Radial arm saw elevation, how to cusomize?

[Stephen Tashiro]

I bought a used Craftsman radian arm saw. ( It's predates the "electronic" version and yes, I have ordered the new guard kit for it that is available via Emerson's free recall offer.) I need to mount it on a table and attach a new wooden work surface, which is missing.

Is there a good way to customize the elevation crank arrangement on this kind of saw?

I owned one of the saws in the 1980's and I always found it inconvenient to reach under the work table and turn the crank. I would prefer not to reach so far and it would be nice to have a larger diameter crank. (I've thought about taking the crank off and putting the elevation shaft into the chuck of a large reversible electric drill - or is that going too far?)

I'd also like to know if there is a lubrication point for the elevation gears. I don't have the manual for the saw.

[Charles Lent]

You should get a new blade guard and a new table top in the recall package from Emerson, so you won't need to make a table top.

Lubrication is slightly different depending on the model. Go to www.owwm.com and see if they have the manual for your saw model. They are a good source for manuals and other information on old woodworking machinery. Take the time to clean, lubricate, and calibrate the saw per the manual and it should perform like new again.

I wouldn't advise using a drill to raise and lower the column. After lubrication and calibration you will likely find that it raises and lowers easily with the crank.


Charley

[Stephen Tashiro]

I didn't find any manuals for the saw at that site. However, now that I have hefted the saw up on a table, I notice that I can look at the bottom of the column that supports the arm and the elevation gears are all exposed underneath this column. So that aspect of lubrication looks easy.

[Rick Thom]

Charles has it right.
It would be well worthwhile to get your hands on a manual (@40 pages). It is very detailed including parts list and assembly instructions etc, as well as instructions to set up the saw including alignment. The instructions provided by Emerson for the retrofit aren't as good as the originals.
The manual recommends periodic cleaning and lube of 3 or 4 locations which are obvious and all relate to the movement of the head (sae 30 oil). There's 1 other and that's for the long elevation screw housed inside the large verticle post. Look along the column for an oil hole which allows you to drip some oil onto the screw mechanism.
Another thing that is worthwhile noting is use good, sharp purpose-made blades if you want the saw to cut well. I've always used c-man blades, but recently switched to Freud thin kerf. This saw isn't a power house ( 11 amp motor) so good blades are important.

btw, I purchased mine new 1980-01-20.. $630.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I'll look for the thin kerf blades..

While lubricating the saw ( model 113.197750 ) I got tired of cranking the elevation knob up and down to work the lubricant in. So I took my own suggestion about taking the crank handle off the elevation shaft and putting the shaft in the chuck of a drill. It requires a "half inch" drill to do this and the only thing I had handy was a Bosch hammer drill. So I set it not to hammer and put the shaft into it. This worked great! It accomplished the goal of making it easy to elevate the saw and it also extends the control for the elevation further toward the front of the saw table. I don't know whether I can learn to do an accurate setting of elevation with the drill, but the control is good enough to set it for thru-cutting.

The lubricated saw elevates manually as easily as store display models or my memory of the 1980's saw that I purchased new. However that is still more work that I want to do to elevate it.

[Gary Lange]

Here is a Manual on that saw I got lucky on putting in Craftsman Radial Arm Saw 113.197750. So here is the link.

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/pub/sp5983-2.pdf

[Gary Lange]

Also as far as customizing the crank handle it shouldn't be a problem at all. Just get a small universal joint or just run an extension on the shaft out to the edge of the new table and put the crank out there.

[Stephen Tashiro]

Thank you very much for the manual !

As to the crank, I can't resist trying out the idea of using a drill and building it into the workt table for the saw. I went to Lowes and got the cheapest 1/2 inch drill that they had, which turned out to be a Black and Decker "Firestorm VSR".

[Jeff Duncan]

Now what you need to do is pick up a pulley that will fit on the crankshaft, a v- belt, and a small maybe 1/4 hp motor, and you can build yourself a powered lift. Wire it up to a reversing switch and you would be good to go:D
That would be a good example of good ole' fashioned American ingenuity at work.
good luck,
JeffD