How did I do???

[Kevin Pelletier]

Hi everyone fisrt and most important as this is my first post I would like to introduce myself, name is Kevin I am from central CT Ive beeb bulding houses for 12 years but I destroyed my knee so that ended I have built a few shelf clocks and enjoyed ti so decided that this would be a fun hobby. so onto the reason for my post I stopped at a couple of flea markets to day and bought a bunch of hand planes and would like some input on how i did.

pics 1 and 2 are of no.5 planes a few of them all the parts are there some stanley 1 I know is a bailey
pic 3 is of no. 4 planes and again 3 of them are complete not sure of all the makes on these or the no5
pic 4 is 3 wood planes 2 are stanley and 1 is a bailey
pics 1-4 I paid 35 bucks
pic 5 is a union mo6 i paid 5 bucks for

now I know i dont need all of these so Im going to clean them all up keep one of each size for my self and sell the rest. I think......lol

[Kevin Pelletier]

I also picked up this one for 5 bucks I have no idea the make. I need some help with this one it has some pretty heavy gouges on the bottom can i do anythign about it ??? I read on here somewhere that you shouldnt sand the bottom , not sure why (remember i built houses so this close tolerance stuff is still real new to me so pleae bare withme) but Iam sure there is a good reason. also while at the same flea market another gentlmen had a box of chippers and irons all in decent shape also was some handles some covers that go over the iron and chipper but they said sargent on them will anyof this fit on these other planes. none of the wood planes are going to be sold I want ot keep those but the extra ones after i clean them up will more then likely be sold so if you do want one let me know

[Johnny Kleso]

Not bad at all but as you get more experienced you'll find you may want to focous on planes in better condition :)

I think every one goes threw this buy them cheap and buy a lot syndrom hehehe God knows I did..

I have a website on how to refinish hand planes you can access by clicking on my name...

I found its far better to find a plane in really good condition than a bunch in fair for the same price IMHO

But you should have a great start and you should have no want to 1-3 users and all the spare parts you could need..

Welcome and I hope you enjoy your stay, thanks for sharing the pics...

[steve swantee]

Welcome to the forum Kevin, looks like you've got some work ahead of you, but it's a great opportunity to learn how to properly tune a hand plane. And check out Johnny's site-a lot of great info there. Careful though, handplanes can become quite an obsession-you're standing at the top of a very slippery slope.

Steve

[Jim Koepke]

Kevin,
Welcome aboard and the slope gets real slippery real fast.

Looks like you need to read the threads on rust removal. That is what the search feature is all about.

All in all, it looks like a lot of good iron for low dollars, but a lot of sweat equity.

I would stay away from trying to mix parts from different makers. Some will work, some will cause frustration. Even simple parts like a blade may have problems from one maker to another. The Union blades have a narrower notch than a Stanley. So, the Stanley lateral adjuster will be very tight on a Union blade. A Stanley blade will have a lot of slop or backlash on a Union lateral adjuster.

The threads on rods and other fasteners are different from maker to maker. Same with the wood and other parts.

There is a name for planes made with parts from different makers and even from different time periods. They are called Frankenplanes.

One reason to not sand on wooden planes is based on the same idea of not sanding a surface before planing. There are small amounts of the sanding material left behind to cause problems for blades and other surfaces.

Depending on the sole of the wooden plane, it can be repaired or maybe just a few light passes with an iron hand plane can restore it to user status.

Also, it one is not careful with sanding, the surface will not be flat.

Bob Smalser did an instructional on wooden plane resoling that is also worth searching for.

Have fun rehabbing all those old rustys, it looks like there are at least a few good keepers in there.

jim

[Kevin Pelletier]

thanks everyone for the help so far. I was working on the planes last night and realized that the union no 6 uses a wider blade then the others is this normal,(I hate to ask this and show off my newb status....lol), one side note in all this though is that on the number 4 planes there is 3 of them with pat dates 1 has just one date the others have 3, what all that means i dont know , I'm going through Johhny's site to work on dating them some of them aren't as bad as i thought just some light surface rust. Now I just need to learn how to sharpen......lol .Like Steve said its a good opportunity to learn and thats what I will use it for

[Charles McKinley]

Welcome Kevin,

Looks like you jumped over the slippery slope with both feet. Look up all of Bob Smalser's tutorials they are a wealth of information. There is a lot of great information on the Creek. There is a flow chart around that will help you date your planes.

Yes the no. 6 will have a wider blade.

There is a ton of info on sharpening and you can open a whole can of worms over: water stones vs. sand paper (scary sharp) vs oil stones. I like waterstones myself.

The best thing to do is find someone who can show you how to use your planes or use one of theirs that is SHARP and TUNED up. Starting out on your own can be very frustrating.

Patric's Bloor and Gore page has great information on Stanley planes.

ENJOY!