Blowing up pens on the lathe.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have started using the CA glue I got via the bulk buy program instead of the slow setting Poly glue. I have been experiencing the pens blanks blowing up and coming off the pen tubes and some so bad that it damaged the pen tube(s). Anybody got any hints about using this CA? I have turned several with it without any real issue...I've just had 3 pens blow up during turning due to glue failure on the CA glue. I have used the medium and the thick with the same results and I apply enough to cause it to "drip" while inserting. I even pre-coat each end of the wood blank before applying glue to the pen tubes. Any idears? :)

[Larry Gottlieb]

Use the CA glue for finish.
To glue in the tubes try polyurethane glue. You will have to wait overnight, but the tubes don't become loose.Drilling a 9/32" hole allows a little space so glue can expand.

Larry

[Dennis Peacock]

Larry,

I do use Poly glue....I was just trying to use the CA glue so my pen turn-around would be shorter than 2 or 3 days.

[Kent Cori]

Dennis,

I use CA glue for all my pen tubes and blanks. Have you tried roughing up the outside of the tube with some 150 grit (or so) sandpaper? That usually provides enough "bite" for the glue to hold in my experience.

[Daniel Yourdon]

Most messages I have read about using C.A. For glueing pen tubes have come around to mentioning using GAP filling CA. I'm not sure any of the CA's from the Bulk Buy Qualify. the gap filling is a Gel CA. the closest I would think these glues come to that is the rubberized and I wouldn't be confident enough to consider it gap filling. the problem I imagine with Ca is that while it is still liquid it is thicker in a way do to the nature of liquid and surface tension, like water beading. but when it dries it is a very thin layer. hope that mde since. in short the gap may be full when the ca is wet, but far from it when it dries.
I've just never liked the idea of CA for gluing tubes myself.

[Keith Outten]

Dennis,

I recently switched to Gorilla Glue for pen blanks. I did some research and many people said that the CA glue would crystalize over time and lose it's hold. Since the pens we make are really designed to last for decades it seems a shame to use a glue that isn't permanent. I agree that it isn't as fast or efficient having to wait overnight for blanks to dry but I haven't had any problems with blanks since I switched to poly glue.

When the poly glue foams as it is drying it does seep out of the ends of the blank and it is more time consuming to have to dress the ends of the blanks square again. On Corian this is irritating and I am now machining the ends with an abrasive disk to remove the glue, but the quality of the bond is so much better than CA glue. I tested one blank and tried to pry off the Corian with a screwdriver...it was impossible to remove the Corian without totally destroying the material.

I haven't tried a pen mill to machine the ends yet and I wonder if it would chip the ends of the Corian.

[Daniel Yourdon]

Keith,
I've used a mill on corian with no problem. In fact I think many of the acrylics woudl be more apt to crack etc from the mill than corian.

[Larry Gottlieb]

Dennis, if you want to cut the drying time for tubes, you might try 5 minute 2 part epoxy.You have to wait at least an hour (I believe)
Jay Pickens who is an innovative, superb pen turner uses the epoxy for gluing all tubes. He also says that he doesn't bother to roughen the tubes before gluing. I've tried it but I'm still happier with the polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)

Larry

[Dennis Peacock]

Thanks everyone. The majority of my pens have been glued with Poly Glue and only recently have I tried the CA glue for pens. The Thick CA works better than the medium. :) I guess I'll go back to using Poly and only use the CA for gluing up corian to corian! I consider this a lesson learned.

BTW, I have used 2 part Epoxy for my pens with very good success, but, the poly takes the pressure off ME to get the tubes in before the glue sets like with the CA. :rolleyes: :D

I've even glued a few of my blanks to the top of my scrollsaw with CA! :eek:

[Ken Salisbury]

I have said this before - but will repeat it for what it is worth. Generally speaking, the best glue forgluing tubes in wooden blanks is some brand of polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue, Titebond, Elmers, etc). The best glue to use on Corian, Acrylic Accetate and other very dense materials is Gel Super Glue (CA). In both cases rough up the brass tube with 120 grit sand paper. Trying something else just to speed up the process is a sure road to failures.


HASTE MAKES WASTE ! ! !

[Dennis Peacock]

I have said this before - but will repeat it for what it is worth. Generally speaking, the best glue forgluing tubes in wooden blanks is some brand of polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue, Titebond, Elmers, etc). The best glue to use on Corian, Acrylic Accetate and other very dense materials is Gel Super Glue (CA). In both cases rough up the brass tube with 120 grit sand paper. Trying something else just to speed up the process is a sure road to failures.


HASTE MAKES WASTE ! ! !
Now Uncle Ken.!!!!!

Take it easy on me. I have read where folks used CA glue to make pens and I used CA glue for Radio Controlled Airplanes that in kit form cost up to $1,200 to build and I FLEW those planes all the while "trusting" CA to hold all that money together. And it did! So I figured, try and use CA, it's good stuff.

I consider this a lesson learned. Sorry folks, I don't like being wasteful and I will work off the two kits I wasted. :o :o :o :o

Still on my way to the 200 pen mark! :p

[Ken Dolph]

As I have said many times on this forum. CA NEEDS a tight joint, humidity and 24 hours left undestubed, for a complete bond. It is nice to have an adhesive that can have the clamps removed in a few minutes. If you shock it before the bonds have finished linking you will not have the strong bond that you expect. I use CA as my only wood glue. It even glues end grain. I have even butt jointed OSB with it, makihg a joint that is still stronger than the wood after 5 years.

As for the myth that CA crystalizes over time. This only happens if the ambient humidity was too low when the bond was attempted. In that case the CA continues to try to atract moisture thus rotting the joint.

For your pens, which I don't do, I would suggest that you continue to use poly for its gap filling ability. If you can slip the tube in, the joint is not tight enough for a good CA bond. When I cannot have a tight joint between two pieces, I fill the gap with baking soda and use wicking CA. This works very well but I think it would be hard with the pen tubes.

I hope this helps
Ken

[Jim Schmoll]

My vote is for CA med thickness. Mybe 1500 pens and only 4 or 5 tube failures. After putting in the tubes I give give it a shot of axcelarater on each end and let it sit 24 hrs.

Jim from Idallwild CA