The nearly free 'tableless' cutting table

[Darren Null]

Just rare earth magnets glued to bits of marble. The magnets were very cheap from ebay, the marble was free, and it'll hold 3mm plywood flat.

I've got some magnets left over, so I'm going to do a couple of long pieces studded with magnets at regular intervals to hold tricky edges flat.

Variation on a theme by George M. Perzel in this thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=85345&highlight=ultimate+cutting+table

[Marc Myer]

Great idea, especially with that lovely veneer!
Now, as to your laser: There's no cabinet? And are those wood slats for the table? Most interesting.
And I see why you live in Spain: you're right next to the ocean. I'd guess many Creekers are planning a visit to 'check out your setup' before the winter is over.

[Darren Null]

Actually with the crinkly veneer, it's not so good...a vacuum table would be much better. I have to soak the veneer a bit, then iron it, then leave it to dry between a couple of sheets of marble for a few days before use.
But it is really good at dealing with bowed materials...you just add enough blocks in the middle that the weight of the marble and the combined magnetism forces your material straight.

The photo was taken outside where I'd glued the magnets on. For some reason, my wife always sends me outside when anything to do with glue, paint, varnish, welding, or power tools is involved. Can't imagine why.

No setup checks planned, but it is pretty nice here:

[Steven Wallace]

Show off:). One of those Kodak moments we all have heard about. I think it is envy...

[Bill Cunningham]

Actually with the crinkly veneer, it's not so good...a vacuum table would be much better. I have to soak the veneer a bit, then iron it, then leave it to dry between a couple of sheets of marble for a few days before use.
But it is really good at dealing with bowed materials...you just add enough blocks in the middle that the weight of the marble and the combined magnetism forces your material straight.

The photo was taken outside where I'd glued the magnets on. For some reason, my wife always sends me outside when anything to do with glue, paint, varnish, welding, or power tools is involved. Can't imagine why.

No setup checks planned, but it is pretty nice here:

Whats that in the picture? Nine guys with funny haircuts watching a sunrise/set? :D

[Paul Woodrich]

For inlay work you can flatten the veneer (even heavy burl with lots of figure). Mix four parts water, two parts glycerine, one part alcohol, and two parts plastic-resin glue. Mix thoroughly and apply to both sides of the veneer. Saturate the veneers with the mixture. This solution softens the fibers and allows them to flex, while the glue retains the shape it dries in. That is important as the veneer needs to be held flat while drying.

An easy way to do this is to use two flat pieces of plywood and a series of "C" clamps. Cover the veneer on both sides with fiberglass window screen and place some newspaper between the fiberglass and the plywood. Your sandwich is: plywood, newspaper, screen, veneer, screen, newspaper; repeated for as many veneers as you are flattening, ending with the opposing plywood. Then clamp the sandwich together. Change the newspapers twice a day. If conditions cooperate the veneer will dry within a day or two. Once dry, the veneers will be dead-flat and will stay flat. A note of caution: the embedded glue inhibits stain absorption, so only use this technique with pieces that don't have stain in their future.

The "now flat" veneers cut great and the additional strength of the glue makes them crack resistant and supple. Even the most intricate pieces remain dimensionally stable.

[Darren Null]

Thanks for the veneer flattening tips. I might well try your recipe.