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Chris Hanson
06-27-2008, 10:39 PM
I've been slowly "getting to know" my newly acquired , gently used Universal M360. I'm having trouble getting the computer controlled air assist working. I connected it all up according to manual and fired it up. When the compressor (in both auto and manual modes) would kick on, it would run a bit and then the safety valve would begin to release air and then the fuse would pop. The first time this happened the pressure valve showed pressure and would obviously plunge when the safety valve released. Then it stopped registering any pressure at all. I assumed that something must be plugged so I started looking. The dessicant unit checked out and I discovered the filter was plugged with a fine white sand. I'm thinking it was silica dust from the dessicant. I cleaned out the plastic bowl and blew out/washed the flter. Now I have air flowing freely out of the compressor but it appears the inlet is blocked. If I try to turn it on via the printer driver I hear the solenoid click but I can't tell if it is stuck or what. I tried calling Tech Support but they had no idea what could be wrong.

The previous owner said it was tested out and working when it was packed and shipped by the regional rep. My guess is the dust had a chance to really "settle in" from the vibration of shipping.

I live on an island in AK so the turn around time for parts, etc is different than for those who live "down south".

Anyone ever experience this? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Chris

Bob Cole
06-27-2008, 11:53 PM
I have the electronic air assist on mine and it has a pressure gauge where the inlet is on the laser. Does yours have this and if so, does it register anything?

Did you also purchase the ULS compressor with the components to connect to the computer controlled portion? I have a regular compressor and found it much easier just to use an on/off valve when I need air-assist.

Chris Hanson
06-28-2008, 10:13 AM
Bob,

It is the entire set up from Universal (I bought the laser used and it came with it.)The fillter was plugged when it arrived but I've resolved that.

I have air up to the end of the hose but when I connect it to the air control box on laser. No pressure is indicated on the valve.
Does yours have both high and low pressure adjustments? (they appear to be simple needle valves) I suppose both could be stuck shut.

I've pretty much tried everything I can think of and am getting frustrated.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

Bob Cole
06-30-2008, 2:20 AM
I think I remember that the pressure guage won't register unless the laser is running a job with the software setup to "turn on" the air-assist.

You should still hear the air in the laser compartment for optics 1. The air is still allowed to go to these optics whether you have air assist turned on or not (even with the machine off, the air is not restricted). If you are not getting air even to these optics, you may have a clog somewhere.

Mike Mackenzie
06-30-2008, 1:18 PM
Chris,

Bob is correct the system needs to be running in order to set the pressure that comes through the cone.

Send a file a black rectangle and a red rectangle both filled and run it in raster mode. Send them over at 0 power 20 speed.

Set the black to LOW air and the red to HIGH air in the driver. On the system itself the AIR should be set to AUTO.

Leave the top door open and start the job you should here the solenoid open and it should register pressure on the Gage. You should set the LOW pressure to 5-7 PSI and then set the HIGH to 10-12 PSI. You can put your hand under the cone to see if Air is coming through the cone with the top door open there will be no laser firing only the red diode to be safe take a piece of paper first and place it under the cone while it is running once you verify no laser burning then check with your finger.

If the air is coming through the cone it is working correctly If not then you have to trace backward to see where the blockage is.

It is very important to be sure that air is coming through the cone before you send any laser power through it. Remember always have air coming through the cone once the cone is attached.

Chris Hanson
07-01-2008, 1:08 AM
Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Bob Cole
07-31-2008, 1:57 AM
I think I may have fried my 2.0 lens. I don't do a lot of cutting but decided to try the Eiffel tower. I thought would be good to get the cone and start the job. Verified I had air-assist going (or at least I thought it was going) and started the job. I watched it and everything appeared to be normal. I noticed however, that the laser wasn't cutting like it should so I shut down the job and took out the optics. BIG black spot. I promptly shouted a few choice words and started cleaning the best I could but know it is drastically going to reduce the performance.

I investigated further and found that the settings on the laser for the air-assist was set to "off" instead of auto.

So if anyone knows the best way to replace the 2.0 optics for a ULS, let me know.

Scott Shepherd
07-31-2008, 7:21 AM
Are you sure it's fried? I've had that happen too where the lens got a black goo baked on. After repeated soaking and cleaning in the lens cleaner, it finally came clean. In the end, under a magnifying glass, there wasn't any sign it ever happened, so you might be okay. The first few times, it wouldn't budge, but I kept soaking it and gently cleaning it, and it finally broke free.

Give that a try before you go shopping for a new lens. Hopefully you're alright.

Rob Bosworth
07-31-2008, 11:22 AM
Bob, if you think the lens is baked, you might not have anything to lose. Buy some reagent grade acetone. (Reagent grade is very pure with very little water in it.) Then put a few drops on the "burnt surface of your lens. Use a Q-Tip and give it little cleaning. Remember to keep rolling the Q-Tip while you are rubbing the lens. Do not use the Q-Tip too long. Throw it away and repeat the process. The reagent grade acetone is pretty aggressive. Also, keep the acetone away from any sparks, flame, because it is very flammable. It does evaporate fast.

The systems manufacturer's have come down with their optics pricing. If your lens is baked, you can always order a new lens and mount it yourself. You will probably have to break the old lens to get it out of the holder. Then make sure the mounting surface on the optic mount is clean of glue, sealant, and broken optic pieces. Then you can use either epoxy or silicone sealant/ glue, and remount the lens. Do not touch the surface of the lens with your bare hands. Apply whatever glue you are going to use very sparingly. A little dab will do ya. Mount the optic in the lens holder so that the flat side of the lens is pointed down.

Good luck.

Chris Hanson
07-31-2008, 12:08 PM
Just an update on my air assist issues. The regional Universal rep flew up 3 weeks ago to make sure the laser was set up properly, show me basic maintenance and try and diagnose my air-assist issues.

Prior to his arrival I tried to work my way from the compressor, through the dessicant system, the filter to the air control box on the laser to find where the problem was. What I found was fine silica dust from the dessicant unit had plugged the filter. I cleaned it and got air up to that point but it still seemed blocked at the air control box.

What Chris found was that one of the solenoids was bad in the box and that two of the small air diffusers on the XY carriage were plugged. He sent the air control box back to Universal for repairs and I'm awaiting it and the replacement air diffuser's arrival. Hopefully, this will solve my issues.

I didn't think it would take this long to get them back but sometimes shipping to Alaska (especially on our island due to the limited number of commercial carriers) can be an adventure.

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.

Chris

Bob Cole
07-31-2008, 1:17 PM
I haven't tried soaking it so will give that a try.

I looked around on the net and I found the 2.0 lens already glued to the holder for $200. The entire thing is something like $500. So, I will definitely be soaking it.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Chris,

Sorry to hear about your air issues. We have the same ULS rep so good to hear he is taking care you.

Mike Mackenzie
08-01-2008, 2:31 PM
Bob,

A couple of words of caution.

First if you soak the lens in acetone it will come out of the bracket, You just want to use the q-tip method. Do not soak it.

If you are going to replace just the lens "Then soak the lens and bracket in acetone overnight this will clean the glues and remove the lens from the bracket.

Once you have the replacement lens be sure that the dome is to the top place it into the bracket and use 4 drops of super glue Gel. Be very careful when applying the glue so you do not get any onto the optic it self. you will just put the drops into the four recessed corners. You must let it dry it a well ventilated area for 24 hours before putting it back onto the plate and using it.

We do it this way all the time.

Bob Cole
08-03-2008, 11:47 PM
I didn't have any of the acetone you mentioned so will have to look for it. I've been trying to clean with the regular optical cleaner and it does look better but have a long way to go to get it completely clean. I'm not sure it will come completely clean. I've been using my 1.5 so have been able to do the jobs but like the 2.0 lens for most of the things I do.

Do any of you have suggestions for where a good place to purchase optics?

Pete Thomas
08-05-2008, 10:29 PM
I purchased a 2" lens from www.oemoptics.com after I put a crack in my lens. There is a 2" lens there for $180.

-pete

Bob Cole
08-06-2008, 5:34 PM
Thanks Pete. I will take a look.