Glueing up a long miter

[Rusty Elam]

I am making a hope chest for my son and daughter in law that has 17" long mitered corners (frame and panel) and I am wondering the best way to clamp them up. I have seen them taped but I really wonder if that is enough pressure even though there is a lot of glue area? How would you do it?

Rusty

[Ben Grunow]

Not really the answer to your question but the lock miter is the best joint here as there is more glue area and clamping is easy (only one way).

I might make a couple pieces with 90 deg cutouts to clamp the two boards together in (like small framing square).

[Doug Shepard]

I'm thinking the slot for the panel will already be in the non-mitered edges? If that's the case, I'd go ahead and blue tape clamp the miters, then slip in some splines dry for alignment and dry assemble the 4 corner sections into a tall square box. Then throw some band clamps on it.

[Peter Quinn]

I have used tape miters in 110 degree miters in 5/4 white oak over 10' long. If you set them up correctly they apply more than enough pressure and zero clamps are necessary as the wood itself becomes the clamp. Otherwise I recommend some form of alignment aid, like a spline, biscuits, locking miter or such.

I hope you will try a tape miter on some test pieces, then try to break the results. Good luck.

I usually run two layers of fiber reinforced packing tape parallel to the glue joint, then run 6" pieces every 8" to 10" perpendicular to the joint like a butterfly suture. Apply pressure to adhere the tape with a block of wood or a stiff J-roller. Seeing is believing. Tape it tightly face up, flip the whole assembly glue adequately but not excessively. Pull one board up and run cellophane shrink wrap or tape to hold in place while the glue dries. So easy even I can do it.

[Phil Thien]

+1 Peter's advice. The tape has the added benefit of eliminating glue squeeze-out on the good (outside) surface of my boxes.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's a way to put clamp pressure on angled joints like that...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=14650&highlight=gluing

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks guys,
I went ahead and glued up one of the corners and used tape alone making a hinge and then wrapping the corner in several spots, it worked very well with no gaps or lines. I really wanted this piece to be perfect and that is why I was concerned about the tape putting enough pressure to get a seamless miter but when I took the tape off it came out great.
I am letting this corner dry until this afternoon and test the strength before glueing up the other 3 corners.
I used blue painters tape and it worked good but I like the idea of using the clear packing tape where you can see but I wonder if packing tape leaves any residue on the piece since it is so much stronger adhesive?

Thanks Rusty

[glenn bradley]

If you have strength problems (and I hope you don't) you could add stopped splines.

[Bond Turner]

I would use pocket screws as my clamps in the back if you have a way to hide them.

[Jeff Duncan]

You shouldn't have any problems with strength, I've done many glue-ups this way over the years and it's just a tried and true technique.
The one place where you may need some additional clamping is the last joint. Clamping miters is easy b/c when you bring them to 90 it clamps itself. But if your clamping 4 corners one joint at a time, eventually you'll have a joint that's not pressured into place. For that last joint you'll have to glue first and then use the tape to manually pull the two parts together. Having a band clamp ready wouldn't hurt either just in case.
Packing tape will usually leave a little residue but it comes off pretty easily. Just wipe with a little DNA or Lacquer thinner and your good to go.
good luck,
JeffD