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John Noell
07-06-2008, 3:58 PM
We are JUST getting started and are wondering what variables make the most difference, or what is the best approach to use when you have a wood that engraves very cleanly but does not turn dark where engraved? We are testing various Fijian woods and one is a very soft "hardwood" that is light in color, with subtle grain. However, in our first tests it comes out looking as if mechanically engraved with no darkening at all. We could color fill but I was hoping for a darker engraving. Suggestions?

Angus Hines
07-06-2008, 4:12 PM
Slow your speed

Turn up the DPI

Turn up the Freq. or PPI on GCC Machines

Increase your power.

And it might just be the properties of that particular wood.

Larry Bratton
07-06-2008, 4:19 PM
We are JUST getting started and are wondering what variables make the most difference, or what is the best approach to use when you have a wood that engraves very cleanly but does not turn dark where engraved? We are testing various Fijian woods and one is a very soft "hardwood" that is light in color, with subtle grain. However, in our first tests it comes out looking as if mechanically engraved with no darkening at all. We could color fill but I was hoping for a darker engraving. Suggestions?
John,
What laser do you have? What power and speed settings are you using? That information will help get your questions answered. Most enter the laser they have and other equipment in their signature.

Unfortunately, some woods laser better than others. It may be a matter of pure experimentation until you arrive at what you want. Masks applied to your wood, and then engraved away, can help with adding fills or other coloring to the engraving.

John Noell
07-06-2008, 5:39 PM
I have an Epilog Mini 18 45W (and fixed the signature to show it!). I was starting with 300dpi, 25% speed and 100% power. I am sure that the wood is a major part of it. Another wood turned nicely black where lasered, except the sapwood part which stayed blond. I am hoping to maximize whatever potential this wood has for blackening (if any). We have a LOT of exotic hardwoods over here.

Darren Null
07-06-2008, 6:04 PM
What Angus said. Plus, try turning off air assist if you have it going.

Jack Harper
07-06-2008, 7:41 PM
Many on the Creek have reported good results by changing the color to a 70% - 80% gray. This may sound contrary to what you would think, but give it a try and you will see a big difference.

Jim Watkins
07-06-2008, 11:07 PM
As I understand from Epilog, the air assist only works while vector cutting. It should go through the bypass during raster operations.

Here is a photo of a test I recently did on some hard maple. Notice as I slow it down how the oils come to the surface and burns.

Hope this helps...