Bandsaw Dovetails

[Peter Quadarella]

For a number of reasons, I decided I want to learn how to make dovetails on my bandsaw. I haven't done any dovetails before.

So, there was some information about this in a book I read by Mark Duginske, and I remember seeing an episode of Woodworks where David Marks did this. I've been trying to construct my jig(s) and make some progress today, but whether it's the heat messing with my brain or just general confusion, I'm having some difficulty. I figured I'd search the handy internet - surely there was a step by step, or even a video of this somewhere out there.

Well, as far as I can tell, there isn't. A few mentions of doing it here and there, but nothing in the way of real instructions. Unless I am missing some hidden gem somewhere. I figured I'd post this on the off chance someone has seen something and can point me in the right direction.

Anyone? If not, I'll keep banging my head against it, either I'll crack it or my head will ;).

[Paul Downes]

I seem to remember that fine woodworking magazine had an article in a recent issue dealing with bandsaw dovetails.

[Lance Norris]

What are you trying to figure out?

[Peter Quadarella]

Thanks, I'll check FWW.

What I'm having trouble with right now is a good formula for the spacer blocks when making the tails. Like, where do I set the blade, and how big is a good size for the spacer blocks, and do I use just 1 for 2 tails, and 2 for 3 tails, etc? I can get it to work but I don't have it down - I need to codify it, and the heat was messing with me. I will have to go out there again soon.

If you have any information it might save me from reinventing the wheel, so to speak.

[Doug Shepard]

I'm fairly sure Sam Blasco has (or at least had) some pics of a bandsaw DT jig in the photos section of the Yahoo Minimax forum.

[Brian Kent]

I used this at first: http://www.blocklayer.com/woodjoints/dovetaileng.aspx

I have never seen a truly accurate dovetail with bandsaw only. I would still pare off the last few hairs with a sharp bench chisel.

[Peter Quadarella]

I figure I will have to do final fit with a chisel, I don't mind that. I'm just looking for something a little faster than by hand without having to pull machinery (e.g. a dovetail router jig) out each time. It's not that I'm having trouble doing the layout - what I'm having trouble with is setting up to be repeatable and quick.

Thanks for the lead Doug, it looks like you have to become a member to get into that forum though. I'm not sure if I should; maybe I will just to find the pics.

I was able to make a dovetail joint on the bandsaw today, but it looks like the angle on my jig is way off. When I went to do the pins I had to tilt the table to 18 degrees to make them fit (I'm shooting for 10 degrees right now, since that's the max I can left tilt). I will make make another go at it tomorrow.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi peter i do all my dovetails on my bandsaw.I cut the pins first then lay out the tails.I took me couple years to perfect my method.Sometimes its alot of pairing but always faster than hand sawing.And i can join any type of wood i want from maple to ebony.Well worth the time spent learning.Pick a method and stick to it and have fun.

[Peter Quadarella]

Hey Andrew, any details on your method would be appreciated! Why do you do your pins first? I was going to tilt my bandsaw table to the correct angle of my tail jig, after using it to make the tails.

[Walt Caza]

Hi Peter,
Just one quick idea I will toss your way...
I have not yet tried it, but I understand it is possible to build a 'ramp' jig
which can run through the bandsaw both ways. This is a work around to
tilting the table, more repeatable and not limited by your machine.
I know I like to keep my set-ups, such as table tuned dead square to blade, for as long as possible.

I have heard about this more than once, but cannot recall seeing any pics.(?)
I will skim some bandsaw books, when I find time...
if I find anything relevant, I will post it here.
good luck with your dovetails,
Walt
:)

[Peter Quadarella]

Hi Walt. I do have a book that shows the ramp jig. I'm going to try it without first, and if it gets to be too much trouble to tilt the table, I'll build it.

[Frank Drew]

I never used a jig but I cut tons of dovetails freehand on the bandsaw; I agree with Brian that a bit of final paring can make the fit, and unless you tilt your table first one way then the other to cut the pins you'll certainly need to use a chisel on them (but I found that a fast procedure and much simpler than tilting the table).

[Steven Bolton]

Is it harder to cut the pins or the tails?

sb

[Frank Drew]

Steven,

With a bandsaw, I think they're equally easy to cut but maybe I don't fully understand your question.

You have to cut one or the other first, then lay out the other from the ones you cut; some people cut the tails first, then the pins, others prefer to cut the pins first then lay out the tails. If you're going to cut them with a handsaw, there's a slightly stronger argument to cut the pins first; with a bandsaw, six of one half a dozen of the other IMO.

[Steven Bolton]

I ask because I have seen a simple way to cut the pins with a router jig. It is from Glen Huey. You can cut pins that look hand cut. Then if you use the bandsaw for the tails it would be very easy.

sb

[Peter Quadarella]

I'm getting closer. Somehow during my last try, while making the pins I added the spacers in the wrong order or something like that. I also have to take better care with my stop block so as not to go over the scribed line.

One area I am having a little difficulty in is when cutting the tails, the first bit of the cut sometimes curves a little on me, not giving the perfect angle.

[Paul Downes]

I think the fww article used 2 ramped jigs to cut the dovetail at the correct angles. They did clean up the cuts with a chisel.

[Steven Bolton]

Why not use this http://www.woodworkersedge.com/DovetailRouterJig.htm

for the pins and then do the tails on the bandsaw.

sb

[Mark Singer]

I have used the bandsaw for 8/4 dovetails. You can make a guide which is an angle and run it against the fence. A thin blade is important with little set.The .025 Lennox with 10 TPI is good or the Olson MVP. David Charlesworth discuses bandsaw dovetails in his books.

[Peter Quadarella]

That's the basis of my "jig" Mark, a triangle with a 10 degree side. I may switch to a 1/8" blade instead of the 1/4" that I'm using right now.

[Steven Bolton]

Do you have to have an expensive bandsaw?

sb

[Russ Hauser]

Maybe this is the jig.

http://woodworkstuff.net/bsdtj.html

Russ

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi peter,I will post some pics of my method.It will be easy for you to follow.The block with the rule in front and the angle finder is what i start with the angle on that one is 11.5.I set the angle of the band saw bed at that angle and cut the pins.The pic with the 16 inch saw has a carbite blade from laguna. ebony is nasty hard wood and gums up my blade on the 14 inch blade.So i choose the big saw. The other saw has a olsen.020 thin kerf i think its a 14tpi. It will work but it is slow and sometimes i get a really good blade and i try to keep it as long as possible.
(http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=92855&stc=1&d=1216587195)
I am sure you know about marking out .Getting everything flat and square it is important for good results.Do you follow so far?92855

92856

[Peter Quadarella]

Thanks Andrew. I do follow. I am using a 10 degree block but other than that it all makes sense so far. I am practicing with some cheap construction pine right now and using a 1/4" Timberwolf blade, on my 17" Grizzly bandsaw.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi peter, I cut the pins first because its easer for me to mark the second half.Forgot to answer you sorry.I also stick some 220 to the side of the guide block the keep from slipping.I flip it over to do the other angle i also have a magnifier to get right next to the line.Here is a pic of a box i made using my band saw.92863

92864

[Peter Quadarella]

Beautiful dovetails Andrew, thanks for the pictures. I have a bunch of questions, if you don't mind:
Do you ever use spacer blocks to space the dovetails or do you just mark them as normal? Also, do you use a stop block or just cut to the line? Once they are cut, do you chisel out the waste or use a saw? Do you tilt the table both ways for the pins?

[Andrew Hughes]

I mark the wood with a pencil and move the fence.White if the wood is dark.
Sometimes i use the stop if the wood is expensive to avoid a over cut mistake.
To remove most of the waste i cut a groove big enough to get the coping saw blade in sideways.I stick a slice from a galvanized shingle to keep from cutting the pin or tail.I will 92915

92916send a pic.
Yes i tilt the table both ways.Same angle as the guide block.Being careful to match as close as i can.
I also clamp a jointed piece of hard maple to the line and chop.A thin scribe line is hard to see so i use magnifier to be on the mark.I will send a pic.Hope this helps.

[Peter Quadarella]

Thanks Andrew! I'm having so much trouble with the spacers that I think I will do it your way first. You have been very helpful, I really appreciate it. :)