Well stain mess up a glue joint ????

[Bill Huber]

I am staining the parts to a table and have taped off everything for staining. While I was staining one of the tapes came off and some stain ran into the glue area.

Now will this area still hold glue or do I need to make a new apron part to replace it, it is only 17 1/2 long and I could make a new one with not a lot of trouble.

I am just not sure if the glue will hold over the stain.

[Mike Henderson]

I've never had any problems with gluing over stain. You might wipe it with alcohol or lacquer thinner to remove any oils and sand the surface lightly before gluing.

Mike

[I might point out that I don't intentionally put stain on glue surfaces but sometimes have problems as you had.]

[Bill Huber]

I've never had any problems with gluing over stain. You might wipe it with alcohol or lacquer thinner to remove any oils and sand the surface lightly before gluing.

Mike
Thanks Mike, that is just what I will do. I have some lacquer thinner and then I will give it a light sanding.

Thanks.

[glenn bradley]

I haven't had the experience (yet) but, the 'experts' sure go through a lot of trouble to avoid it.

[Steve Flavin001]

joint as mentioned, but if the glue is on the surface at all stain will not penetrate the glue and your finish, particularly if relatively dark will have blond spots.

[Jerry Olexa]

Glue & stain do not mix well generally but a little sanding should ease your concern...

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

What kind of stain?
Water or alcohol soluble stains won't but an oil stain will.
If it came in a MinWax can, it is Oil
If it's a store brand like Ace's private label or any of the borg's, it's oil.

[Bill Huber]

What kind of stain?
Water or alcohol soluble stains won't but an oil stain will.
If it came in a MinWax can, it is Oil
If it's a store brand like Ace's private label or any of the borg's, it's oil.

It is oil and I cleaned it up well with lacquer thinner and then sanded it, it looks like the glue is holding just fine after doing this.

[Steve Nouis]

I'd just scrape the stain off with a 1" paint scraper. I sharpen them on my belt sander, 150 grit or higher held on edge at about a 15* angle. It takes about 15 seconds and they cut real good. Steve

[Howard Acheson]

Depends on the stain. Oil based pigment stains contain a small amount of a binder (varnish) to adhere the pigment to the surface. Therefore, the stain will seal the pores of the wood. Waterbased adhesives like yellow glue rely on the thorough wetting of the wood fibers to get a strong joint. It the adhesive can not be absorbed, you will have a weakened joint. To salvage the joint, use a little chemical paint remover on the stained area following the directions on the label. Then lightly sand with a 150 grit paper. That should give you a strong joint.

Waterbased adhesives applied over dye stains will retain much of their strength so if you used a dye stain, you should not have a problem.