Benchtop Drillpress table

[brett gallmeyer]

I built this Benchtop drill press table to serve multiple purposes. The main part is 2x4 with pegboard sides. It has an MDF top with poplar trim. One full extension drawer for bits and such and one door that holds bigger items. I mounted my press so that I can loosen one screw and swing it to the back side of the table so I can drill into longer stock. I also left a cutout on the back pannel so i could clamp pieces to it.
What do you think?

Brett G.

[Travis Rassat]

That's a great unit you built, Brett - I really like it. When I was shopping for a drill press, I had originally planned on just getting a floor model, but my dad talked me into buying a benchtop just because the space below it can be used, just like you did. I'm glad I did.

I actually just built something similar myself. Here is a picture I had posted previously:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=91318&d=1214331416

I wanted mine to look like a roll-away tool box, so it's made of MDF with an internal frame made of 2x4s planed to exactly 1"x3". I painted it using Rustoleum hammered silver, figuring it would be a good finish for hiding knicks and bumps from both wood and metalwork. It is the first of a series of matching cabinets I'm building for my shop, and I'm working on a planer stand right now.

[John Schreiber]

That looks nice. I've been planning one of those for a while. My benchtop drill press weighs about 150 lbs and I worry about the rolling cabinet tipping. How stable does yours feel?

[Travis Rassat]

That looks nice. I've been planning one of those for a while. My benchtop drill press weighs about 150 lbs and I worry about the rolling cabinet tipping. How stable does yours feel?

My drillpress also weighs around 150 lbs, and I'm very comfortable with the stability of my stand. I did a few things to help stability:

1. The base of the cabinet is 24" wide and 26" deep, and the casters are mounted as close to the corners as possible.

2. I used 3/4" MDF for the sides, back, drawer fronts, and drawer sides. The whole unit ends up being fairly heavy, which helps the stability. I think the most important part was to have the heavy back, since the drill press is oriented towards the front of the stand.

3. The top of the stand measure 34 7/8" high to match my table saw and other benches, but to get the table to a comfortable working height, I dropped the DP 2 1/2" into the table, which also helps lower the center of gravity. The top drawer in the picture actually is just a false front - the handle just gives me something to grab for moving purposes. I used that area to really beef up the support to handle the weight of the drill press - I've got 2 crossmembers supporting the press made up of (3) 2x4s glued and screwed together.

4. The drill press is bolted down, and I also used quite a few steel angle brackets to help strengthen joints and keep it from swaying and to keep everything square.

Even with the bigger drill press table, I think it works out well. If anything, it might even be a bit of overkill. On the other hand, I haven't had to drill anything so far that's weighed more than 10-20 pounds and is more than about 5 feet long, either.

[brett gallmeyer]

Im not going to lie. when I first mounted the drill press down it was a bit unstable. but i really wanted to keep it as far back as i could so i could flip the drill around and boar into the ends of boards up to 5' long. the motor actually hangs over the back of the cabinet in normal use. the mobile unit i made is fairly light weight. however, i did put the casters out as far as i could, and with all my bits in the drawer along with whatever jigs i have below it is plenty stable. i just make sure i push and pull from the base of the stand. if u were overly conserned you could allways extend the back two corners back and leave a ''cutout'' so u could still bore into the ends of long vertical stock. If u want some help with this idea i could draw something up tonight and post it.

On a sidenote, hopefully I will complete my drill press table and fence tonight. if not ill try and post prodject pics.

Please ask away if u have any questions.
Brett G.

[Travis Rassat]

if u were overly conserned you could allways extend the back two corners back and leave a ''cutout'' so u could still bore into the ends of long vertical stock. If u want some help with this idea i could draw something up tonight and post it.


That's a good idea, Brett - out of curiosity, what are the overall dimensions of your stand?

[brett gallmeyer]

travis, the aprox dimensions are 20" wide x 18" deep x 34" tall and the top table extends out so its 24" wide that way i have an overhang if i ever want to clamp something to the side for support. just in case. Also the back is a bit disseving. once you pull the drawer out a bit you can clamp between the "top" and the bottom of the 2x4. the top sits flush with the back.