Drilling for Euro hinges?

[John Miliunas]

I'm planning on using Euro-style hinges for the bathroom door cabinets. I figure for the smaller ones, I could get them clamped up on my DP table for accuracy and correct depth, but there are a couple which would be awkard, at best, to try to get up there. So, how in the heck does everyone else out there bore the 35mm holes accurately AND, to proper depth when one can't get it up on the DP table? :confused: :cool:

[Mark Singer]

John,
I finally know the answer to one of your questions. There are jigs you can buy that allow you to drill the doors with a portable drill quite accurately! I have an inexpensive Rockler....There are better jigs around. It just clamps on the door witrh toggle clamps and a stop colllar sets the depth...it is fun! and fast!
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5878

[John Miliunas]

Thanks Mark! I've seen this rig in the catalog before, but often wondered how effective it is. But, that leads in to another question: Are you bound to just using *their* (Rockler) bits or is it a universal fit of some sort? For instance, in trying to prepare for this job (and subsequent others), I opted to go with the advice of others here at SMC and "buy the best" when the need comes up for specific-use peripherals. Hence, I picked up a "Bormax" 35mm drill. NOT cheap, but I've already used it to easily bore through 2" acrylic! At any rate, that would be my preferred bit to use with this system. Besides, I see the "special" bit from Rockler is way back-ordered! :cool:

[Mark Singer]

any bit should work...I did bore their hole a bit larger though

[John Miliunas]

Muchos gracias, my friend! I think I may just go ahead and order one of them bad boys! With as much stuff as I have on my plate right now, it sure looks as though it would be a great time-saver! (Also help to "idiot-proof" it a bit! :rolleyes: ) After the bathroom project is done, I still have a whole kitchen of cabinet doors to do, so I think it would be worth it. Thanks again! :cool:

[Kevin Brown]

Hi John

I haven't personally used this jig before, but have watched a little old amish man use it with his air drill :)

http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15684

[John Miliunas]

Hey Kevin, thanks for the suggestion! Looks to be a formidable jig. Two problems, though: 1) I'm not Amish. :D 2) I'm also kind of cheap! Well, not really, but I'm staring at a lot of household and family expenses in the next few months, so I need to keep tool expenses somewhat restricted. Looks to be a nice unit, though! :cool:

[Tom Peterson]

John,
I had one hole to drill, and i wrapped masking tape around the body of the mortisner bit and i worked. most others I used the drill press with a stop. not sure how deep you have to go so it may not work

[markus shaffer]

John,

I always use the drill press for cup hinges.. If you have big doors, first clamp a big piece of plywood to your drill press table to support the doors. Then, take a small piece of scrap wood,(same thickness as your doors) and drill it. If your hinges don't come with a paper template, you'll have to experiment some to find the correct distance from the edge. Set up a fence along the backside of the plywood on the table. Once you have it set, it's good for all the hinges. From there, you can determine the depth with your scrap piece. Also, after you have your scrap piece drilled correctly, hang onto it. That piece will always be good for the same hinges. So next time you need to set up for it, chuck the right bit, drop it into the hole and lock it down. Then butt a fence up against it clamp it down and you're set. Hopefully the photos below will help explain this system I have. By the way, I bought one of those drill jigs for use with a hand drill, I didn't like it one bit. 1 1/4" forstner bit is not suppossed to be in a hand drill..

[Dale Thompson]

Hey Kevin, thanks for the suggestion! Looks to be a formidable jig. Two problems, though: 1) I'm not Amish. :D 2) I'm also kind of cheap! Well, not really, but I'm staring at a lot of household and family expenses in the next few months, so I need to keep tool expenses somewhat restricted. Looks to be a nice unit, though! :cool:

Hey Spring,
I think that you have been nursing this "new bathroom - new kitchen" thing long enough! :rolleyes: How long does in take a Cheesehead to cut a second hole in the outhouse "bench" and nail down a couple of 2x4s to make more room for the Coleman camp stove?? Suggestion; Give the contract to your daughter and get the job DONE. From what I've seen, she won't make excuses and she knows how to use both the tools AND the camera. ;) :)

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

Marcus, you've totally beat me to the punch on that one! I was thinking along the exact same lines, with using the DP. The one thing I'm still not sure of is the size issue. On this particular project, I have a pair of doors, which are about 50" long, making it a bit harder to steady on the DP. BUT, as I type this, something else occurred to me: Would it be prudent for a guy to just take the intended hinge-side stile and bore it *before* assembly? :confused: I always dry-fit everything first, anyway, so I'd already know which stile is going on which side. Hmmmm....Might be the no-cost solution! Thanks Marcus! You've got the money-saving juices flowing! :cool:

[Mark Bachler]

a 1 3/8" forestner bit works fine for 35mm.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

When I get to the door stage of my current project, I'll be headed to Rockler for that jig. Saw it last month in an ad. I already have their adjustable shelf pin jig and love it!

[Kent Cori]

Marcus,

I have a couple of 12" x 20" doors to drill later this week. Your suggestion is perfect for my needs. Thanks! :)

[Robert Goodwin]

When I did my shop cabinets, I did not have a drill press, so I chucked up my hand drill and went at it. Boy, that teaches you not to change the angle of the drill while cutting :eek: . It worked, but the drill press moved up a few notches on the new tool priority list. As far as accuracy goes, they all fit and the doors line up properly.

[Jamie Buxton]

John --

I use a plunge router. I made a template which is just a piece of plywood with a 35 mm hole in it, plus a cleat to set the distance of the hole from the edge of the door. The router gets a pattern-making bit -- a straight bit with a top-mounted ball bearing.

There's two good things about this, compared to the 35 mm bit in the drill press. First, you can use it on big doors. Second, you can use it even when your door frame is a little thin. There's no drill spur to go through the front of the door.

Jamie

[Esteban Lamadrid]

Check out this month issue of Wood magazine. There is a good and short article about installing 35 mm hinges. BTW that suggestion by Bachler for 1 3/8" forestner bit is excellent.