Ci, (C1)????? whatever it is, roughing tool question

[curtis rosche]

i was thinking of making my own roughing tool like the roughing tool i asked about a while ago. a number of you said you had one. i was thinking that i could get a peice of square stock from the store and put a handle on it, then grind and tap the end like the roughing tool, then i could put those carbide cutters on it. this should work right? and what angle is the grind on the tool?

[Paul Engle]

Curtis , thats all you need and a handle. I make em for people but I use round stock , grind relief on the end ,I use the round to use in my pipe collet handles. quick easy and under 12$ at your locale hardware store or borg even less . See my tutorial here it has link to my personnal web site.

[curtis rosche]

but what angle should the releif be?

[Paul Engle]

Most insert types come with either 7*, 11* or (0* for positive rake holders), actually anything that will clear the material below the cutting edge but not too extreme Curtis as you need material below the edge to support the bits cutting edge , most of the inserts I use are 7* and 0*, I use the 0* for sheer scraping and rubing the bevel helps prevent catches, keeps the bit flush to the face which keeps it from diging in and I rotate it 30* to the direction of travel to get a sheering slice on smoothing, with roughing I lead with the corner point with it sitting flat. Keep in mind that the more relief you grind the more agressive the bit may become, so for instance the positive rake (relief grind across the top of the scraper 5 * ground back from the edge 25% of width of the scraper ) scrapers are easer to work with as the edge does not try to suck it self into the wood but need sharpening more often.

[curtis rosche]

can you post a picture of your home made tool? i know what it should look like but my stepdad is haveing a hard time picturing it, the tool edge, how the bit connects to the bar. thanks

[Paul Engle]

Here ya go , try my web site
This page has more shots of the cutter , I have sence changed from the fillister head machine screws to flat head , you do not have crank down hard but very snug as the pressure from turning is transfered to bit holder as long as the flat spot it sits on is dead flat .... must be dead flat , there is a tri angle bit also on there and I use it for sheer work but it must be sharpened as has a chip breaker groove in for metal work.
http://mysite.verizon.net/respwkup/stuff/id13.html