Inlay in hardwood tables

[Geoff Siemering]

I'm building a large round walnut dining room table. I am thinking that an inlay about 3" from the outer table edge would look nice.

Since this is a solid wood table, it will, of course, move. To avoid problems with the inlay being popped out, should I use shorter pieces of inlay to limit the amount of movement a single piece of inlay.

Also would a more flexible glue (i.e. yellow wood glue) or a hard glue line (i.e. urea formaldehye) work better

[Jim Izat]

Geoff,

What sort of an inlay are you thinking about (species, thickness and width)? All these factors should be a consideration for how you'll put it in and secure it.

Jim Izat

[Howard Acheson]

Geoff, I don't see how you can do this. Solid walnut will expand/contract 3/16" for every foot of width. Your inlay will be creating a cross grain situation for almost all of the circle of the table.

Inlays are normally done on veneered panels constructed of composition substrates.

[Geoff Siemering]

I was thinking of using wenge 0.25" wide, 1/8" thick.

I have been wrestling with this dilema as well. I would like to add something to the table to give it a little more style than just an all one wood table. Maybe I should put this over in the design forum.

I know I can add wenge tips to the end of the tapered legs. Adding a little splash of color elsewhere would be great though.

Not that the table would be unattractive in any case. It is 52" in diameter when closed, but then opens to 118" long with three 22" leaves. It is a commission since I certainly don't have a house big enough for this kind of monster.