how would i assemble something like this?

[Leo Zick]

i want to make a table in a similar style, but am not sure how to join the legs to the top.. any suggestions? dowels dont seem like they would be strong enough..
Thanks a ton!


http://cdn.overstock.com/images/products/L10332761.jpg

[Chris Kennedy]

As you look at the back leg on the right, it looks like the aprons surround the legs. If this is the case, I would go mechanical and screw the legs to the aprons and then cover with plugs. As I squint at the front leg on the right, I think I can see a plug (either that or it's something on my monitor).

Other than that, I think you would have to do something fancy behind the apron.

Cheers,

Chris

[Tom Veatch]

i want to make a table in a similar style, but am not sure how to join the legs to the top.. any suggestions? dowels dont seem like they would be strong enough..

The joint between the legs and top doesn't have to be very strong. Virtually all the loading seen at that joint will be vertical bearing between the top panel and the top of the legs. All the side/shear loading that would cause racking of the assembly will be absorbed by the back, sides, and top of the drawer unit. I suspect that you could just set the top on the legs without any connection between the legs and the apron and not notice any weakness in the assembly.

[Leo Zick]

i dont see any aprons across the top :/
just the frame that holds the glass.

i could use a lag bolt, couldnt i?
im guessing in 'modern' construction like this, they screw the crap out of it, then veneer it over. i want to use wenge or walnut, and keep the finish as clean as possible..

[Peter Quinn]

I'd go with dowels, a tenon or a loose tenon at each intersection of leg and top frame. A double tenon would be strong to the point of over kill but might be a fun challenge to produce. That is not a highly stressed joint, most of the weight will bare straight down. Its more of an alignment issue.

Even something as simple as a piece of brass rod epoxied into the top of each leg with a corresponding hole in each corner of the top frame should suffice, though anybody attempting to move the piece by lifting from the top might be in for a surprise.

[Bill Wyko]

The Domino would make that a piece of cake.

[Ron Dunn]

My worry about any joint in the top of that piece would be what happens when someone picks it up by the top. To give it any strength at all, it must (?) be bolted to the legs.

There are a few alternatives that you could investigate:

* 3-way mitre, pretty, but hard to build accurately

* Make the legs slightly longer and proud of the top. Chamfer the ends as a feature. Join the top rails into the side of the legs using your preferred joinery method.

* Mitre the long rail to the leg, then butt the short rail into the mitred joint. A dowel in each side of the mitre would lock it in place. Not as pretty as the 3-way mitre, but much more simple.

I'm sure there are others.

For my taste, I think I'd be looking at the second design option, and making the legs proud of the top by a few mm.

[Cary Swoveland]

...There are a few alternatives that you could investigate:

* 3-way mitre, pretty, but hard to build accurately
...

From a design standpoint, that would be my choice. It requires that all three pieces be square with the same dimension, a condition that could be met in this case. I've never used that joint, but don't see why it should be hard to get right. I believe you just miter each end, turn it 90 degrees and miter it again. The trick, I guess, is in reinforcing the joint. What is the preferred method of reinforcement? Could you use two Dominos or dowels? I'm sure you could use pocket screws, but hiding the holes could be a problem. Splines might be another option.

Cary

[Leo Zick]

My worry about any joint in the top of that piece would be what happens when someone picks it up by the top. To give it any strength at all, it must (?) be bolted to the legs.

* Make the legs slightly longer and proud of the top. Chamfer the ends as a feature. Join the top rails into the side of the legs using your preferred joinery method.


my concern as well, and looking at how ill do this, i think im going with your option two, here. i bought some sapele today on sale at ~$5bf. im going to have to join a lot of the cuts to make some of the thicker shapes like the legs, so extending the legs proud or a blind tenon (is that what it would be called?) are my considerations right now.

[Jim Becker]

Dowels, larger lose tenons or biscuits with glue would be more than strong enough to keep the top on this piece, especially with the cross supports, panels and secondary top between the legs already. That is a very nice design, BTW.

[Ed Peters]

This joint is screaming "MORTISE AND TENNON". Can't you guys hear it?

Ed

[Bill Huber]

I think a nice square mortise and tenon would be good. For a little bit of design you could bring the tenon though the top and put a kind of a squared point on it just a little higher then the top.

[Johnny Kleso]

Looks like a table top to me most...
I think I would use Figuer 8 Washer Mounts

Maybe with a Loose Dowel

[Roy Harding]

This joint is screaming "MORTISE AND TENNON". Can't you guys hear it?

Ed

What Ed said.

Any type of mortise and tenon would suffice - including Domino, dowels, lose tenons, or any other other variation you might want to employ.

[Ron Dunn]

Ed and Roy, if you're suggesting a tenon on the leg rising into a mortice on the top, don't you worry that someone might pick up a loaded unit by the top and drag it off the tenon?

[Steve Flavin001]

jig - ideal for this. I made the Wood magazine three stacking tables identical in concept, using it. Can also use screw in top covered by wood plug re lifting concerns expressed.:o

[Scott Rollins]

I like Rons 2nd idea with a twist. Mortise and tenon the aprons to the legs as with any table. Then veneer a mitered frame to the top to create the rabbet for the glass top and cover the end grain. Flush trim with a router on the outside and done.