Face Jointing question

[C Scott McDonald]

Hey folks,

If you had a 15 inch wide board that has a slight twist and access to a 16" jointer would you try to face joint it?

Looks like a lot to hang on to. It is a single board and I really dont want to cut it in half to face joint it.

Thanks,
Scott

[glenn bradley]

I wouldn't hesitate. That's what that jointer is for. Pick your side with the least teeter-tottering, temper that choice with your best grain orientation for the cut and go for it. On wide boards I generally pick a side that will be the 'control' side. That is; the side I keep held firm to the beds through the cut.

[Rob Will]

No problem, just get some good push blocks and some ear plugs. Take light cuts.
Also, you might consider shimming the low corner(s). That way, you are splitting the difference until you get an adequate flat surface to register against. I face joint boards up to 24" all the time.

Rob

[Mike Cutler]

It really comes down to how much thickness will be lost jointing across the 15" face.

If the final thickness can be achieved by face joining it at 15" wide, and then planing it. No problems.

If the final thickness will be less than desired once it's face joined and planed, then you may have to rip it along the length, and reglue it. Ripping it in half will decrease the amount required to face join by ~1/2 the total of doing it as a single 15" wide board.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I agree with Mike.

You lose less thickness by ripping and gluing flipping every other board in the glue up.

So, it all depends.

[Peter Quinn]

If the Question is would I hesitate to push 15" lumber over a 16" jointer in general for safety reasons, the answer is no. Fire it up and go for it with the same respect and sharp knives you would give any jointer.

I agree with Cliff, who agrees with Mike. A 16" jointer can joint 16", not a problem there, but can your 15" board be flattened for your purpose across its width and over its length at your final thickness?

If not a split/flatten/reglue might be in order. I'd use the BS if this is necessary as you loose less to the kerf and grain changes at the cut line are less conspicuous that way.

[Jason Beam]

I'm with Mike, Cliff and Peter ... EXCEPT i would add: If it's already got a little twist, would ripping it in two release more stress and cause further warping? I dunno ... i doubt anyone can predict from board to board but if this is an important piece I would be leaning more toward not ripping it. Even if that meant adjusting my desired thickness.

That may be a no-go - in which case I'd be looking for an alternate board for the purpose at hand.

[Frank Drew]

If you can keep sufficient thickness, then don't rip the board; if not, then you'll have to rip it, but in the interest of grain continuity I wouldn't flip anything (otherwise, why use a nice, wide board?)

[Jeff Duncan]

I guess I would ask what are you using it for? I mean if you need a piece 15" wide then sure go ahead and face joint it. But if it's going to be cut into faceframe parts or ???, then you will probably be better off milling smaller pieces to retain as much stock as possible.
Once the use has been decided it's much easier to determine the best way to mill it.
JeffD