Cutting a underbevel on a large tabletop

[Jeff Monson]

Just finishing a coffee table and I want to put a underbevel cut on the top. The demensions are 25 x 40 inches and I am not comfortable making this cut on my tablesaw, so is there an easier way to accomplish this cut??

[Eric DeSilva]

How thick is the top? Is the degree of the underbevel such that you could get a bit that would follow the side and cut the bevel you want? You might have to do several passes.

Other alternative off the top of my head might be a good circular saw on a guide rail. I'd trust my TS55 and guide to do something like that.

[Joe Scharle]

I use a part of a panel raising bit to get that effect.

[Brian Peters]

I would use a shaper or router table. If you don't have either use a router (are you going to zero point edge or leaving a flat for the bearing to ride on?) If on the table saw you could do it too, why aren't you comfortable doing it? You could take it in two passes, one to take the meat and one to skim it clean. A bit of sanding but the best bet if no shaper/router table.

[Jeff Monson]

The top is 3/4 maple.


I do have a router table, I'm not quite sure on the panel raising bit, do you just move the fence to only use the bevel part of the cutter???

[Ron Dunn]

What angle of bevel do you want? A solution might be a 45-degree router bit with a bottom guide bearing. I'm sure other angles are available as chamfering bits.

More than 45-degrees and I think the width of the bit might get too big for a hand-held router, and it would be back to the table.

[Peter Quinn]

Not sure I'd want to stand a top that big on edge to cut the end grain on a TS either. If you do you'll need a tall fence, a TS raised panel jig, and possibly an assistant.

I have used an off set base with a 3 1/2HP router and a panel raiser, in your case perhaps a shaker style panel bit, to form under cuts and ogee's on table top bottom edges.

My offset base is shop made. Its kind of like a mini router table turned up side down. Its two pieces of 3/4" birch plywood, one piece 7"X20", one piece 7"X15", screwed and glued together, with a handle on the side opposite the router. The router sits on the 5" overhang of the longer piece, the second ply stiffens the whole affair considerably, the handle adds control. You have to take a series of light passes by adjusting your depth of cut, and a sharp bit is critical here for safety. It sounds and looks far more frightening than it is. I find a solid stance and a firm grip helps also.

Grandpa always said move the lightest object. If the wood is heavier than the tool, then bring the tool to the work. I have use this same technique for large countertops which simply cannot be pushed through a shaper, saw or router table.

[Dick Bringhurst]

There is a table edge router bit made by amana. Don't know the number. Should be able to find it on their web site. Dick B.

[Jeff Monson]

I'm not quite sure on the angle maybe 30 degrees?? I would like to leave about 1/4" square edge and bevel back about an inch or so, it will be removing quite a bit of material.

[Jim Becker]

For smaller table tops, I've often used a "partial" cut from my straight panel raiser cutter on the router table, but I'd probably use a hand plane on a larger table top. (May do that the next time on the smaller table tops, too.

[David DeCristoforo]

I completely agree with Peter Quinn (and his grandpa as well) on this one. But I also agree with Jim that a good sharp hand plane might be the "best" method. If I were making one table I would go with Peter's suggestion or with Jim's But if I were doing multiples, I would set up a large shaper and feeder. But, of course, you would have to have a large shaper and feeder....

PS Trying this on a table saw with the table top on edge? Uhhh...um...well...er...ah... Better get out the hand plane....

[Russell Tribby]

Not sure I'd want to stand a top that big on edge to cut the end grain on a TS either. If you do you'll need a tall fence, a TS raised panel jig, and possibly an assistant.

I have used an off set base with a 3 1/2HP router and a panel raiser, in your case perhaps a shaker style panel bit, to form under cuts and ogee's on table top bottom edges.

My offset base is shop made. Its kind of like a mini router table turned up side down. Its two pieces of 3/4" birch plywood, one piece 7"X20", one piece 7"X15", screwed and glued together, with a handle on the side opposite the router. The router sits on the 5" overhang of the longer piece, the second ply stiffens the whole affair considerably, the handle adds control. You have to take a series of light passes by adjusting your depth of cut, and a sharp bit is critical here for safety. It sounds and looks far more frightening than it is. I find a solid stance and a firm grip helps also.

Grandpa always said move the lightest object. If the wood is heavier than the tool, then bring the tool to the work. I have use this same technique for large countertops which simply cannot be pushed through a shaper, saw or router table.


Peter, would you mind posting some pics of your base?