segmented glue?... DNA container

[Ron Bontz]

Just a quick question from an old guy with too many options and no brain. What type of glue do you segmented masters use for your turnings. I've always used Titebond or Elmers pro bond for my spindle turnings. ie: lamps and such. Also how well do those Plastic 5 gal buckets hold up with DNA in them? Thanks.

[Mike Minto]

Ron, you just made a post I'd like to have written. Two good questions to those of us new to segmented turning. Can't wait to read some answers! Mike

[David Drickhamer]

These glues will work fine but let it dry for a couple days.

[Maylon Harvey]

5 gal plastic buckets work fine for DNA. That's where mine is.

[Richard Madison]

Titebond II. Dry one hour (or less) before handling or light sanding, two hours before heavy sanding or very light turning. If chicken like me, dry four hours before heavy turning. Some folks do it faster. Dry overnight for maximum strength.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Titebond II and the 5 gal bucket will be fine if the lid fits fairly tight.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Titebond I; it has the best tack during clamping and you don't need the waterproof feature of the II. Titebond III is over-rated and it dries darker than the original.

[Jim Maxwell]

I have been using Titebond 2 to asses it's properties. I find it very good. Normally I use a Selleys product, 'Tradesmans Choice', it is a cross linked, polyaliphtic adhesive (a pva) with very similar properties.
Jim

[curtis rosche]

5 gallon buckets work well, i have mine in a empty pool chemical bucket with a screw on snap tight lid,

[mike fuson]

I have used Franklin ,Elmers, Wilsonart, Titebond 1 , and they all will work fine but I would give the edge to the Titebond which is what I think they call the original.
My dna is in a plastic 35 gallon trash can. I like the bigger container for the bigger pieces or multiple pieces at once. As long as its got a good snug lid no problem.

[Ben Gastfriend]

And if your 5-gallon bucket isn't big enough, put it in a heavy duty plastic trash baga and pour the DNA in to cover.

[Jim Maxwell]

I think I am missing something here. What is DNA and what part does it play in the gluing process? Can someone enlighten me please?
Jim

[Nathan Hawkes]

DNA is denatured alcohol--100% alcohol that is an ethanol/methanol mixture. There's a little bit of methanol (wood alcohol) added, which is very toxic, and makes it undrinkable. It is used to aid drying green wood bowls; unrelated to the gluing process. Two seperate questions.

[Nathan Hawkes]

And if your 5-gallon bucket isn't big enough, put it in a heavy duty plastic trash baga and pour the DNA in to cover.



Never tried this, but I plan to. I have a couple big blanks that I need to rough out and leave for later....

[Scott Conners]

I think Ron was asking two questions in one post - firsdt about glues, then about what container to use to hold denatured alcohol for drying wood. The DNA drying process involves soaking a peice in DNA for a few hours/days so the alcohol can penetrate and replace the water in the wood, then the blank is dried in paper in 14-21 days to a cured state. More info here.
(http://www.google.com/search?q=denatured+alcohol+wood+drying&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a)

[Jim Maxwell]

Thank you gents, I have learnt something new. To dry out rough turned blanks, I bury them in saw dust in a cardboard box. A pine bowl turned from a freshly felled pine tree and treated this way, was finished in less than six weeks. This method eliminates the potential fire hazard, is cheaper and has about 95% success rate.
Thanks.... Jim

[Ron Bontz]

Thanks for the replies. And yes it was two questions in one post. Sorry for any confusion.