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Robert Alexander
07-15-2008, 10:42 PM
I thought I might post this for fellow creekers. I could be a good item to make for wedding receptions. I took two pieces of matte board ( which are the brides colors) and make a wedding doiley that goes under a woven basket were everyone put in their wedding cards. At the greeting table for the wedding reception. This can also be done out of two different colors of fabric.

Frank Corker
07-16-2008, 7:44 AM
Robert, very nice workpiece. I have to be honest that I really don't know what matte board is, it might be called something else over here, who knows. What is the process that you used to make it? Are the two pieces glued together and then lasered or both seperately lasered and glued together.

Dee Gallo
07-16-2008, 8:53 AM
Robert - seems a shame to put that nice work under a basket!

cheers, dee

Scott Shepherd
07-16-2008, 10:03 AM
Frank, it's the material used in a picture frame that puts space between the edge of the frame and the photo itself. It's a thick, paper product, laminated with a final finish on the top side, and often a white core.

Frank Corker
07-16-2008, 12:18 PM
Right, I know the stuff now, didn't realise it was called Matte board. That's the second thing I've learned this month!

Robert Alexander
07-16-2008, 5:52 PM
Frank,
I used 2 pieces of .125" thick matte board to make the wedding mat. The bottom piece (the cream colored piece) is just lasered with the outline of the upper red colored piece, and I made it about .750" bigger than the top piece. It took about 30 minutes to laser the upper red piece. Which took me about 3 hours to draw in Autosketch. The nice thing is that the next time I do one of these, I only need to change the lettering. Also I took a toothpick with a drop of glue, and applied it in different areas of the matte. The customer of this matte will probably put it in a picture frame after the wedding reception.

Albert Nix
07-16-2008, 8:14 PM
Just corious about how much you would charge for such a nice piece?
Looks like it would be hard to come out when it is that time consuming.

George M. Perzel
07-17-2008, 7:36 AM
Frank;
Just to clarify, as we have a tendency on this side of the pond to murder the Queen's english by assigning new meanings to words- it's called MAT board, not MATTE. The later refers to a type of finish, i.e, no gloss.
Best regards;
George
LaserArts

Frank Corker
07-17-2008, 6:18 PM
Thanks George, I'd figured that one out after I found out what it was. It's okay, I love you guys anyway so it doesn't make any difference to me.

Robert, it's a beautiful piece, I know they will be happy to have it there. It is a shame it gets hidden, but they can always have it as a keepsake of the big day.

Robert Alexander
07-17-2008, 7:24 PM
Albert,
You asked about pricing. on this piece. I would charge about $45.00. That's about 30 minutes for lasering and 15 minutes for prep and finish work. If it was more complex the price would go up. The cad drawing time that I invested in would be recouped after doing 4 or 5 of these. I like doing custom art work, that's not on a clip art CD. I find that after doing the first run of something I have created, (like this wedding doiley) I allways find that the next one I can make quicker.

Peter Meacham
07-17-2008, 9:01 PM
Frank - Put That Thing Down - You Could Put Someone's Eye Out

Dee Gallo
07-17-2008, 9:04 PM
Frank, you need to change your signature name to "Corker: Frank Corker" to go with the 007 pose.

I still think of you smiling in the first pic, dee

Jim Watkins
07-18-2008, 1:05 AM
Albert,
You asked about pricing. on this piece. I would charge about $45.00. That's about 30 minutes for lasering and 15 minutes for prep and finish work. If it was more complex the price would go up.

Robert, don't take this wrong but I think you are seriously devaluing the work and product your providing. I think most of us usually charge about $2 dollars/minute for laser time. Your time, your laser and it's maintenance have to be taken into account. If you had quite a bit of regular work say 20-40 hours per week, I might see giving a break in the per minute charge, but not down to $1 though.

Your worth more than that Robert.

Lisa Walter
07-18-2008, 7:28 PM
He may be devaluing his work, but I can tell you in certain parts of the country (USA) that wouldn't sell for $45. Where I am at in particular, people are NOT spending money right now and to try and get more than $45 for that (even though it SHOULD sell for more) just won't fly. Maybe the bigger cities you might get someone to spend that much, but not in the country. On the internet or in a magazine you'd find the people who will spend more but probably not many locals. I'm speaking for my area of course.

Craig Hogarth
07-18-2008, 8:01 PM
I agree with you Lisa. For the most part, I don't price based upon my time, but more on what the market will bear. Some items, I make 50 cents a minute, some might bring up to $5 a min.

While I think that's a nice product, I don't think I'd be able to sell it for $45 in my area.

John Frazee
07-21-2008, 10:39 AM
Robert,
Do you mind posting the cdr file for that? That really looks amazing and I'm sure others would want it as well. We all charge what we feel we can get by with and around here, It would have to be sold to a prominate family for that cost. The layout could open other ideas as well. Thanks!

Robert Alexander
07-21-2008, 9:16 PM
If you would like the pattern send me a e-mail. the file is too big to post on the Creek.

Darren Null
07-21-2008, 10:18 PM
You can zip it up...you're allowed 1.91Mb then.

Robert Alexander
07-21-2008, 11:13 PM
Ahhha........ I learn something new every day! Now the problem is will I remember to do this next time.

Roy Brewer
07-23-2008, 12:17 PM
Robert,

I'm intrigued by the optimization; did it just turn out that way after using the tools of Autosketch to create it? If not, was Autosketch used to optimize after completion? Or, what external program was used to optimize it?

I've put this on my "todo" list to duplicate in CorelDRAW eliminating all the penup/pendown which won't help much with lasering, but for mechanical engraving, routing, vinyl cutting will cut the production time in half (I guestimate).

Robert Alexander
07-23-2008, 7:25 PM
Roy Brewer said

I'm intrigued by the optimization; did it just turn out that way after using the tools of Autosketch to create it? If not, was Autosketch used to optimize after completion? Or, what external program was used to optimize it?

Roy,
That's the way it turned out after drawing it in Auto Sketch. When you import a CAD file into Corel you can use the object manager tool to decide what get cut first. But I have not learned that one yet(that's on my to do list). Also when I did this wedding doiley, I only designed a 5 degree section of it from the center(except for the hearts) to the outside of the part, then I used a command called circular array that drew out the other 71 parts. You can do some very complex designs with Auto Sketch.

Frank Corker
07-24-2008, 3:53 AM
Wow, I had a really good look at that doily, it's really good.

Robert Alexander
07-24-2008, 10:23 AM
Frank,
Thank you for the compliment on my work.:)

Roy Brewer
07-26-2008, 2:59 PM
You can do some very complex designs with Auto Sketch.
Robert,

Thanks for the challenge! I duplicated your doily from scratch in CorelDRAW. (Following is screen capture, not engraved.) Every object is a closed shape and I'd guestimate this will take at least 25% off the laser time, but I haven't confirmed that.
93244

Roy Brewer
07-26-2008, 3:15 PM
You can do some very complex designs with Auto Sketch.
Robert,
The following screen shot is from the lower left quandrant of your file. Can you see a the gaps/overlaps? Most of the areas are "dead on."

Would you please confirm if this is AutoSketch issue or an import error coming into CorelDRAW(X4)? That is, are these in your AutoSketch file?
93245

Roy Brewer
07-26-2008, 3:39 PM
You can do some very complex designs with Auto Sketch.
All,
If anyone interested here is the doily created from scratch in X4(saved in Corel9).
93265

Mike Null
07-26-2008, 6:22 PM
I agree and that's one reason I don't do artistic or novelty type items. In St. Louis we just can't get paid for the time.

People look at it as machine made without realizing the talent and time involved.

Dee Gallo
07-26-2008, 9:09 PM
I have down loaded files before, using "save as" - - -

But for some reason, neither Robert's nor Roy's doilies will open. Both were dowloaded but only show a blank grey screen with properties indicating no fill and black lines.

What am I doing wrong this time?

thanks, dee

Frank Corker
07-27-2008, 7:17 AM
Dee I have put the two files on one cdr file and emailed it to you. See if you can see them. If you can't then there must be something in your options that you have selected that we don't.

Dee Gallo
07-27-2008, 9:36 AM
Frank,

Thanks a million, that works perfectly! You might monkey around a lot, but it's no wonder others want to ape you, you're the King of the Jungle!

cheers, dee

Frank Corker
07-27-2008, 10:01 AM
Oi !! I resemble that remark....

Roy Brewer
07-27-2008, 11:32 PM
... but only show a blank grey screen ...Dee,
Sounds like Frank has taken care of you, but for future reference, are you renaming the file(s) as you save them?

Several try to change the .ZIP extension to .CDR in the "save as" field and the result will normally be the "blank gray screen" you described. {Or, depending on which version of CorelDRAW you are using, it will error out while trying to load the file.}

If that's what's happening, leave the ZIP extension as is until downloaded then upZIPing it will produce the .CDR file. While most of us use winZIP or similar, I think all current versions of Windows will upZIP without external utilities.

Robert Alexander
07-28-2008, 7:31 PM
Robert,
The following screen shot is from the lower left quandrant of your file. Can you see a the gaps/overlaps? Most of the areas are "dead on."

Would you please confirm if this is AutoSketch issue or an import error coming into CorelDRAW(X4)? That is, are these in your AutoSketch file?
93245

Roy, I checked the drawing in Auto Sketch. And you are right. There are some gaps and overlaps. They range in size from .006 to .009. The line that I made connected to a grid point instead of the end of the line. Then when I copied it 71 times to form the circle the gap and over lap was copied.But the size of the error will not be a problem. Except for the one line that I failed to remove on the upper panel left side where the letters go. It is a single line .509 inches long.:( Opps!
Seriousy I love working with paper and Mat board. I love doing vector art. One of these days I might do a cd or something. I know that I am going to sell my laser that I have ,and get a laser with a bigger cutting area, but with less power.
Also here is another vector cut out for you to try. Along with the image I drew it from. Enjoy.

Dee Gallo
07-28-2008, 7:40 PM
Thanks, Roy, you guessed it - I renamed the file as I saved it, to avoid having every download having the same name. I didn't do that every time, so that explains the skippy results. But from now on i will do it your way and be happy!

thanksagain, dee


Dee,
Sounds like Frank has taken care of you, but for future reference, are you renaming the file(s) as you save them?

Several try to change the .ZIP extension to .CDR in the "save as" field and the result will normally be the "blank gray screen" you described. {Or, depending on which version of CorelDRAW you are using, it will error out while trying to load the file.}

If that's what's happening, leave the ZIP extension as is until downloaded then upZIPing it will produce the .CDR file. While most of us use winZIP or similar, I think all current versions of Windows will upZIP without external utilities.

Nick Napier
08-08-2008, 9:22 AM
Hello, Unless you use a stencil font, is part of the finish work glueing back in the small pieces of matte board from the lettering that falls out. Is there another way of dealing with the lettering. Looks like A's O's E's etc parts would need to be replaced after lasering. Am I missing something?

Nick Napier

Ps Great job designing this piece.

Robert Alexander
08-08-2008, 5:44 PM
Nick,
This is how I do letters without using a stencil font in Corel 12.

I will type out the letters.Get them sized properly, and spaced where I want them to go on the lasered item

I then convert the letters to curves, then change the line size to hairline, and
get rid of the font color by changing it to white.

I then turn on only snap to objects, and use the smart drawing tool to draw
lines in areas that I want to delete in the next step.

I then use the virtual segment delete tool to go to each of the letters and
remove parts of the letter so they do not fall out when lasering.

If this has you confused see the Corel file that I put on with this post.
I used Valdimir Script, Which is a narrow font. And went through the steps
to make a sort of stenciled font. By doing this way you can decide what looks best for you application (breaking apart the letters in different areas for example).

I hope this helps.:)

David Brasfield
08-08-2008, 9:52 PM
Hi.

Maybe I misunderstood what you wanted to do, but here is one solution to a vector/etch combination situation with lettering. It is slow to laze due to the extra raster work, but it saves some corel work depending on how fast you need to turn out the product.

http://www.epiloglaser.com/tl_textoutline.htm

David

Nick Napier
08-10-2008, 1:27 PM
Gentlemen thanks for the education. Signing on here is better than staying at a Holiday Inn Express. Thanks Robert for the doily file and the lettering info. If you ever need any info on silicone wristbands or pictures on dogtags, let me know.

Nick

Frank Corker
08-10-2008, 5:31 PM
God I do - are you in England?

Nick Napier
08-10-2008, 11:14 PM
Hello, Sorry Indiana, United States here, but I can get there pretty fast with email.

Nick

Nick Napier
08-12-2008, 11:38 AM
Hi Robert, Thanks for posting the tutorial on the homemade stencil procedure. I do a couple of things different. I right click on the no fill box ( the one with the x in it on the color patchs) Then right click on the black box below. That takes away color and puts a hairline around the text. But both work.

Nick

Robert Alexander
08-12-2008, 9:48 PM
Hi Robert, Thanks for posting the tutorial on the homemade stencil procedure. I do a couple of things different. I right click on the no fill box ( the one with the x in it on the color patchs) Then right click on the black box below. That takes away color and puts a hairline around the text. But both work.

Nick
That's why I love the internet and forums like sawmill creek. The exchange of ideas , information and learning new things. :)

Nick Napier
08-12-2008, 11:52 PM
Hi Robert, I actually told you incorrectly, which you probably found out by now. You left click on the no fill then right click on the next box down. My wife will be proud of me, I admitted to a mistake.

Nick