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brett gallmeyer
07-01-2008, 5:31 PM
I am looking for makers of plane irons. Specificly ''krenov syle wood plane'' irons, shoulder plane irons, and router plane irons.

Now I know the obvious choices of hock, LN, and LV.
However I am looking for individuals or small shops that make irons. Or even anyone that has some for sale or knows someone who makes / sales them. I am trying to find some good deals on quality irons. I am starting to build some of my own tools and I am far from ready to try heat treating.

Thanks, Brett G.

Johnny Kleso
07-01-2008, 6:37 PM
Contact Ron Brese,
For standard irons its best to just buy an old smoother off eBay..

I have several I plan to re-sole..
Just make sure if you plan to buy and re-sole them they have not cracks front or back..

PS:
I few years back someone said the Import planes LV sells are worth buying just for the blades...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=46334&cat=1,41182

Looks like they sell replacement blades :)

Brian Kent
07-01-2008, 6:54 PM
PS:
I few years back someone said the Import planes LV sells are worth buying just for the blades...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=46334&cat=1,41182

Looks like they sell replacement blades :)

I have made several planes using these blades. They need a very accurate wedge. They are useable, but will take more care than a thicker iron or one with a cap.

brett gallmeyer
07-01-2008, 7:18 PM
I appreciate the info but i'm really looking for sources other than hock, lv, and ln. I know that great irons are available from them. I've seen some older threads from people that make there own. and a fe said they would be selling some since its cheaper to make multiples at once.

Thanks for the info about the lv. i will have to check those out.

Brett G.

Kevin Brenton
07-01-2008, 7:43 PM
There is a fellow here in Australia that makes plane irons .

Academy Saw Works owned by Paul Williams his plane irons are reputed to be the best, well known here , but probably little heard of in the US.
They are available through HNT Gordon.
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/paulwilliams.htm

The list shown has replacement blades for Stanley planes ,but I'm very sure other blades are available for the style of plane you are referring to .

Brent beach has also done some testing of the Academy blades
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/bladetest.html
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/ASW%20HSS2.html

Kevin.

Leigh Betsch
07-01-2008, 8:08 PM
Brett, I might be able to help you out. Sent you a PM.

Stephen Shepherd
07-01-2008, 8:30 PM
Brett,

Give Chris Sholtz irons a try, they are as far as I know the only laminated blades on the market. I have one that I treasure, a quality blade.

Galoot-Tools (http://galoot-tools.com)

Stephen

Helmut Burri
07-01-2008, 9:30 PM
Hello Brett

If you are looking for sources for blades other then the major commercial sellers, then you might be interested in what I am some blokes have been up to in OZ.

About a year ago I posted a thread on the U-beaut Woodworking Forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com) were I have been a long time member, inquiring as to how feasible making plane irons would be.

We were fortunate to have access to a Metallurgist and a College Professor in Physics (both members of the forum), who contributed their knowledge. We wanted blades that were world class, blades that are able to resist the abrasive nature of dense and beautiful Australian exotic timbers, and blades that would have the mass to give wooden planes the inertia to perform in difficult planing operations.

After much discussion we settled on purchasing D2 from a Bohler-Uddeholm (A European based Multinational Steel Merchant with over 600 years of experince) and having it professionally heat treated and ground.

D2 is a dimensionally stable high carbon, high chromium and molybdenum steel delivering excellent toughness and abrasion resistance with unrivaled edge retention and with less need for frequent sharpening, and with almost stainless steel levels of rust resistance. That has found favour with likes of Philip Marcou of Marcou Planes (http://marcouplanes.co.nz/), Gramercy, and Ashley Iles Mortising Chisels (http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/cSchwarz/z_art/mortChisel/mortChis1.asp).

We initially undertook a trial run (batch 01) of 20 blades at 100 x 8 x 50 mm. After receiving there blades the blades were tested by our college professor and had an Rc rating of 60 - 62. Reviews by members have been more then favorable comparing our D2 blades with the likes of PAUL WILLIAMS - ACADEMY SAWS M2 HSS IRONS. (http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/ASW%20HSS2.html) Which cost almost 2 -3 times the cost of our blades.

Batch 01 was so successful and popular we undertook a batch 02, again using D2 from Bohler-Uddeholm. This batch consisted of over 90 blades or 11 meters of steel. In addition we offered a larger range of blades the likes of no commercial manufacturer offers today.


50 x 40 x 4 mm
100 x 40 x 4 mm
150 x 40 x 4 mm

50 x 8 x 100 mm
50 x 8 x 150 mm
50 x 8 x 200 mm

60 x 8 x 100 mm
60 x 8 x 150 mm
60 x 8 x 200 mm

80 x 8 x 100 mm
80 x 8 x 150 mm
80 x 8 x 200 mm


We also allowed members to order custom blades, in all sorts of configurations one example is a 60 mm x 8 x 300 mm blade destined for a giant classical styles European tote and knob Skew plane.

You can read about batch 01 here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=60209) and batch 02 can read about here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=61147)

Here are some photos of batch 01 and 02 blades during production, as finished blades, and some samples of planes the blokes have made with our D2 blades.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62649
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62651
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62652"

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65192&d=1200751129
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65191&d=1200751129
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65190&d=1200751129
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65189&d=1200751129

Lots more photos and information can be found in the batch 01 (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=60209&page=6) and batch 02 (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=61147) threads.

Here is a small FAQ on the D2 blades:

So how does blade thickness effect the plane performance?

The trend today amongst modern tool makers is to use blades from 6 - 8 mm in thickness. This greatly increase the mass of the blade, making it less prone to flexing and chattering giving a better planed finish in comparison to traditionally thinner blades. In addition thicker blades add inertia to smaller or wooden planes, thus reducing the amount of force required to maintain the plane in motion.

Why don't your blades have a chip breaker?

Contrary to what the name may imply chip breaker's do not break or clear chips. Rather chip breaker's serve as a means to add stiffness to thin irons like those found in a Stanley Bailey planes therefore reducing the flex of the blade under planing load. Later chip breaker became the means to provided a way to adjust the blade using a mechanical adjuster. Our blades were designed specifically for the finely-tuned handmade wooden plane and due to their substantial thickness and mass allow our blades do away with the need for capricious chip breakers. Japanese and Block planes not have chip breakers and they work wonderfully

What about Sharpening?

Every one of our blades comes ready to use, however with light additional honing, further performance can be achieved. By adding a 0.25 mm micro bevel, and by using using a fine micron diamond paste, or a blade honing compound, or a 8000 plus grit diamond stone, a razor sharp edge can be achieved in only minutes. We recommends that you maintain the hollow grind on the primary bevel, as doing so significantly reduced the time it takes to sharpen.

Derek Cohen
07-02-2008, 9:02 AM
Good blades for Krenov-style planes?

Well the traditional one is from Hock. That is what Jim Krenov uses. 3/16" thick. Use with or without a cap iron.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Krenovshavings1.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/KrenovHock.jpg

Also consider getting one from Terry Gordon (HNT Gordon planes) in either HCS or HSS. These are 1/4" thick and 2" wide. Fantastic blades!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Articles/HNT%20Gordon/HNTGordonhollowgrind1.jpg

I recently tried out a Chinese laminated Galoot Tools blade in one of my HNT Gordon planes. Again fantastic. I did the near unthinkable and hollow ground it on my Tormek. It took a freehand microbevel in mere seconds and held the edge for a long time on hard Jarrah.

Another blade to consider is the 2" wide and 1/8" thick blade for the LV LA Smoother. Or go for the 3/16" thick version for the larger BU LV planes.

Hi Helmut! Welcome to the forum.

I, too, have one of the 8mm thick D2 blades. Not yet made a plane for it - too many projects still - but I plan a serious Jack. Blades of this thickness are total overkill, but fun (if you are a masochist and enjoy grinding and sharpening :) ). It is really quite unnecessary to go thicker than 1/8". Anything over this is unlikely to be a significant enhancer of planing performance. Even 3/16" is driven by buyers rather than sellers.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Sharpening/D2blade1.jpg

I have not had a chance to use my Brese blade yet (soon), but if it is as good as Ron's metalwork ...

Router plane irons?

Get a set from Lee Valley, or St James Bay ... or make your own from a Hex key. They all work well.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/OldWoman'sTooth_html_m7df8f2cf.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/OldWoman'sTooth_html_m79df67a0.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Helmut Burri
07-02-2008, 10:00 AM
The parameters set by the Brett was "individuals or small shops that make irons". Batch 01 and Batch 02 shows what can be achieved a group of people based around a common objective. While some may question the type of steel and the size of the blades, an overwhelming majority of very knowledge people contributed to this highly successful and popular endeavor, by putting there money were there mouths were. In future batches (a new list has already started), I intend to add the option of 6 mm blades and a larger range of 4 mm blades, in addition to offering O1 and A2 blades.

I look back and I am astounded how a simple and seemingly innocent question by myself has led me and others to achieve what seemed initially an impossibility.

To Quote Wayne Anderson "I found that making irons is not rocket science, you just need to know how to dial the telephone to find a good heat treater." While this oversimplifies the issue it is not far from the truth.

Brett your an "individual" pick up the phone and find yourself a good heat treater, its not rocket science. ;) The hard part is the research I lost count of how many people I called how many quotes I got how many recommendations I chased down, we got lucky, we found a good combination in terms of a Steel Mill, Grinding and Milling Service and a world Class heat treatment service.

Big Commercial Shops always try to makes everything sounds out of reach and far to complex for us lesser mortals to grasp, that is how they justify the markup. However if you look past the sales pitch there is little that cannot be achieved by a little hard work and research. Even Lie-Nielsen was a man on a farm house, Hock, Anderson, Holtey, Sauer & Steiner, and a dozen other names all started out the same way, one person, a stupid questions, an insane idea, or the mother of invention. The rest is about separating the boys from the men.

Matt Zettl
07-02-2008, 7:25 PM
David Finck has some excellent blades for Krenov style planes. You may have seen his recent article in FWW on plane making, and he has also written a book on it. His blades are A2 steel, and I can personally attest to their quality.

http://www.davidfinck.com/mainmenu.html

-Matt