Grease for TS Trunnion Gears?

[Art Davis]

I have dismantled my Delta contractor's saw to clean it up and install PALS before aligning it.

I have found that the worm gear that drives the blade lift is packed full of what at one time was undoubtedly grease. Now it has hardened to about the consistency of paving tar.

I have cleaned it off using a cleaner and a set of dental tools that a friend gave me long ago. (His wife was a dental assistant.) I have found that for tough jobs like this, they work very well. After all, they are for scraping stuff off our teeth! It just occurred to me that you might find this to be of interest. They are probably available cheap or free if you know your dentist because I imagine they toss them when they get anywhere near dull.

Now down to the question: what kind of grease should I apply to avoid this happening again? I have some lithium grease. Would that work? If not, just what should I use?

Thanks.

Art

[Howard Acheson]

Use furniture paste wax on the heli gears that raise/lower and tilt the blade. Apply it with an old toothbrush working the crank to get to all the gear surface. Paste wax is an excellent low speed lubricant and sawdust will not stick to it. It also cleans off any prior gunk. Using a grease will attract and hold sawdust. Use a drop of 20 weight electric motor oil on the bearings that carry the crank shafts. Avoid any lubrication on the arbor bearing unless called for in the owner's manual. Most are sealed bearings.

[Jacob Reverb]

When I got my contractor's saw, I cleaned off all that grease with a toothbrush and mineral spirits/Brakeleen/etc., and after it was super-clean, I sprayed the racks and worm gears with graphite spray.

If you use grease, no matter what, it will attract sawdust and eventually make a mess and seize up from all the crud that gets in there. (Sawdust is also abrasive.) The graphite holds up a LOT longer before you have to clean it out again.

[Travis Lavallee]

Just as a side note, most of the dental offices won't throw their tools away once they become dull. If this were true, your dentist may come and ask to have your chisels once they are dull.:rolleyes: A small sharpening stone is used in much the same manner a woodworker would to get them back into shape. Then they are run through the sterilizer (as they would be even if not sharpened) and put back to use.

[glenn bradley]

I use a spray-on dry teflon lube. No sawdust build up.

[Art Davis]

I use a spray-on dry teflon lube. No sawdust build up.

Any brand names you could recommend on the dry teflon lube?

Howard: The past wax also sounds interesting. What do you do, fill the grooves between threads? In other words, how lmuch do I apply?

Jacob: The graphite seems to make sense. I have seen that recommended in at least one table saw book. My question is, just what keeps the graphite on? I think the type of graphite powder that you squirt into a lock just wouldn't adhere. And if something adheres to the metal, won't the sawdust adhere to it as well?

Travis: Thanks for the note on the dental tools. I hadn't realized that they were "sharpenable"---particularly at the fees my dentist charges! (I just assumed he tossed them, just as MD's toss anything used once.) But I guess that shoots any thoughts I had about replacing them when they go west on me!

Art

[glenn bradley]

Any brand names you could recommend on the dry teflon lube?

Howard: The past wax also sounds interesting. What do you do, fill the grooves between threads? In other words, how lmuch do I apply?

Jacob: The graphite seems to make sense. I have seen that recommended in at least one table saw book. My question is, just what keeps the graphite on? I think the type of graphite powder that you squirt into a lock just wouldn't adhere. And if something adheres to the metal, won't the sawdust adhere to it as well?

Travis: Thanks for the note on the dental tools. I hadn't realized that they were "sharpenable"---particularly at the fees my dentist charges! (I just assumed he tossed them, just as MD's toss anything used once.) But I guess that shoots any thoughts I had about replacing them when they go west on me!

Art

Let me run out to the garage . . . . . . Du Pont Teflon MULTI-USE Lubricant (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=213197-39963-D00110101). Lowes carries it near the white grease and graphite products. Won't warp rubber like WD but it does contain a small amount of propane.

[Wayne Cannon]

"Tri-Flo" was recommended by my locksmith to avoid exactly the same kind of crud build-up from other lubricants (including graphite, in the case of the enclosed space of a lock).

[Dave Bender]

I like to use a motorcycle chain lube. One product that works well (doesn't attract dust like grease, but leaves a much thicker film than triflow) is Amsoil Heavy Dust Metal Protectant.

[Jerome Hanby]

My Dad and Grandfather used Tri-flo for years gunsmithing. It's great stuff!


"Tri-Flo" was recommended by my locksmith to avoid exactly the same kind of crud build-up from other lubricants (including graphite, in the case of the enclosed space of a lock).

[Jacob Reverb]

The graphite spray I use is called "Dryphite" and it's made by Kano Laboratories. It applies like spray paint and seems to stick pretty well...dunno how, but it works.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I got some PTFE spray at the BORG that has no silicone in it. It goes on and drys. Shot My Trunnion and it's slick as you please.

[Joe Scharle]

It Du Pont Teflon MULTI-USE Lubricant (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=213197-39963-D00110101). does work well. I let it setup a few minutes, for once dry it won't attract dust.