldom, other's have offered alternatives that could be used for those infrequent requirements. My Jet JDP-17MF has a 16 1/2" swing and I rarely need more than that.

... Do drill presses use special bits, or can I use the same bits I use in my hand drills?
As several others have pointed out, any drill bit that can be used in a hand held drill motor can also be used in a DP. Plus there are many accessories that can be used in a DP that would be difficult, impossible, or dangerous to use in a hand held drill - fly cutters, plug cutters, larger hole saws, forstner bits, etc. come to mind).

You didn't mention spindle travel (maximum vertical travel of the chuck/bit), but as at least one response did. IMO, the spindle travel is as important a specification as the swing. My DP has a spindle travel of 4 3/8" and I frequently wish for more. If I ever replace this DP or add a second one, it will be one of the current or newer models that offer 6" of spindle travel.

[Bruce Glazier]

I'm going in the opposite direction. I have a floor drill press. I'm selling it and buying a bench model. I'm mounting it on a rolling cabinet. I'm gaining mobility and storage. I've never had the need for more spindle travel.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks for the feedback.

What I'm wondering about specifically, would the 13" drill press I'm looking at be adequate? From what I understand, the size designation of the drill press refers to the distance from the chuck to the column. So in other words, a 13" drill press would be able to drill a maximum of 6 1/2 inches from the edge of the work piece. A 20" drill press in comparison would be able to drill a maximum of 10" from the edge of the work piece.

So if I had a 14" by 14" square piece of wood, the 13" press would not be able to drill a hole dead center of the piece. But a 15" press (maximum 7 1/2") or a 20" press would be able to do so.

I'm afraid that the 13" Rikon I'm looking at may not be the best choice. Should I be looking at a 15" or 20" press instead? Of all of the floor presses I've seen, I've never seen one less than 15". While the Rikon I found is a bargain at $175, would I at some point be sorry that I didn't spend more and get at least a 15" press?

That is a small floor model but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. If you're a pen turner, it's huge, if you do a lot of furniture, its a bit small. 6-1/2" from bit to column is in the realm of bench tops. You say you haven't had a DP before; have you needed one? When you did, did you need a larger one than the Rikon you're looking at? Would you like a table that tilts easily? A motor with enough power for larger bits?

I know these are a lot of "I dunno" questions when you haven't had a DP to build an opinion on. Just consider the work that you do and what size of DP would work for you. Now matter how good the deal, if the tools won't help me, its not a deal. If this DP will meet your needs, its sounds like a good deal.

[Shawn Christ]

I'm going in the opposite direction. I have a floor drill press. I'm selling it and buying a bench model. I'm mounting it on a rolling cabinet. I'm gaining mobility and storage. I've never had the need for more spindle travel.

Bruce, if you otherwise like your DP, why not just buy a mobile base for your floor model and build a removable cabinet that sits on the base? You'd keep the extra capacity and power, and save the time and effort to sell and buy another DP.

I just recently purchased a 17" floor model and believe I made the right decision. It seemed like a monster during assembly, and it still looks huge sitting in my shop. But for my very first project I was happy to have the spindle travel that came with it.

I tend to build furniture and larger work pieces, so I opted for the larger machine.

[mreza Salav]

Glenn,
That looks to be a minimal floor standing drill press, IMO, both the spindle travel and the swing. You may get by with this or you may find its limitations and wish for a better one. I bought a used 16" one with 4+7/8" travel for under $200. So if you look into used market you can find great deals.
Just some thoughts.

[Don Eddard]

I would also suggest the used route. That way you get the bigger capacity and the lower cost, and quite possibly better quality, all wrapped up into one. And chances are, if you decide you don't like your used drill press, you can sell it for little to no financial loss and try another one.

[Max Acbuilder]

Whatever you buy make sure you see it running and check the run out. I have an expensive PM2800 and it is unusable because of huge run out. Now I have to take it in to have warranty work done. If I did it again I would look for a high end bench top.

[Joe Scharle]

I have 2. One is a radial. You might want to look those over as well.
Joe

[pat warner]

"I'm afraid that the 13" Rikon I'm looking at may not be the best choice. Should I be looking at a 15" or 20" press instead? Of all of the floor presses I've seen, I've never seen one less than 15". While the Rikon I found is a bargain at $175, would I at some point be sorry that I didn't spend more and get at least a 15" press?"
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You're close to having a paralytic reaction to too much analytic compaction.
Not common to drill 6" inside, tho desireable at times. Of far more concern is machine quality. You won't get much for $300. Notwithstanding, in your case, I would get a cheap as-practical drill press, use it, find out what is good/bad about it, then sell it and consider/replacement with a light industrial grade press.
Drilling is a big deal, poorly taught, and the texts aren't great either. It takes some time to ace out this tool and learn its setups and adjustments. Might as well start with a "starter" press.

[glenn bradley]

I'm going in the opposite direction. I have a floor drill press. I'm selling it and buying a bench model. I'm mounting it on a rolling cabinet. I'm gaining mobility and storage. I've never had the need for more spindle travel.

Good info here from Bruce. For his needs a benchtop makes better sense; mobility and storage, two great things in a shop.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
As the owner of a 12" GMC bench top model, I've found that table height & quill travel have been more limiting than the ability to drill in the center of wider stock.
Matter of fact, I haven't yet run up against a width limitation at all.

Boring 3/4" holes in a 4X4?
Yep - hit that wall early on & a couple of times since.

I'd also like to make a table & fence w/some T-track and dust control, bit again, the height limitation stymies that.

Re: Portable - my cast iron GMC weighs in at around 70#. Portable it ain't.

Not that I regret buying the bench top - even a low end DP is worlds more accurate the trying to drill a hole by hand with an electric drill - if I had it to do all over, I'd have sprung for a larger floor model.

[Brian Kent]

…in your case, I would get a cheap as-practical drill press, use it, find out what is good/bad about it, then sell it and consider/replacement with a light industrial grade press.


Pat can you give an example of what is considered a light industrial grade press? Thanks

[Gene O. Carpenter]

I have an old Walker T bench type DP that has served me well for 48 years or there abouts.. It's mounted on a well built roll about stand with a drawer and a full sized shelf or bottom..I've been able to move it to what ever area of the shop that I happened to be working in at that time..
This saved a lot of walking back and forth from the work area to the DP and then back.. I often thought about replacing Ol Walker with a floor model but I didn't and I'm glad to still have reliable Ol Walker!

But if you have a floor model and pine for a bench mount consider this : measure from floor to ceiling, measure height of your DP to top of support column..
If it will fit on your bench, simply lower the "stop collar" if it has one, to the height you want, then lower the head down to the collar..
Call on one of your stronger friends to help you lift it up..You'll soon get used to that protrusion on top..You'll always be able to convert back to a floor type if the need ever arises..

The only thing you have to watch is if it's on a mobile bench watch out that you don't run into a water line or overhead light fixture.
You could of course cut the column off above the head!
Also keep in mind that a bench mounts Base is smaller than a floor model so it's foot print on the bench will be
larger too..

And a tip, FWIW, if you ever have to drill holes in any type of brass, copper or bronze: using an old dull bit relieve the sharp chisel edges on the bit by lightly touching each cutting edge to a grinding wheel so a very shallow 90* edge is formed to scrape the material rather than shave it.. This will eliminate and "grabbing" which can break a bit or a bone if you don't have the item being worked on clamped to the DP table. I learned this while boring out small brass cannon barrels..
Gene

[Jesse Cloud]

OK, here's my two cents worth...

If you have the floor space, get a floor model. Someday your gonna want to drill something tall or long.

Other important things:

- number and range of speeds, especially if you will use large bits or circle cutters (e.g. 250 rpm)

- quill travel

- run out (wobble) - too much makes the DP worse than useless

- maybe, ease of changing speeds. most use a three pulley/two belt configuration where you have to move the belts around to change speeds. Its awkward and messy and if you are lazy like me, it may tempt you to skip adjusting the speed. There are variable speed models that require no belt changes.

- ability to lock the quill, so you can bring the bit down to the workpiece and adjust the fence with the bit in position.

Not important:
- storage - you can build a cabinet around the post if you need storage
- table size - your first jig will probably be a big removeable plywood table
- lasers - see above

Having said all that, I have a Delta 16 inch floor model that does everything I need it to do.

Used is good, but check it out first. Look for bit slippage, runout, worn chuck tighteners, slippage in vertical table adjustment. Try craigslist dot org.

[Jesse Cloud]

Oh, sorry, one thing I forgot. I would never use a "self-feeding" bit, like an auger bit on a drill press.

[pat warner]

"Pat can you give an example of what is considered a light industrial grade press? Thanks"
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I like General, Jet, Powermatic and old Rockwells, all ~ 15".