Drawing Curves

[John Henry Newman]

Hello all,

As a hobbyist, I have only aspired to build things that are straight, flat, and square. As the proud new owner of a Grizzly 0513X2 band saw, I am looking to add some curvature to my work. I am wondering what is available to a guy like me, who has absolutely NO artistic ability at all, to lay out nice, smooth-looking curves?

Thanks for your help in advance!

[John Thompson]

A set of French curves which are cheap.. a symetrical an asymetrical bow you can either make. LV has some very nice fiber-glass one's that won't lose shape over time but the big plus is the strap and buckle. Allows you to set up the curve almost instantly.

I have been using my own home-made for 37 years but just purchased the LV's. I splurged as my shop and tools have been complete for years now.

Sarge..

[Peter Quinn]

Check out this months FWW, excellent article on this exact subject. Their pictures are much better than my descriptions. Also has good suggestions on blade types, saw set up, discussion of non regular curves (freehand) vrs true radius or segment curves. Nice intro/synopsis of curved work.

The first step is drawing/design. A french curve is a good start. I have often used a thin bendable stick (1/16" or so) with a little block of steel taped to each end to lay out free form curves. They make a flexible rubber thing for compound curves like a giant ogee too. There is no trick or gadget which can train your eyes to create pleasing flowing curves freehand. Just practice and play till it feels and looks right to you. Its a skill you need to build like any other, some are more intuitive at it than others but it is within your reach.

I keep a 4X8 sheet of 1/4" MDF in my plywood rack to use as a giant full size drawing board, sometimes I score free 1/8" plywood from my lumber yard that they use to protect bunks of cabinet grade ply during shipping. This also makes a good drawing board as does card board. I find it easier to create curves full sized than to make scale models and try to scale up for the actual work.

For true radius work I use trammel points attached to a stickwith a pencil in one point (they were my grandfathers which gives me a smile each time I use them) for large work and a compass for smaller things.

[Frank Drew]

I'm with Peter on the value of doing full-sized layouts for certain jobs; they not only help you better visualize your project but you can take your measurements directly from them.

[Thomas Pender]

John-

For drawing on boards before the bandsaw, I recommend the following low tech tool - a drawing bow. What is that? Lee Valley sells a fiberglass drawing (curving) bow (yellow in color itf it matters) that adjusts with a string. (You might even be able to make one.) If your curve is longer, then mark a center point and just draw to it from each side. I use it all of the time - it is one of those rare and fairly inexpensive tools, like a good ruler, that your are happy you bought.

Also, use a 1/4" wide blade or less on your band saw (to get around the curve) and if you need help holding the peice up as you feed, enlist SWMBO, a handy teenager, or a willing buddy with a promise that it will only take 10 minutes (and it should). Don't forget to not cut on the line but off of it a bit - perhaps 1/16" and to make it clear you control the feed rate, not your assistant. However, unless you are well skilled with a draw knife or something similar, you will need an OSS to smooth it to the line. (Good excuse to buy another tool.)

Hope this helps.

Tom Pender

[Greg Cole]

Might not need be said, but for cutting curves NEVER use your resaw blade or you'll be buying another one to resaw with.
The others have you on the right path for drawing curves.

Cheers.
Greg

[John Henry Newman]

Thanks to all of you for the great advice! I've ordered two drawing bows from LV and I look forward to making things "bendy" as it were.

Thanks again!

[Robin Cruz]

any thin material can be bent into a natural curve and traced onto wood. I just use some scrap handy and cut off a this slab

[Larry Fox]

Fww #175 had an article called Drawing Big Curves and was authored by Paul Schürch. It is also available via their site if you have a subscription.

[John Thompson]

Once you get your curve drawn John Henry.. all is not said and done. Thomas touched on it and since I did a curved base board for a chest between 5 PM and 6:30 PM today... I just took some pictures so you can see my (just one method of cutting them smooth) method I have used for years.

I build a template from 1/2" MDF as Thomas described and use the OSS.. files.. rasp.. sand-paper etc. carefully taking it to the line. This might take a while but better to mess up getting perfect than on real stock. Once that is done the actual cutting of baby butt smooth and consistent curves only takes a very short time.

Template is done.. use the template to draw a line on the stock. Take it to the BS (I use a 1/4" skip tooth) and make relief cuts. Then cut to 1 mm of the line. Once done.. screw the template on the back of the actual stock. The only thing showing on the edge of the template will be the excess 1 mm you left.

Mount an over-head pattern bit in your router table and one simple pass takes it to the exact shape you worked for on the template. You can do 50-100 of the same one with the one template.. so save it if you are only doing a few. You never know when you might use the pattern again.

The one I am working with here was originally formed for a 6 drawer chest but only one piece of a 4 piece bedroom suit for my wife. I am using the same template to do the TV stand and 3-2 chest on chest.

This is a simple.. repetitive.. exact method of doing baby butt smooth curves every time. No chance of slip-up on the OSS at this point. It is just one method but the one I have used for years now as I find it the most effective.

I will have to split the picture to two post as you can only do 5 in one post I believe.

Good luck...

Sarge...

[John Thompson]

Conclussion after screwing the template on in the last picture.... the last picture here is a mitered base just butted up for the picture. It has not been attached yet as I do it with secret mitered dove-tails...

Hope that helps....