How to fit finials and collars?

[Mike Peace]

Can anyone point me to a "How To" on fitting finials and collars to hollow forms or small boxes? Seems to be a topic overlooked in the turning books I have on hand or the few turning DVDs I have seen.

I am just starting on small hollow forms I can do with the Sorby Midi hollowing tool and round side cutting scraper I have. Here are a couple less than 4" wide. The small one turned from green mulberry was my first and the walls are of course a little thick. The larger is from a dry piece of Ambrosia maple with somewhat thinner walls. I don't think either of this had the right form for a finial but wanted to experiment with them.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - I have to warn you that hollow forms are very addicting! That being said, Travis Stinson put together a great tutorial on collars http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45323

I like your two hollow forms - good basic shapes to them! Getting the walls thin comes with time and even then it depends on the shape and type of wood you are turning.

Have fun with it!

[Jon Lanier]

I think they look great! I've yet to try a hollow form, but I'll get there.

[Mike Peace]

Thanks, Steve. I had forgotten to look in Articles. That was very helpful.

[Ken Glass]

Mike,
For your first HF those are very good. Hollow forms are not easy to get right, in the beginning, but you did very well. I like both of them.

[Steve Mellott]

Mike:

I like the hollow forms! Are you going to be demonstrating this work on Saturday? See you then.

Steve

[Neal Addy]

Hi Mike. Sorry I'm late to this topic. I'm behind on threads.

Those are beautiful hollow forms. But I agree they would be a challenge to match with a lid/finial. That's not to say a wider open throat form won't work but you generally need a flatter top for good effect (see pic below). This allows a smoother transition from the body to the lid.

For mating the lid to the body I prefer a hollowed tenon (1/4" or so wall thickness) that seats into the rim. It doesn't have to be a tight fit. In fact, it's usually best not to be since any movement of the wood could cause it to stick. A 1/32" or so of wiggle room is good.

http://www.pbase.com/nealaddy/image/93318132/large.jpg

[Richard Madison]

Mike,
Excellent tutorial there by Travis. Addressing the question of fit, one can square the edge of the opening and measure with dial calipers. It can be handy to forstner drill the initial opening into a hollow form, and try not to mess it up while hollowing. Measure w/ dial calipers. Turn the tenon to fit, checking more frequently with calipers as you approach the size of the opening. Allowable "clearance" between tenon and opening depends on the project, of course. A few thou. for a glue joint, and more for a piece where the surfaces will be finished and the top will be removeable. For a removeable top, sometimes good to wax the mating surfaces after finishing.

I like both the pieces you showed, and think if you continued the line or shape onto the top or finial (like Neal's piece) it would look good.

[BILL DONAHUE]

As a newbie, I'm usually asking for advice, so this is a 1st time suggestion for me. At a class on hollowed forms we were shown a way to make finials and collars using an arbor screw chuck (p. 48 in Craft Supplies catalog - $34.99).

A 3/16" hole is pre-drilled in the wood and it is fitted on the arbor screw chuck. The tenon is then formed on the opposite side (where there is no hole) allowing you to add a design. It is then reversed putting the tenon in your regular chuck and the top is formed. If it's to be a collar, you already have a 3/16" hole to start hollowing. If it's to be a finial, you just shape a base for it and you already have a 3/16" hole in which the tenon on the bottom of your finial will go.

I've also used the arbor screw chuck to make fast and easy bangles/bracelets and have supervised my 15 and 11 year old daughters as they made theirs.