Best way do to a wood panel glue-ups

[Anthony Whitesell]

To date all the projects I have attempted I have been able to find and use a single board to cover the width that I needed. On of my upcoming projects is to build a replica of a current coffee table. The ends, top and lower shelf are all 15-17 inches wide, ~48 inches long, and 1/2" thick. From what I have seen, a single piece of wood for each of the items would be expensive and/or not very stable. That leaves me with my first attampt at doing a wood panel glue-up. I have found several options (see the poll above). Not all of them are options for me, but I'd like to see what the "prefered" method is here at the creek. There are some router methods and I included some MLCS part numbers for reference.

Currently at my disposal, I have a TS and router table with jointer fence and spiral bit and a half-dozen pipe clamps. I am planning on getting 3 or 4 three-way panel clamps as well as a few more pipe or bar clamps from Harbor Freight. Any other comments suggestions are very welcome.

[Mike Circo]

Panel glue up is one of the most essential processes in woodworking. Simple in most cases, done right it is as good or better than a solid panel.

I have done hundreds of panel glue-ups using only a "butt joint" as you call it. Technically an edge joint. Modern yellow wood glues, used on properly prepared joints are stronger than the wood itself. Biscuits, splines and other grooving techniques are just aids in aliging the two pieces.

This is my system:

1) Joint the edges of the pieces to be joined. Without a doubt, without a jointed edge, everything else is futile. Even biscuits, splines, etc can't close a bad joint.

2) Apply a thin coating of yellow glue to both edges. THIN is the word.

3) position the pieces in the clamps.

4) Begin clamping at one edge. Feeling for any height difference in the pieces and adjusting while tightning that first clamp.

5) Proceed with each clamp in order. Feeling for any lip or edge that would appear, Adjust in kind and tighten that clamp before moving on to the next one.

6) you should reach the last clamp quickly (the glue grabs quick) but the panel will be mostly flat.

Finally scrape off the glue squeeze out when it gets rubbery. Sand it perfectly flat with a belt sander or ROS.

Again. Special tools are not needed. But learning how to do a panel glue up is essential to nearly all projects.

m

[glenn bradley]

I use a butt joint most often. No joint failures to date. I sometimes use splines if it is a length of 4 feet or more just to simplify alignment.

[Paul Johnstone]

I picked biscuits, but I think the best way is with Plano Glue Clamps.. It's pricey though (around $350 for a basic set). Keep an eye out for them used though. They sometimes show up on ebay or craigslist.

[George Bregar]

Edge joint is all you need. SPlines, biscuits are just for alignment, but unless done with absolute precision, are worthless, and can actually cause problems.

[Thomas Williams]

For most panels I just use the edge joint. For longer glue ups, like a table top, I will use a spline. I make the cut for the spline with a router and a slot cutting bit. I reference off of the side that will be the show side.

[Peter Quinn]

I use but joints, yellow glue, and bowed cauls to keep things flat. Proper milling is essential. Few jointer fences can be set to a PERFECT 90 degrees over their entire length regardless of quality and kept there throughout their lifetime. Sorry to say it, but regardless of your skill its near impossible. And if you add a few seconds variation over a multi board glue up it can become a problem.

Luckily by simply reversing the face orientation of each adjoining piece to the jointer fence any variation can be largely canceled. One face in, the next face out, etc.

For raised panels with deep profiles and tables with exposed edges I find the glue joint bits a tad unsightly, but am considering getting one for other uses where these things don't apply.

The coolest thing I have seen for panel glue ups lately is called "Larry's clamp", one source is Schmidt. It is a pneumatic caul that applies 400# of pressure to keep things flat. Its too expensive for my small shop presently, but its worth checking out for fun if you are a tool junkie like I am. I saw one in action at a show this spring (Larry himself was demonstrating it!). It sure does its job better than any other option I've seen.

[Tom Esh]

I use a few 1/4" dowels (at least 3) just to maintain alignment. I've done a few without them, but I really don't care for the adreniline rush and stress of racing to get it aligned before the glue grabs.:D
The important thing about using dowels, biscuits, dominoes etc is to place them where you won't cut through one and wreck the edge appearance if you trim to final size after the glueup. That can be tricky if you plan to cut curved pieces from the panel. I usually do a rough layout of my cuts before glueup and then use chalk to clearly mark oversized "no dowel" areas.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

combination of butt joint and splines depending on the app and my mood.

I use a router table or saw to make the spline grooves and the saw and planer to make the spines