Bandsaw choices (another, I'm sorry)

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm in the market for a 14" Bandsaw. Originally I had narrowed my choices to the Powermatic 14" or the Grizzly 14" G0555X and hadn't considered the Rikon 10-325 saw due to a higher price. Now with the price increases experienced at Powermatic/WMH and Grizzly/freight-shipping the Rikon could be back in the mix.

My primary use for the saw will be to overcome the short blade height of my table saw (~2" with a 8 1/2" blade, the arbor pulley hits a rib under the TS top). The secondary use will be actual resawing, I suspect in the 6-8" range.

I'd like to be able to use a 3/4" blade to help minimize drift (been told that helps). But it's also been said that the two piece frame especially with a riser block, lacks the strength to properly tension a 3/4" blade. Is that true?

Because the Rikon 10-325 is a tubular/one-piece frame, is it strong enough to tension the 3/4" blades?

Thanks for the input.

[brett gallmeyer]

I have the grizzly G0555 with a riser block. I have a timberwolf 3/4'' resaw blade that I have used to resaw up to 8'' stock so far. No problems with tensioning. In fact I have absolutly no blade drift even with 3/4 blades. I use my whole fence for resawing.

Brett G.

P.S. If u end up going with the Grizzly, I have an extra extension block kit. It's never been installed. I accidently bought two when I bought my saw. I would sell it for less than grizzly does. PM me if your interested.

[Stephen Edwards]

I have the G0555X with riser block and 3/4 " 3TPI Timberwolf blade. I have resawn 12" mahogony and 8" purple heart with absolutely no drift whatsoever. I get consistent slices of whatever width I want.

I've read many BS posts dealing with blade drift. Fortunately, with my saw, I've never encountered blade drift at all. I'll be glad to provide pics of the saw in action and show you photos of the ripped boards if that would be any help to you.

Good luck with your decision.

[Benjamin Dahl]

I have that Rikon and am pleased. 3/4" is the largest blade that is supports (I think). I have a 3/4" wood slicer that works fine. If you have questions I found their customer service people to be excellent. Here is their contact # 877-884-5167.
-Ben

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Anthony,

I don't have either saw so I can't comment about those.

When purchasing a tool I consider the following if prices are similar.

1. I consider which tool has the better reputation.

2. Which tool has the capabilities I want.

3. Which tool has extra capabilities or accessories and are they included in the original price of the tool?

4. Which manufacturer has the best customer service reputation.

Good luck with your decision!

[Anthony Whitesell]

That's exactly what I did Ken. That's why Delta, Jet and some others have been ruled out. Some for lower quality or lesser customer service, but most dropped out on pricing. To get an apples to apples comparison on the pricing, I took each saw and found what the accessories would cost to make it equal to the saw with the most accessories (Powermatic/Grizzly). When I had finished, I found that all the saws are within about $100 once at my shop; ie., including shipping the accessories or the saw (Grizzly). The big difference then becomes, do I want to have to procure, attach, and setup each of the accessories; or would it be better if was part of the saw and the factory attached it. I chose the latter and the Delta, Jet, and other fell by the wayside.

So with that said, I'm down to the Powermatic, Grizzly, and Rikon.

I wish I could find someone that has or has used two or three of my options to get a more unbiased opinion. I tried asking at the retailers "Why should I buy a PM over the Grizzly?" and never got a clear/non-salesman answer. Of course, they want to sell me what they have on their sales floor.

[Tom Esh]

I'm in the market for a 14" Bandsaw. Originally I had narrowed my choices to the Powermatic 14" or the Grizzly 14" G0555X and hadn't considered the Rikon 10-325 saw due to a higher price. Now with the price increases experienced at Powermatic/WMH and Grizzly/freight-shipping the Rikon could be back in the mix.

My primary use for the saw will be to overcome the short blade height of my table saw (~2" with a 8 1/2" blade, the arbor pulley hits a rib under the TS top). The secondary use will be actual resawing, I suspect in the 6-8" range.

I'd like to be able to use a 3/4" blade to help minimize drift (been told that helps). But it's also been said that the two piece frame especially with a riser block, lacks the strength to properly tension a 3/4" blade. Is that true?

Because the Rikon 10-325 is a tubular/one-piece frame, is it strong enough to tension the 3/4" blades?

Thanks for the input.

Actually I believe the Rikon 10-325 has a reinforced welded steel frame and comparison-wise it's probably a closer match to the Grizzly 457 than the 555. I bought the Griz primarily because I'm close enough to pick up and avoid the freight charge. Were that not the case the Rikon's few extra refinements (light, tension and track windows, etc) would have made the choice more difficult. It's 1.5 hp is less than the Grizzly's 2.0, but I don't see that as an issue unless you're doing a lot of heavy resawing. The Griz tensions a 3/4 Timberwolf no problem, and I suspect the Rikon would as well. What I would not want to try is a lesser (OEM) 3/4 blade on either. In fact I'd suggest ordering some good blades well before your saw arrives. That way you can toss the one that comes with it in the trash immediately (which is where it's going to end up anyway - as soon as you run a good blade.:)) FWIW I've found a 1/2 TW resaws just as nicely on my 457 as a 3/4.

[Wade Lippman]

A bigger saw isn't that much more expensive and doesn't take up any more room.

But gosh, cutting with a 3hp motor is soooo much nice than than with 1hp motor. Serious, I had to change the blade on my 1hp delta frequently because when the blade got the least bit dull cutting was torture. I expect my 3hp Grizzly blade is pretty dull after a year, but I just cut 10" of black locust effortlessly.

Go big; a lot cheaper than having to replace it in a couple years.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Hi Tom and Wade,

After looking at the Rikon a second time, I checked the 16" saws (which I recalled had a similiar frame design to the Rikon) and quickly remembered why I had to rule them out...No 220V available.

Being that I would only be an hour from Grizzly in the next week or two, I was tempted to drive over and pick one up in Muncy. But I would have to pay sales tax which is about as costly as having it shipped. Plus if I have it shipped I'll save about 12mpg by driving the car down instead of the truck.

[Pat Germain]

What's nice about a Rikon is you can go to local dealer and lay hands on it. But I see you can do the same with a Grizzly.

Many of the Rikon bandsaws were being returned to my local Woodcraft store for switch problems. I expect Rikon has worked this problem out, but you might want to poke around a bit and be sure.

And, just to be sure, you can't add a 220V outlet to your shop? Adding 220V opens up a whole new world or power tools. :cool: I installed a 220V outlet in my shop which allowed me to go with a Grizzly 17" BS for not much more than a 14".

[Brandon Shew]

Sounds like you want a new saw. You could go used and get what you want for less.

That aside, both Griz 14" saws got high marks in the FWW test last year.

[Curt Harms]

Actually I believe the Rikon 10-325 has a reinforced welded steel frame and comparison-wise it's probably a closer match to the Grizzly 457 than the 555. I bought the Griz primarily because I'm close enough to pick up and avoid the freight charge. Were that not the case the Rikon's few extra refinements (light, tension and track windows, etc) would have made the choice more difficult. It's 1.5 hp is less than the Grizzly's 2.0, but I don't see that as an issue unless you're doing a lot of heavy resawing. The Griz tensions a 3/4 Timberwolf no problem, and I suspect the Rikon would as well. What I would not want to try is a lesser (OEM) 3/4 blade on either. In fact I'd suggest ordering some good blades well before your saw arrives. That way you can toss the one that comes with it in the trash immediately (which is where it's going to end up anyway - as soon as you run a good blade.:)) FWIW I've found a 1/2 TW resaws just as nicely on my 457 as a 3/4.

I'd agree that a 1/2" blade resaws as well as a 3/4" on a 14" saw. My Rikon came with a serviceable 5/8" blade on it. Not great, but serviceable. I've resawed 10" white oak with a good blade on the 14" Rikon no problem powerwise.

HTH

Curt

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have a 100 amp box with one 110 breaker slot available. It's already taken two re-wirings to get what I have in the shop powered up. I have a basement shop and it's a shared space. Between the laundry, crafts, WW shop, and repair shop (ie., a place to fix greasy messy stuff that you don't want near your WWing projects); so space and electrical are at a premium.

[Mike Cutler]

I'd like to be able to use a 3/4" blade to help minimize drift (been told that helps). But it's also been said that the two piece frame especially with a riser block, lacks the strength to properly tension a 3/4" blade. Is that true?


Thanks for the input.

Anthony

While the width of the blade has an impact on the stability of the blade during the cutting process.The more important consideration is the quality of the blade, proper selection for appointed task, set and style of the tooth configuration, and the tuning of the machine.

A 3/8 or 1/2" blade can be just as effective as a wider blade. I know of one creeker that uses a 2-3 tooth 3/8" blade on a 36" Yates bandsaw for resawing. This bandsaw would have no problems tensioning just about any blade, but he uses a 3/8".

Point being, don't let one single factor, (in this case, tensioning a 3/4" blade) have so much weight in your decision.

In resawing applications, bigger is better. This doesn't mean that a 14" bandsaw can't resaw, I have a Jet 14" that can resaw veneer pretty well, but my 18" Rikon is lot better at it. If resawing and ripping/cross cutting thick stock to compliment your tablesaw is the intended primary function, you may mant to set your sights a little higher, or bigger, in this case.

The three machines you have listed are fine machines. Any of them could be set up to be fine resawing bandsaws.

Don't get too hung up on the 3/4" blade thing.;)

[Al Willits]

""""""""
I'd agree that a 1/2" blade resaws as well as a 3/4" on a 14" saw. My Rikon came with a serviceable 5/8" blade on it. Not great, but serviceable. I've resawed 10" white oak with a good blade on the 14" Rikon no problem powerwise.
"""""""""""

That's been my limited exprience also, I used the Timberwolf 3/4" blade and although my underpowered delta would cut with it reasonably well, I got the urge to try a Lennox blade, I sent a email to them and they reponded telling me for a 14" saw and especially mine a sharp 1/2" blade will work quite well, as well as the 3/4" blade and not near the tensioning required.

On my third 1/2" blade and they've worked as well for me as the 3/4" I had used previously.

Just a thought.

Of all the power tools I've bought, this was the worst mistake, had I to do over again, I'd gotten a 16 or 17" saw.
But I do a lot of resawing.

At least it sounds like your getting a 14" with some power to it, good luck :)

Al

[John Eaton]

I own the 555 w/riser block and have had no issues with drift (at all) and have used a 3 tpi 3/4" timberwolf blade for resawing - most recently 10" wide purpleheart and it was fairly efforless. I would consider purchasing it again if in the market.

I almost pulled the trigger on an old 20" Delta to setup for resawing only - I just couldn't justify the amount of space it needed. The 555 is light enough that it can be rolled out of the way and back again when used. The heavier saws are a bit more to manage (the 20" I was looking at probably weighed 500 lbs or so - lotta cast iron). Just something to consider.

-- John