Straight face frame, bowed carcass, now what?

[Bruce Brurud]

I'm building a fairly large (5 1/2 x 6 ft.) display case out of Birch ply with oak face frames. Got the carcass done and glued up the face frame nice and square to fit. I pulled the face frame out of the clamps last night, all excited to attach to the carcass, and found out the sides of the carcass bow in about 3/8". I can force the sides out some, but I'm still going to have to sand the edge of the face frame flush to the carcass side. My concern is that I'll sand through the veneer. Anybody have any tricks to avoid sanding on the wrong side of the joint? Thanks!

[Todd Bin]

ok. I guess I would put some biscuits in the face frame and carcase. Then I would use a clamp (turn around one side) so that it will push the sides apart. Then glue and clamp the face frame on. The face frame should be strong enough to hold the cabinet square.

let's see what some others have to say.

[Joe Scharle]

I can't remember one that was 3/8, but 1/4 - 3/16 happens to me all the time with BORG ply. Pocket screws have pulled it in so far.
Joe

[Ed Peters]

you should be able to deflect the sides to match the face frame without too much effort. Ply is notoriouse for flex. In the few cases where sanding is required, I would use a cabinet scraper first and sand as a final step. Can't speak for most but I have more control with the scraper because I can see all around it rather than concealing 5" to one side or the other of the spot I am concentrating on with the ros. Other ideas, cut a shallow rabbet on the sides of the face frame to hold the ply sides where you want them. Have seen many pieces where the face frame is proud of the sides by up to 3/16" to minimize the effort required to make a good connection. The overhang looks like a design element.

good luck,
ed

[Jay Jolliffe]

Just about all the cabinets that I build the face frame is proud of the carcass 1/8" on the sides. I just like the look...If you don't like that take a router with a pattern bit & rout the ff to the cabinet...Like in the previous posts plywood has some flex & you might be able to get like the others have said....

[Bruce Brurud]

Oh man....if only you guys could see how red my face is now. Router and flush trim bit, of course! Why am I even looking at my belt sander? Some days I think I should stick with what I know, which means I'd be doing....uhmmm....well.... I'm sure I'd find something.:o I also like the reversed clamp idea, much better than the stick-o-wood that I was thinking of using. Thanks everybody!

[glenn bradley]

If possible (without showing) I would pocket hole the face frame on.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I like to clamp or otherwise attach a straight board to the carcase just behind the frame before I attach the face frame, then you don't have to worry about trying to force the case straight while you are trying to attach the frame, its already done.

[Peter Quinn]

I'd get a couple of Irwin quick clamps that act as spreaders if you turn the jaws around. Just push the bow out of that carcus, the FF should hold it in. You could tack a strip on the back side to hold it in place till you get the real back on, and use the spreader on the front while you attach the ff. Or you could cut a few ply strips that equal what the distance should be and slide them into place while you attach the FF to keep that opening opened.

I would not sand the ply. That sends you down a long dangerous twisted road. Almost better off to remake the carcus, letting the FF overlap by 1/8" to 1/4" this time.